Grooves in the plaster HELP

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benanderon129

New Member
Hi everyone, looking for a bit of help. We have had someone in to plaster an extension we built and on the ceiling, there are "grooves" where it looks like the edge of the towel has been when he was plastering. There are quite a few of these and they have come up more when we have painted the ceiling white and have the spot lights fitted.

We have been told these grooves can be filled and sanded but I was looking for advice on if this was the best way to fix these and what materials to buy. Is there a special filler I need or any other materials that could resolve this and make these grooves disappear so I can paint over the filler (or whatever you guys suggest) I have tried you tube but I can only find ones to fix cracks and holes etc.
 
I'll probably get bashed for trying to help, but you did at least post your question in the DIY section of the forum, so here goes:


The economical way would be to buy a 10kg bag of Easi Fill



Apply it with a plastering spatula (approximately 400mm-500mm. Putz, Refina, Nela, etc. are all decent brands. Cheapo brands tend to have uneven blades so they're a false economy), or a 10" taping knife from a DIY store, or a plastering trowel. A decent spat will only cost around £15.

There may be some shrinkage as the filler dries, so you'll need to compensate by applying a slightly thicker layer than the desired end result. But do it neatly, in long smooth strokes, or you'll cause unnecessary extra work for yourself (gnarly filler to sand flat). When you've finished applying all your filler, it should look 80+% as neat and smooth as you intend it to look after sanding!

Mix your filler in manageable amounts, or you'll find it goes off before you've finished applying it all.

When it's had at least 24 hours to thoroughly dry (depends how thick you put it on), you can sand it (don't use an orbital sander - use a long sanding block, so you bridge the peaks you're trying to hide. Yes, it's more work to sand manually but the problem with an electric sander is that it'll remove filler where you don't want it removed, unless you are a skilled user) - expect lots of fine dust everywhere, so use decorators dust sheets and wear a decent face mask. If you blow your nose and see loads of white dust in your snot, then your dust mask is not protecting you - sounds obvious, but you'd be amazed how many thousands of muppets can't grasp this simple concept. Don't use anything coarser than 120 or you'll start adding more lines to your ceiling. For the final sand, make sure you use P180 or finer. The dust will settle everywhere, but if you don't have professional sanding and extraction gear, then you don't have much choice.

When it's sanded, you can paint it with some diluted paint, and then continue with whatever paint was previously used on your ceiling (probably vinyl mat emulsion).


Don't expect miraculous results, but it should look significantly better than it did before, as long as you apply and sand taking care to bridge the unwanted peaks with the spat and the sanding block. If you ignore this and just fill it and sand it willy-nilly, then it'll look just as pants afterwards as it did before - perhaps even worse.
 
Last edited:
I'll probably get bashed for trying to help, but you did at least post your question in the DIY section of the forum, so here goes:


The economical way would be to buy a 10kg bag of Easi Fill



Apply it with a plastering spatula (approximately 400mm-500mm. Putz, Refina, Nela, etc. are all decent brands. Cheapo brands tend to have uneven blades so they're a false economy), or a 10" taping knife from a DIY store, or a plastering trowel. A decent spat will only cost around £15.

There may be some shrinkage as the filler dries, so you'll need to compensate by applying a slightly thicker layer than the desired end result. But do it neatly, in long smooth strokes, or you'll cause unnecessary extra work for yourself (gnarly filler to sand flat). When you've finished applying all your filler, it should look 80+% as neat and smooth as you intend it to look after sanding!

Mix your filler in manageable amounts, or you'll find it goes off before you've finished applying it all.

When it's had at least 24 hours to thoroughly dry (depends how thick you put it on), you can sand it (don't use an orbital sander - use a long sanding block, so you bridge the peaks you're trying to hide. Yes, it's more work to sand manually but the problem with an electric sander is that it'll remove filler where you don't want it removed, unless you are a skilled user) - expect lots of fine dust everywhere, so use decorators dust sheets and wear a decent face mask. If you blow your nose and see loads of white dust in your snot, then your dust mask is not protecting you - sounds obvious, but you'd be amazed how many thousands of muppets can't grasp this simple concept. Don't use anything coarser than 120 or you'll start adding more lines to your ceiling. For the final sand, make sure you use P180 or finer. The dust will settle everywhere, but if you don't have professional sanding and extraction gear, then you don't have much choice.

When it's sanded, you can paint it with some diluted paint, and then continue with whatever paint was previously used on your ceiling (probably vinyl mat emulsion).


Don't expect miraculous results, but it should look significantly better than it did before, as long as you apply and sand taking care to bridge the unwanted peaks with the spat and the sanding block. If you ignore this and just fill it and sand it willy-nilly, then it'll look just as pants afterwards as it did before - perhaps even worse.
I think knaufs fill and finish is better then easy fil
 
I'll probably get bashed for trying to help, but you did at least post your question in the DIY section of the forum, so here goes:


The economical way would be to buy a 10kg bag of Easi Fill



Apply it with a plastering spatula (approximately 400mm-500mm. Putz, Refina, Nela, etc. are all decent brands. Cheapo brands tend to have uneven blades so they're a false economy), or a 10" taping knife from a DIY store, or a plastering trowel. A decent spat will only cost around £15.

There may be some shrinkage as the filler dries, so you'll need to compensate by applying a slightly thicker layer than the desired end result. But do it neatly, in long smooth strokes, or you'll cause unnecessary extra work for yourself (gnarly filler to sand flat). When you've finished applying all your filler, it should look 80+% as neat and smooth as you intend it to look after sanding!

Mix your filler in manageable amounts, or you'll find it goes off before you've finished applying it all.

When it's had at least 24 hours to thoroughly dry (depends how thick you put it on), you can sand it (don't use an orbital sander - use a long sanding block, so you bridge the peaks you're trying to hide. Yes, it's more work to sand manually but the problem with an electric sander is that it'll remove filler where you don't want it removed, unless you are a skilled user) - expect lots of fine dust everywhere, so use decorators dust sheets and wear a decent face mask. If you blow your nose and see loads of white dust in your snot, then your dust mask is not protecting you - sounds obvious, but you'd be amazed how many thousands of muppets can't grasp this simple concept. Don't use anything coarser than 120 or you'll start adding more lines to your ceiling. For the final sand, make sure you use P180 or finer. The dust will settle everywhere, but if you don't have professional sanding and extraction gear, then you don't have much choice.

When it's sanded, you can paint it with some diluted paint, and then continue with whatever paint was previously used on your ceiling (probably vinyl mat emulsion).


Don't expect miraculous results, but it should look significantly better than it did before, as long as you apply and sand taking care to bridge the unwanted peaks with the spat and the sanding block. If you ignore this and just fill it and sand it willy-nilly, then it'll look just as pants afterwards as it did before - perhaps even worse.
Lovely
 
I'll probably get bashed for trying to help, but you did at least post your question in the DIY section of the forum, so here goes:


The economical way would be to buy a 10kg bag of Easi Fill



Apply it with a plastering spatula (approximately 400mm-500mm. Putz, Refina, Nela, etc. are all decent brands. Cheapo brands tend to have uneven blades so they're a false economy), or a 10" taping knife from a DIY store, or a plastering trowel. A decent spat will only cost around £15.

There may be some shrinkage as the filler dries, so you'll need to compensate by applying a slightly thicker layer than the desired end result. But do it neatly, in long smooth strokes, or you'll cause unnecessary extra work for yourself (gnarly filler to sand flat). When you've finished applying all your filler, it should look 80+% as neat and smooth as you intend it to look after sanding!

Mix your filler in manageable amounts, or you'll find it goes off before you've finished applying it all.

When it's had at least 24 hours to thoroughly dry (depends how thick you put it on), you can sand it (don't use an orbital sander - use a long sanding block, so you bridge the peaks you're trying to hide. Yes, it's more work to sand manually but the problem with an electric sander is that it'll remove filler where you don't want it removed, unless you are a skilled user) - expect lots of fine dust everywhere, so use decorators dust sheets and wear a decent face mask. If you blow your nose and see loads of white dust in your snot, then your dust mask is not protecting you - sounds obvious, but you'd be amazed how many thousands of muppets can't grasp this simple concept. Don't use anything coarser than 120 or you'll start adding more lines to your ceiling. For the final sand, make sure you use P180 or finer. The dust will settle everywhere, but if you don't have professional sanding and extraction gear, then you don't have much choice.

When it's sanded, you can paint it with some diluted paint, and then continue with whatever paint was previously used on your ceiling (probably vinyl mat emulsion).


Don't expect miraculous results, but it should look significantly better than it did before, as long as you apply and sand taking care to bridge the unwanted peaks with the spat and the sanding block. If you ignore this and just fill it and sand it willy-nilly, then it'll look just as pants afterwards as it did before - perhaps even worse.
Even OP ain’t gonna read all that x
 
Groove Is In The Heart 90S GIF
 
I'll probably get bashed for trying to help, but you did at least post your question in the DIY section of the forum, so here goes:


The economical way would be to buy a 10kg bag of Easi Fill



Apply it with a plastering spatula (approximately 400mm-500mm. Putz, Refina, Nela, etc. are all decent brands. Cheapo brands tend to have uneven blades so they're a false economy), or a 10" taping knife from a DIY store, or a plastering trowel. A decent spat will only cost around £15.

There may be some shrinkage as the filler dries, so you'll need to compensate by applying a slightly thicker layer than the desired end result. But do it neatly, in long smooth strokes, or you'll cause unnecessary extra work for yourself (gnarly filler to sand flat). When you've finished applying all your filler, it should look 80+% as neat and smooth as you intend it to look after sanding!

Mix your filler in manageable amounts, or you'll find it goes off before you've finished applying it all.

When it's had at least 24 hours to thoroughly dry (depends how thick you put it on), you can sand it (don't use an orbital sander - use a long sanding block, so you bridge the peaks you're trying to hide. Yes, it's more work to sand manually but the problem with an electric sander is that it'll remove filler where you don't want it removed, unless you are a skilled user) - expect lots of fine dust everywhere, so use decorators dust sheets and wear a decent face mask. If you blow your nose and see loads of white dust in your snot, then your dust mask is not protecting you - sounds obvious, but you'd be amazed how many thousands of muppets can't grasp this simple concept. Don't use anything coarser than 120 or you'll start adding more lines to your ceiling. For the final sand, make sure you use P180 or finer. The dust will settle everywhere, but if you don't have professional sanding and extraction gear, then you don't have much choice.

When it's sanded, you can paint it with some diluted paint, and then continue with whatever paint was previously used on your ceiling (probably vinyl mat emulsion).


Don't expect miraculous results, but it should look significantly better than it did before, as long as you apply and sand taking care to bridge the unwanted peaks with the spat and the sanding block. If you ignore this and just fill it and sand it willy-nilly, then it'll look just as pants afterwards as it did before - perhaps even worse.
Thanks, mate. At least someone in a forum is helpful. That makes a lot of sense so I will look into Easy FIll and also Knaufs FIll.

@Stewie03 - I will get some later. I had the site light on it yesterday and you can see a load of those grooves. The guy who came in to fix the grooves has out a bass layer on the paint, guessing it's some sort of PVA solution or something, but then the plaster wasn't sticking to it.
 
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