floating over cavity closers?

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napper83

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Done 19 rooms no problem, now some other spread turns up refusing to float the reveals saying they will crack on the cavity closers ??? and that they all need to be dabbed, now our work is gettin questioned as the gaffers aint got a clue fecking right pissed off
 
aslong as there is 5mm of hardwall over them you should be alright the bloke probably is crap at reveals
 
done loads mate never had probs hes acting a t**t to try and get them dabbed for him ...........go along with it ;D
 
ive been on jobs where they wont allow you to dab boards on reveals.this bloke probaly struggles to rule his reveals and cant get them square.which ive seen some do.
 
cheers lads, he can do reveals one of the best spreads i know tbh but i didnt know who was right an cos he been spoutin this our work has been questioned. cheers for that info grand ;)

u got any idea what McDermotts are calling themselves now? got a couple of lads thinking of goin back down to london
 
Last float and set job i done was for dennes and all the reveals were dot and dab part of there spec aparently ,would have made life easy if the sticker wasnt a t**t !
 
Cavity closers are great for bricklayers but not for spreads especialy with SC it will crack maybe with a wide scrim over will help personaly i dot and dab them no comebacks.
Lucius.
 
I agree with Lucius eventually it will crack using plastic behind plaster in contruction is a idea of an idiot , trouble is there so interested in thermal values these days they are forgetting common sense .
 
simplybesty said:
we dab if we can but if we have to render them we mesh over the reveal with the same mesh we use o outsides .
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That's exactly what I was going to do on my next job, should only add a few minutes over a whole house.
 
dabbing works a treat, all you have to do is bring your render out to the boards and then thincoat bead. most people will dab the heads anyway so why not the whole window/door.
 
simplybesty said:
dabbing works a treat, all you have to do is bring your render out to the boards and then thincoat bead. most people will dab the heads anyway so why not the whole window/door.
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Do most people dab the heads? If so why, I've never found the need to dab any reveals.
What do most of you guys do?
 
andy, its less hassel. I remember the days of having to put plaster in the render to so it stiffens up on the heads also the way lintels are chucked up these days it just makes things quicker, you dont have to parge out and then gauge off, less mess and quicker but all to there own but i expect some book reading so called expert will come on here telling us we shouldnt dab them because he says so.
 
allways dab the soffets and reveals easier to get square, fill the edge out and its easier to nail skim beads on.
 
I may have to give it a go, I'm always open to try different ways the only concern I have is that most of the UPVC frames I work up against are really narrow compared with the old wooden ones and by dabbing out the reveals there would be very little frame left showing, but then again if the whole house was D&D then that's how they would be anyway so perhaps I'm worrying about nothing, I just like things to look good.
When you D&D the reveals do you always use the paper bound edge to rule off to?
 
i dont see the point its easier to stick 3 angle beads thant cut an stick boards in my oppinion an then you dont need to bother about skim beads andif you cant get them square your a chancer ;D ;D
 
essexandy said:
I may have to give it a go, I'm always open to try different ways the only concern I have is that most of the UPVC frames I work up against are really narrow compared with the old wooden ones and by dabbing out the reveals there would be very little frame left showing, but then again if the whole house was D&D then that's how they would be anyway so perhaps I'm worrying about nothing, I just like things to look good.
When you D&D the reveals do you always use the paper bound edge to rule off to?
Click to expand...


It helps if you can use the bound edge mate but its not essential , sometimes if you use a cut edge you get a bit of suction from underneath the bead but you prolly know that .
 
is this thread about new work...... also does any1 here use square's to rule of revels when doing reskims
 
if the existing is miles out i'll give the customer the option of squaring it off (for an extra charge) otherwise, i'll go with whats there..
 
Before cavity closers catnic lintols were always a prob so i would always try and get the brickies to chuck something on the soffitts just to give you a start.
Lucias.
 
Dude I've done a lot of free hand floating as well as dot dabbing reveals;

Ultimatley you need to be able to crack on with whatever method and material you have available on the day but I'd say dabbing is marginally better because:

1. You only have one setting time (of the adhesive or bonding) then chucking some skim beads on
2. You get perfect straight angles and lines if you dab them on properly
3. If you aren't proficient at freehand plaster reveals you're going to be blundering around looking like a lemon

I'd say floating with lightweight plaster is slower because;

1. You have to muck-on the thick coat beads and let them set, then apply then float the reveals and let them set
2. You have to cut back the thick coat beads ready for skimmig which makes a mess and neads clearing up
3. They can crack and fail to bond to the plastic - especially if you use hardwall

Hardwall is for high suction backgrounds - which cavity closers aint. It should be low suction bonding being used to my knowledge. I've seen hardwall come off plasterboard in clumps and boards have got more suction than closers....go figure....


(Don't get me wrong mind, I'd make do with hardwall and maybe some glue if push came to shove. I aint no product snob but I know what i reckons is best)

Best ting,
SPREDZ
 
ok.... sorry to bring this back up but i get what your talking about now... took me a while as ive only ever done patchin. when boarding the reveals are you looking to have a 5mm over hang and only use the square edge off the board or can use the middle if you cut with a straight edge. cheers
 
hardwall should be around 11mm so your boards should overhang by this unless there is anything on the wall which would determine your thickness ie conduit, sockets etc etc
 
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