floating over cavity closers?

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in theory napper but if its got no sockets in it etc ive seen the odd block come through my roughing ;D
 
ok lets say i take all the render off in a room and its red brick....... sometimes if u use s&c at 11mm it just falls off so am i better using a thiner scratch and top it with a thicker floating coat of s&c or another backing plaster?
 
sorry mate im thinking of blockwork...........if the walls need dubbing out then scratch it..........youre better off doing a thicker scratch coat than topcoat .....it makes the top coat easier too rule and its less likely too crack
 
agree with the metal mesh lathing as sed above,u can usually tuck the mesh behind the window frame and then overlap the plastic cavity closers and where the join is to the blockwork/brickwork justt tack this with ur clout nails . the old firm i used to work for always do this and have had no problems over 20 yrs...the guy i work with now prefers to dot and dab them if if there is board on the job ,plus its much easier as u dont have to wait arou8nd to float and u kno ur heads arnt guna fall out at 3 oclock as ur about to leave off the job.personally either way works just as good as the other.
 
What does one use to affix the plasterboard to the plastic cavity closers, normal dry wall adhesive or tube of no nail type stuff, would some EML screwed on first aid the adhesion ?
 
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