Curved chimney breast

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FreeD

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How to you render the curve? I tried beading it, was a nightmare, I'm thinking of fixing hardboard underneath?

FA70C45A-804B-44BB-A990-F98E06B80E4F-797-00000090EC952475.jpg
 
If you have cut the bead on one edge it will give to a degree, especially a shallow curve like that. mark a level line each side then dab it up, as you have the sides.
 
No, because until I put the sides in level 1st, I would not know how far out / or in the head would be. If you get what I mean.
 
Thanks Mark, I'll give it another go, hadn't seen the job until today, i've freehanded these before but builder wanted it bang on, he showed me one downstairs and said I want it like that and I thought f**k lol

One last thing what did you mean by this?

'mark a level line each side then dab it up, as you have the sides'

Cheers
 
He means place your level across the aperture and mark each side where it meets the uprights

Thats it, also, if you have shapped your head first to fit across the aperture, then bead sides, offer the shapped head to the uprights upside down ( mirror of right way on), mark with pencil where they meet the uprights and cut. Shoud fit nicely then.
 
How to you render the curve? I tried beading it, was a nightmare, I'm thinking of fixing hardboard underneath?

FA70C45A-804B-44BB-A990-F98E06B80E4F-797-00000090EC952475.jpg
Why not do it freehand easy enough to get that shape and skim with a external corner trowel or render it first then use a plastic arch bead but not if a wood burner is going in
 
What mark means is you make a springing line on your beads so the head curved one looks right
 
i did one of these the other week but it was on the reveals of the chimney.(if you understand) all i did was as mark said cut evenly little triangles out of the wings and stuck it up with muck then just tacked a few clouts in to hold it till it set
 
For the backing coat I would either freehand it or use a 2" plastic strip that window-fitters use. Then use a mesh skim bead for the finish coat, probs about the only time I would use one of them beads cos generally they're shoit :RpS_thumbup:
 
For the backing coat I would either freehand it or use a 2" plastic strip that window-fitters use. Then use a mesh skim bead for the finish coat, probs about the only time I would use one of them beads cos generally they're shoit :RpS_thumbup:

No they are great for slightly obtuse angles. And there's no "O" in sh1t:RpS_biggrin:
 
Not sure, I don't know him but from what ive seen he's definitley a good spread! Really nice guy too.
 
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why bead the reveals first?

Because it's hard to guess plumb on both sides, but equally as hard to guess is the extra length added by the arch on the top bead.

So on balance after weighing it all up, it's all guesswork unless you trial fit like you say, but who can be arsed to do that...not me.

I say put the top bead on too long, plumb the sides up, and snip the extra length off the top bead where the sides meet it....carefully.
 
Because it's hard to guess plumb on both sides, but equally as hard to guess is the extra length added by the arch on the top bead.

So on balance after weighing it all up, it's all guesswork unless you trial fit like you say, but who can be arsed to do that...not me.

I say put the top bead on too long, plumb the sides up, and snip the extra length off the top bead where the sides meet it....carefully.
soz mate i was on about on a window not the fireplace
 
why not just use a plastic render bead?

i use alsort of different methods it always depends on the time, arch, mess and so on
 
This forum is the most amazing place for hearing how to make a simple task sound like brain surgery.
 
snip the wing muck it in and tack a few nails in it for a while till its set up a bit simples
 
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