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In all honestly I think @essexandy way is a good idea,the amount of beads I’ve levelled on thermalites etc with browning hardwall and s+c back in the day, will deffo give it a go if I ever get to float and set again,what was the blockwork like Andy when fixing them was it all plumb and level and not like the shite that gets churned out today
 
Crown staples are best on plasterboard. Brad nails on over skim. Cordless brad gun to fire them in straight through the bead.
 
In all honestly I think @essexandy way is a good idea,the amount of beads I’ve levelled on thermalites etc with browning hardwall and s+c back in the day, will deffo give it a go if I ever get to float and set again,what was the blockwork like Andy when fixing them was it all plumb and level and not like the shite that gets churned out today
The blockwork was better than average, because it was a very unusual site, where the owner (one man) wanted things done correctly and was hell bent on winning NHBC awards.
 
The blockwork was better than average, because it was a very unusual site, where the owner (one man) wanted things done correctly and was hell bent on winning NHBC awards.
I haven’t heard of the Nhbc in years if only every site manager was working to that level of degree on every build you wouldn’t get the crap you do today,I was just curious when nailing and putting staples into the beads was they pretty much level and straight soon as they was on
 
I haven’t heard of the Nhbc in years if only every site manager was working to that level of degree on every build you wouldn’t get the crap you do today,I was just curious when nailing and putting staples into the beads was they pretty much level and straight soon as they was on
No not always, that's why I used nails top and bottom, as I could pull the bead about a little to get it spot on.
 
Problem with clouts, staples screws etc is the can slightly kink the bead...no good if you are a perfectionist....drywall adhesive for me or sticks like turbo
 
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