Can you patch a lathe and plaster ceiling with plasterboard?

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westcountrydave

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Hi I am a decorator (i know) in need of some advice on how to plaster a repair I have made in a lathe and plaster ceiling.

I have already removed about 1 square metre of lathe and plaster from an original 1930s ceiling. I had to remove the original lathe to get from underneath. I don't want to replace the whole ceiling so I have boarded the hole out with plasterboard - after removing the wooden lathe and nails etc. I have scrimmed the plasterboard edges together but the worry I now have is how do I bind the existing lathe and plaster to the plasterboard. Everything is secure I just don't want a crack to appear where the plasterboard meets the old lathe. I have left a couple of inches or lathe round the board and have come up with the following idea: To use hessian scrim pushed onto a layer of plaster between the two surfaces and then to finish off with one coat of plaster

Will this work or does anyone have a better idea - or do I need to pull down the plasterboard and put back up new lathe etc. Any help would be much appreciated as this job has to be done shortly. Should I use thistle multi finish or bonding too please.

Thanks Dave
 

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I would of cut it nice and square, board the patch completely, bond it if required to get the correct thickness, pva 100 mm around the edge, skim the boardwork and overlap the plaster 50mm ,scrim the joint and second coat and flatten.
 
Patch it with bonding,scrim the joints then skim the whole lid. better job than a patch.:RpS_thumbup:
 
Thanks for both your replies. So just to clarify: I should use bonding to get same level round the edge of the plasterboard, then use hessian scrim and bonding to bridge between the two substrates and then finish with bonding. Only one problem I have already bought thistle multi finish - shall I chuck or see if I can return it or can I use it?
 
before i skimmed the whole ceiling i would check that the original ceiling has not been decorated with distemper. if it has i would blend it in as described by john.
 
Brilliant - thanks again for your help. One last little question - I have a lot of that sticky dry wall scrim - guess I should not use this and buy some hessian scrim for the bridging?
 
Good to the the forum working well and sensible, constructive advice passed forward. All the advice is bang on in my opinion, done hundreds like these as there is a lot of lathe and plaster in my area, which is great because it chucks up lots of work like this. bond and skim, happy days
 
Use bonding only where thickness is more than 3mm , multi is fine for the finish over bonding, the bonding will set in a few hours then you can use multi on top,its fine to do the patch as I said ,
 
Good to the the forum working well and sensible, constructive advice passed forward. All the advice is bang on in my opinion, done hundreds like these as there is a lot of lathe and plaster in my area, which is great because it chucks up lots of work like this. bond and skim, happy days

i would artex it or let spanky skim it for the same effect...........................:RpS_thumbsup:. had to play devils advocate there oilcan and give some stupid advice......................karma has now been restored............................:RpS_thumbup:
 
Pretty straight forward job for a plasterer that buddy, I would get one in and let a them sort it out.

I'm pretty sure if you tried it yourself, (with the greatest respect) from the questions your asking you'd end up making a mess of it and potentially having to hire a professional in to rectify the work.
 
Leave the laths on (round here we use lathes for machining metal) and float it with Dry Coat, because its fibrous it has similar properties to haired lime plaster, then scratch float it back a couple of mm and skim flush with original, Bosh
 
I always plasterboard them. Cut out patch square to nearest joists, use multimaster. Don't remove lathes your disturb ceiling. Scrim edges. Sometimes have to put noggins in to support board. Good luck :)
 
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