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I have to take back what I said earlier as I was wrong, just looked at my own build from a few years ago and the socket does indeed go into the wall. Dont actually like the design because if there is a leak I want to see it and not have it possibly run into the cavity. Instead of the render...

Dont think so, by the time the 90 is fully home the radius will catch the render and the resulting pipe run will be too close to the wall. You need the joining socket and a single socket 90 like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp161-92-5-bend-single-socket-black/70115 they were idiots...

Agreed but I am only a DIY Daddy (@Cockney1 ) so my time is of no concern.

I got the 150mm centers from this forum, and knauf also says 150 butI think I should of actually staggered them along the joists according to knauf and 150 is only the edge and not mid board.

Thank you but I am just a DIY Daddy :inocente: @Cockney1

That's the specs - all be it I will grant you it is the specs for the peremiter and not mid board. And I used 150 everywhere. #boarding refesher course.

@Cockney1 :fuckyou::bailando::hola:

150 centers and not a mm more or less

Joists are staggered and the in between knoggins are at 1.2m so you are looking at the knoggings

Think there about 400

150mm centres as per guidelines. There was a debate about screw centres on this forum.

Ho yes I have re read and get it now -- you are recommending any silver ones. Thing is I dont think neither screwfix or toolstation had the right length in zinc. Why do you prefer zinc.

Don't get ya

Here you go. I scribed all the ceiling to wall edges to follow the wall and the barrel to wall join was shampherd to the wall, I also added some board adheasive behind the curve and at the ends.

The plasterboard is up. (y)

Oi calm down bilger! What’s the false advice I gave out? I told you I’m here for my fellow spreads not penny pinching Diy daddy’s like yourself. I was referring to this. I would of thought that a quality spreader would have nothing to fear about loosing work to "DIY Daddy's"

Fair enough - then dont give any out but at the same time dont give out false misleading advice to DIYers. At least that is a useful post for anyone else who comes here for advice - to not trust any thing that Cockney1 says. (y)

Which is why I started this thread in the first place - to ask others experience on screws and your very own reply was ---- Your other reply was offering to skim the job for free in exchange for a screw - when you could of instead offered your toolstation screws advice then, which would of...

Yes my mistake - at least it proves you are paying attention. Changed it to toolstation. (y)

Eh --- Its a dewalt, ?

Well I started this thread for some advice on screws - good ones- bad ones, no one seemed to be able to recommend either way. So I brought cheap ones from toolstation 60x3.5 which were fine in my new noggings but at times it was hard going in my 50 year old seasoned joist's. I think I could of...

So no one can tell me if I can use SBR instead of PVA

Nope I will take photos of my boarding and "project" and report back, here is a couple of shots of my mapping out of the joists. I drilled down from the loft each side of the rafters to get the positions.# PS I did the artex 20 years ago and was my first effort.

Its old 60s so 3/8s ?, defiantly 9mm

So is there still a risk it will fall down with the lighter 9.5mm board.

My bedroom ceiling 3.5m x2.5m 1960s house has 3x2 joists and 9mm skimmed board currently artexed I am overboarding it but worried 12.5 will be too heavy. Could I use 9.5mm knauf. The centres to joist are mainly 460mm but 1 is 480mm and 3 others go down to 300mm. The ceiling is barrelled (more...

Looks like its Friday again :inocente:

"I'm not sure the top of my head has ever recovered" Think the damage went deeper than just the top :LOL::ROFLMAO::bailando:

As the title. I am only using it on the board edges and screw heads of my over boarding project so only need a small amount so rather than buy 5ltr of PVA could I use SBR which I have spare from some tiling. GOOGLE ---- SBR, or Styrene Butadiene Rubber, is a water resistant bonding and...

Got the calipers out and the board is 9mm, one side is a textured surface and the other is smooth both sides are a cardboard colour. So why was it 1960s 12 upstairs and 9 down. Would of thought 12 down and 9 up due to traffic on the top of downstairs ceiling. Was it a case of the downstairs...

Found a bit of spare board in the loft that I think is the original for my house its 8mm. I have an artexted ceiling I am going to be overboarding I measured the depth and its 13mm with artex (low comb pattern ) so it looks like the whole ceiling is done in that same thickness I found in the...

Cause I know what some are like in here and would probably say stuff like "people bouncing off the walls" :inocente: But It seems ceilings are the most prone to cracks. But being flexible - ish maybe if you banged into it with furniture it would damage more readily so best just on the ceiling...

How a bout a flexible plaster for ceilings. Mixes up and spreads as normal but dry s flexable. Would solve all cracking issues. Surly with moderm ploymers etc it can be achieved.

You use it when you haven't got the depth available to use 12.5

9.5 is lighter

[ More rigid --- Would that mean I could even get away with 9mm when over- boarding ( nogings everywhere when over 370mm joists } I say that because that is what I have done in readyness for 12.5mm I.e I have already added noggings everywhere apart from 3 joist spans that were 370 centeres and...

I think this is a good idea and product but perhaps a forum full of spreaders stuck with their old methods is not the place to push this. I can also see a use for tiling when attaching beads. Maybe more of a DIY product.

Ok - interesting looks like Knauf all the way. But what characteristic's has one from the other that makes Knauf better.

That giphy is meaningless to the subject

I have read it. (y)

Any preference as to which board you prefer. I am looking at wickes plasterboard - knauf .

He went through every one in one go :ROFLMAO:He's still doing it to every post I make :LOL: - Why so mardy.:ROFLMAO:

Yeh I think I have found a mardy plasterer :ROFLMAO:

How so - others have done the same thing. I did the same with a bathroom ceiling but never really gave much thought to gaps or other issues but that was only a small ceiling with nothing above but this one is a lot bigger and I am storing a motorbike above it :cool:

So I gave stevieo a disagree emoji in this thread and so he has gone through every one of my posts in every forum section and done the same :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

I havent asked them I said straight away that I would board it first- they are mainly wet only.

So as far as gaps go its 2-1 to no gaps.

Thank you @Wayners using a mini roller is a good tip. Perhaps I could do all 10 boards in one go whilst they are stacked and then just need to redo the new cut edge. I have some BAL Bond SBR primer left over from some tiling I did - would that be ok to use instead of PVA.

Forgot to say I am over boarding and its a bedroom. I have added knoggins to the whole perimeter and in-between joists at the joins apart from 3 at a wall end where the centers were 370mm and 300mm. While I was marking all the joist positions I have also marked all of the original joint...

Boarding my ceiling ready for a plasterer to skim, I have read pages and pages about leaving gaps inbetween boards but still not sure if I should or not. Also what about the join in-between the ceiling and wall, do I surform down the top of the wall to allow mesh to be placed on the ceiling and...