Alternatives to rendering arched chimney breast

FreeD

FreeD

Private Member
Anybody used hardi backer boards and dabbed the opening?

What do you do if you have an arch...bead on the arch and dab the opening...

Looking for a quicker way than rendering.
 
They sell specific fire retardent boards that can be dabbed or mechanical fixed @victas heat plaster...

Very expensive though... Used them before followed by there skim to finish
 
Pagey said:
Hope you got a good saw for hardibacker
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I've just done 3 bathrooms (in a house that has 6!), in hardiebacker.....cut it using the hardie scorer and a made a makeshift guillotine (2 bits of 4x2 with a gap), to snap the boards....worked well, no dust.
 
Dropsalot said:
I've just done 3 bathrooms (in a house that has 6!), in hardiebacker.....cut it using the hardie scorer and a made a makeshift guillotine (2 bits of 4x2 with a gap), to snap the boards....worked well, no dust.
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It's a pain before that all come out
 
Dropsalot said:
I've just done 3 bathrooms (in a house that has 6!), in hardiebacker.....cut it using the hardie scorer and a made a makeshift guillotine (2 bits of 4x2 with a gap), to snap the boards....worked well, no dust.
Click to expand...
hardibacker even had a sticker on it saying this will give you cancer lol the black stuff
 
zombie said:
They sell specific fire retardent boards that can be dabbed or mechanical fixed @victas heat plaster...

Very expensive though... Used them before followed by there skim to finish
Click to expand...

I've heard you can just paint directly onto hardi backer, no skimming required. That Victas stuff is a rip off
 
What would you do about the arch? bead it and render it in. I'm patching not re doing the whole breast
 
FreeD said:
What would you do about the arch? bead it and render it in. I'm patching not re doing the whole breast
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Why you going away from sand cement? If it's an arch as well will have to be a pukka cut to look good, not doubting your cutting skills but freehanding an arch will be easier than cutting a board nice
 
I've used 12mm hardiebacker on chimney breasts mechanically fixed - bullet proof. Tiled a few and used victas heat resistant plaster on one but it is s**t to use, like gloopy glue. I dropped an arch on one with a piece of angle as the customer wanted it modernising, easier and looked mint! Couple of pics:(y)
 

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TOPCAT said:
I've used 12mm hardiebacker on chimney breasts mechanically fixed - bullet proof. Tiled a few and used victas heat resistant plaster on one but it is s**t to use, like gloopy glue. I dropped an arch on one with a piece of angle as the customer wanted it modernising, easier and looked mint! Couple of pics:(y)
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The bead drops down on the right but nice job.
 
Pagey said:
Why you going away from sand cement? If it's an arch as well will have to be a pukka cut to look good, not doubting your cutting skills but freehanding an arch will be easier than cutting a board nice
Click to expand...

It's just so time consuming and messy, just done one and spent ages messing around to get the beads perfect, grinder on the brick work as little suction sbr etc etc...

My knees are hurting!

Alternatives to rendering arched chimney breast
 
TOPCAT said:
I've used 12mm hardiebacker on chimney breasts mechanically fixed - bullet proof. Tiled a few and used victas heat resistant plaster on one but it is s**t to use, like gloopy glue. I dropped an arch on one with a piece of angle as the customer wanted it modernising, easier and looked mint! Couple of pics:(y)
Click to expand...

Piece of angle...whats that a steel of some kind?
 
Can't you hardwall front and sand cement inside mate,smart that job mate I like doing them if I'm honest,can't you put a bit of rapid cement in mix not loads but enough to speed it up a bit?
 
Pagey said:
Can't you hardwall front and sand cement inside mate,smart that job mate I like doing them if I'm honest,can't you put a bit of rapid cement in mix not loads but enough to speed it up a bit?
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Boarding would speed it up...but most customer want to keep the arch...so I'm not sure how you would get over this and keep it looking sharp
 
Pagey said:
Cut board short and then free hand arch say 3 inch short
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Only way I can think is to board the opening leaving the hardi backer proud of the face, once adhesive is set, cut the hardi backer back in line with the face, then run a stop bead up either side, then cut and fix an angle bead, fix to the arch bring it in line with the stop beads on either side
 
FreeD said:
Piece of angle...whats that a steel of some kind?
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Yes mate, known as angle iron. That piece was 2 inch angle so each side is 2 inches wide. You can get 1 inch but deffo don't need bigger than 2. I had it pre drilled on a mates stand drill which dictated where the fixings went, but I would recommend the chimney is looked at and measured first to ensure good fixing points, which I didn't!
 
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