Fitting really fancy Coving

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Freerider

Freerider

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Alright s**t heads, just got a job fitting 16metres of the fanciest coving Ive ever been asked to fit, its the big s**t you see in stately homes and probably fuckingham Palace, about 8inches deep etc/ etc/

Do I cut and fit as normal? as its plaster coving and not the high density polystyrene stuff do I use the same plaster coving adhesive? I imagine its very heavy so any tips appreciated, oh and I am fitting in on my own, which doesnt help but I cant afford to price for a lab at the minute, desperate for the work etc/

Cheers guys!
 
You need to screw it aswell and you cant afford to pay a labourer to fit the fanciest coving youve ever been asked to fit, its the big s**t you see in stately homes and probably fuckingham Palace LOL give your head a shake they can afford it so price for it and if you drop it does your price cover that?
 
Is it facy shaped s**t, cos you may have to allow for making good if the walls are out, which they will be.
 
flynnyman said:
You need to screw it aswell and you cant afford to pay a labourer to fit the fanciest coving youve ever been asked to fit, its the big s**t you see in stately homes and probably fuckingham Palace LOL give your head a shake they can afford it so price for it and if you drop it does your price cover that?
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Its the rich people who are tight as arseholes mate.. they wont pay it regardless! but cheers anyway ;)

As far as the walls being out, ofcourse they will be, they always are, making good is expected!
 
A company up here called George Rome do all that traditional stuff. They take latex moulds and reproduce the cornice at their workshop. Bring it back to the site, fit and point it. Totally flawless and looks the b*ll***s. Very, very expensive. Kerrrrrrching!!!!
 
Btw it was a slight exageration about fuckingham palace.. Lol its just fancy and they house is bigger than my flat, hows that sound ;)
 
Ive done small egg and dart before yes, and not all 90degree angles, some 30s and 45s and it come out nice.. just did it the same as you would normal coving/cornice but it was the high density polystyrene s**t which made it a lot easier to handle on me own etc/ and didnt need fixing off with screws.

As its not a run and the pattern is quite fancy, on the externals and internals do I need to make the join a symmetrical pattern, as in, if the cut ends on half a patter, so I then have to cut the other piece on half a pattern so in the corner they look like its a continuous piece running round? if that makes sense.. if this is the case, how do I then go about keeping that going round the room surely at some point itll run out of sync and on a join the patterns wont line up correctly?

I feel like telling em to stick it now, she was a miserable f**k*r as it is! always are, tight as a ducks arse and talk down to ya.
 
Freerider said:
Ive done small egg and dart before yes, and not all 90degree angles, some 30s and 45s and it come out nice.. just did it the same as you would normal coving/cornice but it was the high density polystyrene s**t which made it a lot easier to handle on me own etc/ and didnt need fixing off with screws.

As its not a run and the pattern is quite fancy, on the externals and internals do I need to make the join a symmetrical pattern, as in, if the cut ends on half a patter, so I then have to cut the other piece on half a pattern so in the corner they look like its a continuous piece running round? if that makes sense.. if this is the case, how do I then go about keeping that going round the room surely at some point itll run out of sync and on a join the patterns wont line up correctly?

I feel like telling em to stick it now, she was a miserable f**k*r as it is! always are, tight as a ducks arse and talk down to ya.
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Yes the pattern should follow around the internal and external angles, but as you say at some point this wont be possible. Chose either an internal tucked out of sight as much as possible or the internal above the entrance to the room so that as you enter you don't catch sight of the iffy joint. You really want to sticking and making good with casting plaster.
 
Im running a cornice in-situ tommorow that should be fun im planning on makin the running mould and running a 3 metre length tomorrow bet im pulling my hair out lol
 
flynnyman said:
Im running a cornice in-situ tommorow that should be fun im planning on makin the running mould and running a 3 metre length tomorrow bet im pulling my hair out lol
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Nice interesting work for a change eh, I'm hoping to be doing be running an external cornice before to long, it's going to be over 500mm deep.
 
hey freerider,my old dear,has just had her living room done with the big fancy cornices. defo need 2 bods. watched em in action. like flynny said they screw em up & these guys usedhigh strength tile adhesive instead of coving adhesive. when they filled in butts n joints tops n bottoms with the plaster of paris they did em with car body fillers.
 
8 inch deep and you're gonna try fitting it on your tod? Good luck mate. If you're not having someone with you then you need a few pins or something similar to hold it up while you're the other end. Get plenty of casting plaster as andy said. Make sure the stuffs dry too. Last 2 we did it was soaking and just clogged up on the saw. Not nice.
 
The pattern should mirror itself in internal and external corners. Butt the lengths together. Use tile adhesive or cove adhesive (white if possible) but definately use screws (watch out for electric cables!). It is easier with two people but more than do-able on your own. Use nails to help you hold the lengths up until screwed in place. You may need a sharp pad saw to get the joints tight. You can use casting plaster for the joints but this goes hard really quick. I use easy fill joints as you can get a few joints done at a time and then shave it back as required with a busk and small tool.
You may have to make your own mitre box too.
Hope this helps
 
chalkline ceiling line and wall, mark and measure joists, cut your lengths, countersink for screws at joist measurement, key the back of it and ceiling/wall, adhesive on back,place, screw in ceiling, nail under the bottom of cornice to prevent movement, clean angles, do your stop ends, stop up and jobs a guden.
 
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