Dot and Dab - damp circles thoughts??

Share this page

P

Prodg

New Member
Dot and Dab - damp circles thoughts??
Dot and Dab - damp circles thoughts??


New extension built to building regs with external walls, red brick, cavity and block, finished inside with dot and dab.

It’s 4 weeks since the plastering was done and the walls won’t dry especially the dabs. I have tested one at the back and the dab is damp.

Now I have water appearing on the floor which appears more than just damp or condensation.

Any thoughts on what this problem may be?
 
Prodg said:
View attachment 72848View attachment 72849

New extension built to building regs with external walls, red brick, cavity and block, finished inside with dot and dab.

It’s 4 weeks since the plastering was done and the walls won’t dry especially the dabs. I have tested one at the back and the dab is damp.

Now I have water appearing on the floor which appears more than just damp or condensation.

Any thoughts on what this problem may be?
Click to expand...
Your house is leaking water must be the plasterers fault obviously
 
Looking at the splash marks on the wall it looks like the floor has been screeded after the plastering.
Height of screed could have bridged dpc or Touching Bottom of plasterboards.
Wet dabs grinning through are 9/10 times due to wet/damp thermalight blockwork.
Also did they cover the cavities with hessian etc when building as rain pissing in takes an age to dry out once roofs on.
 
Steve Brown said:
Looking at the splash marks on the wall it looks like the floor has been screeded after the plastering.
Height of screed could have bridged dpc or Touching Bottom of plasterboards.
Wet dabs grinning through are 9/10 times due to wet/damp thermalight blockwork.
Also did they cover the cavities with hessian etc when building as rain pissing in takes an age to dry out once roofs on.
Click to expand...
These are my thoughts. Screed was done after plastering.

There was a lot of heavy rain during the build in November and the cavities were not covered properly.

I think the thermalight block work was very damp when it was dot and dabbed.

If that is the problem will it dry out eventually or will it have caused any long term damage??
 
I think it is the builder who rushed the dot and dab onto the thermablocks that were clearly damp from all the rain.

So the big question now is…..is this salvageable or will it cause long term damage?
 
Prodg said:
View attachment 72848View attachment 72849

New extension built to building regs with external walls, red brick, cavity and block, finished inside with dot and dab.

It’s 4 weeks since the plastering was done and the walls won’t dry especially the dabs. I have tested one at the back and the dab is damp.

Now I have water appearing on the floor which appears more than just damp or condensation.

Any thoughts on what this problem may be?
Click to expand...
Ahmen....crazy idea ask the builder in person
 
zombie said:
Ahmen....crazy idea ask the builder in person
Click to expand...
I have and he is saying it is just the current cold weather and give it another few weeks to dry out. Obvs the builder doesn’t want to back off and replace all the drywall for his own economic reasons.

However, I am after other opinions from experts on here who aren’t thinking of their own pockets.
 
About two weeks after it was done, I put my hand in the wall and leaned down. The plasterboard gave way and my hand went right though it. Is this normal?
 
2" Gap at bottom of boards to floor needed .
Heavy duty dehumidifier on, heating on low, windows open when not raining.
Slow dry out , if still wet after checking for leaks and dpm is in slab then builder needs to strip dry wall and redo properly dabbled.on fully dried block work.
 
Smudger1 said:
2" Gap at bottom of boards to floor needed .
Heavy duty dehumidifier on, heating on low, windows open when not raining.
Slow dry out , if still wet after checking for leaks and dpm is in slab then builder needs to strip dry wall and redo properly dabbled.on fully dried block work.
Click to expand...
There should only be a 10-15mm gap between screed and boards. If the boarding has been done properly there will be a continuous solid band of adhesive at the bottom of the walls which shouldn't allow any airflow anyway.
Just needs gentle drying.
 

essexandy said:
There should only be a 10-15mm gap between screed and boards. If the boarding has been done properly there will be a continuous solid band of adhesive at the bottom of the walls which shouldn't allow any airflow anyway.
Just needs gentle
Click to expand...
There is quite a lot of airflow in the gap between board and walls. Was able to check this where my hand went through the damp board!!!
 
Prodg said:
There is quite a lot of airflow in the gap between board and walls. Was able to check this where my hand went through the damp board!!!
Click to expand...
To be honest it looks like the boarding has more than enough dabs of adhesive overall, in fact they've got one extra vertical row of over the spec, but there should be a solid perimeter to stop airflow behind the boards.
Either way just dry in out gently, don't do anything too forced and it'll be fine.
 
Gentle heating and the bifold doors open for ventilation does help. But in the morning…all the circles are back!

I have put my hand into the back of the plasterboards and they are damp. They are also very brittle and crumbly around the socket trays etc.

Just getting to the realisation that these boards have soaked up too much moisture and are now beyond repair.
 
Prodg said:
Gentle heating and the bifold doors open for ventilation does help. But in the morning…all the circles are back!

I have put my hand into the back of the plasterboards and they are damp. They are also very brittle and crumbly around the socket trays etc.

Just getting to the realisation that these boards have soaked up too much moisture and are now beyond repair.
Click to expand...
Pull a board off and see what’s going on,only way to really know if it’s that bad anyway
 
Building control have inspected this morning and advised that plasterboard is removed as it has lost its integrity from the damp/water exposure. Essentially the building needs to be dried out for a few weeks before being re dot and dabbed.

Builder has agreed to do the fix. Feel sorry for him.
 
Prodg said:
Building control have inspected this morning and advised that plasterboard is removed as it has lost its integrity from the damp/water exposure. Essentially the building needs to be dried out for a few weeks before being re dot and dabbed.

Builder has agreed to do the fix. Feel sorry for him.
Click to expand...
Don't feel too sorry for him, it was his error in the first place. a) Should have covered cavity b) Never put the board on on the first place. c) Screeded after boards and didn't cut back or correct before laying.

By the time the inner skin has dried out you'd possibly have galloping mould behind the board = sick building syndrome/asthma attacks.
 
essexandy said:
To be honest it looks like the boarding has more than enough dabs of adhesive overall, in fact they've got one extra vertical row of over the spec, but there should be a solid perimeter to stop airflow behind the boards.
Either way just dry in out gently, don't do anything too forced and it'll be fine.
Click to expand...
Ain't it just solid perimeter on new builds
 
Andy there are some clowns on here who have not got a clue why you solid dab boards. I feel sorry for the people that employ them.
 
This is what I don’t understand in the building trade….the regs or best practice is not followed “because nobody does it that way”

Well why don’t you start and the rest will follow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top