Garage door Opening -- plastering over gap between lintels?

[boatbuilder]

I have a newly built double garage with two 8 foot 6 door openings separated by a 3 foot wide bit of wall in the middle. Its 4 inch block cavity wall construction and the lintels are 8x4 precast concrete lintels (heavy brutes!)

My questions are -
1. How can I close the cavity on the underside of the lintels so that it can be rendered over? Also how to attach corner beads to the lintel?

2. Is it enough to just scud the sides and underneath of the lintels with sand and cement 2:1 or should I use an SBR slurry?

3. I am a bit concerned that the render will crack around the top corners of the openings, especially between the two doors because there is only one course of six inch high blocks (soap bars) on top of the lintels and the wallplate sits on top of them. Also the fact that the two openings are side by side with a 3 foot wall between them is probably giving more reason for render to crack there. Is there anything I can do about this? Or is it inevitable that it will crack following the line of the lintel ends?

Thanks a lot for your help, great forum!:RpS_thumbsup:

 

[warriorupnorth]

Welcome to the forum, ..I like boats

 

[plaster man]

what i do is shove some expanding metal in the cavity then get a piece of wood wide enoughe to cover the cavity fill the middle with mortar then push the lot up to the lintel then prop it there give it a few taps with a hammer so it leavels out strip next day u may need a hand to do it

 

[plaster man]

Welcome to the forum, ..I like boats

i like drug boats

 

[Arti]

I like gravy boats

 

[S a plastering]

Just expanding foam of treated timber in the cavity let it set then screw eml over the cavity
Then sbr slurry on the underside the scratch over

 

[boatbuilder]

Thanks for the replies; I picked up some riblath at the weekend - would that do to cover the cavity? Presume I will have to somehow drill and plug it to attach it to the underneath of the lintels... I was thinking of drilling for plastic plugs and putting in screws with big washers to hold the riblath on.. Does this sound about right? I know maybe the riblath is overkill?

 

[johniosaif]

That would be fine, you could of Infilled before the rib lath too so nothing falls out, loads of options really.

 

[warriorupnorth]

Or screw aquapanel over the gap and render v

 

[boatbuilder]

Just expanding foam of treated timber in the cavity let it set then screw eml over the cavity
Then sbr slurry on the underside the scratch over

Not sure that I understand?

 

[johniosaif]

Not sure that I understand?

That's two of you,

 

[S a plastering]

Not sure that I understand?

It doesn't matter surely you posted this in April unless its not been done yet

 

[boatbuilder]

Ummm lets just say I'm a slow worker! :RpS_blushing:

Job isn't done yet - just doing this in my spare time amongst other things and saving up the pennies to buy the bits and pieces needed.

So this evening I went the expanding foam route - I cut a wedge shaped strip off a sheet of Kingspan insulation and glued it in the cavity with expanding foam. The reason I was saying I wasn't sure about your answer madmonk was that you said "Just expanding foam of treated timber". I presume that you meant "Just expanding foam OR treated timber"?
I may swap the riblath for a roll of eml and use that instead; probably cheaper anyway plus I need some eml anyway for rendering over the wallplate on the inside face of the wall.
Haven't picked up fixings for attaching the eml to the lintels yet - I can imagine the blank look on the local builder's provider's face when I ask for stainless screws and stainless washers. :RpS_thumbsup:

Thanks again everyone for your help, I'm off the introduce myself elsewhere on the forum.