Search results

makes life a lot easier than hanging around for pimple patches setting enough to trowel em out.

What did you use before PVA was invented :D It,s called progress I still use PVA, but if its a big un (ceiling) I prefer to use Betakontakt (WBA). Ive had some ceilings suck like a bitch after 2 coats of PVA.

Board finish is for low suction backgrounds not just plasterboard, when WBA is applied you have very little suction, i find it a lot better than watching multi grinning at me hanging for ages!!

yes, use board finish though and let first coat hazel off, no problems.

If they are galvanised clout nails you can skim over them, when they get left bent the zinc can flake off and they can start rusting. If the damage is only minor, like 20mm holes then scrim n skim will be ok, but you should be applying two coats of skim.

Hammer! you can faff about but a small hammer soon finds them, it look a mess but you are boarding over it any way.

do it this way on ceilings

Same as! 20kg tub betakontakt from TP £53 or 3kg tub of WBA £14 F%$k Wiccies

Makes you jump like f$*K though :D

Have done similar and probably ended up working for about £60 odd quid a day when first started out cos i didnt take into account all overheads, really pissed me off. I have got a good reputation now and havnt had to advertise for the last 2 years, which helps with the profit on jobs.

If you manage or anyone can manage to take down a lath and plaster ceiling AND replace with boards whilst leaving the original coving UNDAMAGED needs a furking medal, or there head examining for just thinking it can be done in first place :o

One looks like 22mm gas feed to boiler other will be overflow from boiler, and a drive shaft on the drive LOL :D

Ceiling fell on him :o

They are exactly the same motors and gear box as refina just the handles are different and a couple of Refina stickers :D

I bought a new Eibenstock mixer a couple of months ago from Alfra in Sheffield the 2speed 1100w ones are £175 and the 2 speed 1800w ones are £200, you definatly wont get better or cheaper than this ;). Cash only sale BTW. They have a website.

Yes Steve I,ve skimmed over tiles a few times, I,m a big fan of Knauf betakontakt which comes in 20kg tubs for £50, I use it on artex, tiles or any other "iffy" surfaces. This is exactly the same product as wickes bonding agent which costs about £13 for a 3kg tub. I only ever use bonding...

i would use hardwall cos its for high suction backgrounds, bonding coat is for low suction flexible backgrounds. you would probably end up with the bonding crazing due to the bricks sucking like a bitch :P

Ive just watched the 1 min edit, " cover everything up plaster gets everywhere" thats good advice :D He is also polishing a wall (plasterboard) thats just about set! I,d be packed up and gone. :-\

Ive had this happen have you tryed to feel if where the crack is, it is raised slightly? I think its because the boards shrink back a little when everything has completely dryed out. Ive just sanded over with 120 grit paper and rolled over with paint and its barely visable after.

Its best built up using a couple of coats, first coat on, let go a bit, about 45min. top with second coat, rule off, close in when firming up.

Yep, been mentioned a few times now on other posts, I thought it was me also, am not the quickest plasterer by far but a 2 bag set (domestic) can be a killer at times. :D

If you are going to apply the PVA where its not going to get wet under normal conditions then it should be ok. SBR is a better choice though.

Theres not a single fixing visible there only round the edges of the boards "clucking bell" :P

Thats to supply everything!! Materials come out at £500.

Thanks, you are bang on regarding number of days, I estimate 10-11 days, however I quoted £1620 cash, and her jaw has hit the floor :o. I,m walking away if she tries to haggle the price :D

yes studding also. The debate seems to have come off on a tangent cos it a "property developer" and they want to cut corners, most customers will go for an overboard on cracked,sagging, distempered ceilings, when I tell them the pro,s n cons. BTW This property developer is another beast :D

Sorry Bod if its confusing, 275m2 total, 12 beads, approx 4-5 bags of rough stuff.

She has steamed the ceiling and some has come off, dont want to take chances though, can anyone tell me what they would quote for the work described please and I can compare cos am a bit pissed about it.

Its kind of a mix between white wash and crap emulsion and "melts when PVA,ed. Nasty :D

Usually board over distemper, but they wont want to pay extra, so you use stabelex then PVA or Bonding agent Richard?

Recently went to view a house purchased by a female property developer (so they call themselves) full of ideas and enthusiasm. All house was papered, distemper on ceilings etc. They are removing paper. Wanted a quote for the following: 3 bedrooms 1@55m2, 2@45m2 2...

Rising damp will only "rise" about 800mm from source so it sounds like penetrating damp or roof damage.

They can guarantee the product for 30years, but will its application meet all the warranty criteria. Makes me laugh this guarantee malarky, like silver__ne products... apparently there guaranteed forever, but not much kop.

Just remember this: PAPER + PLASTER = CARPET : :o

Please be sensible this is a plasterers forum, I dont regard myself as a true plasterer, being only part of work I do, but I KNOW you cant put 10 bags on in four hours on ya jack jones, I do sets which take 2-3 hours and on my own 3 bags is pushing it. By the way Ive been grinding bucket trowels...

Cant tha use sum bleedin buildin tape ont them thar beads, white buildin tape over wood cos it suck like a good bitch.

If you get everything right you should be taking very little fat from the plaster when trowelling up. Eg set size, thickness, timing between trowelling, amount of water used when trowelling. On a set where you may be "losing it" then wetting it down and using the fat to fill out the misses, is a...

Maybe you mean they are fat-filled hollows or trails of water/fat from the heel of your trowel. I find that the latter stage of trowelling I tend to look more like a window cleaner with a squigee :D

I have found in the past that artex when painted with silk emulsion has virtually no suction, once primed a ceiling with 3:1 PVA and it took 24 hrs to dry :o. So decided to try a different approach have used almost neat PVA (just enough water to make it roll on) but then the Multi would hang...

Knock off any high spots, WBA it then hit it with a slightly stiff coat of board finish try to cover the artex completely, let this first coat hazel off before topping it with second coat of boardy.

Tidy like :D did you lay on with a brush.

Trouble with galvanised beads is you cant tell if coating is damaged or not very easily, till the ferrous oxide starts growing on it or not :) Stainless beads are about £4.80 each delivered from buildfix.

If your trowelling up half right you should be able to take most of the fat off by working across/along the wall taking the fat line left from previous stroke with the next stroke. A bit like a window cleaner with a squigy. ;D You,ll know when to take the fat off the trowel when its snotting...

Yep, hazelling off is when the plaster stops looking "wet" and first starts setting.

Just re-read everything, I was mistaken the plaster pulled off and not the paint, so I think it was either the fat as previous or a thin patch (high spot) or simply poorly adhered plaster.

Its either fat as already stated or you could have troweled up too much and closed it up, leaving the surface like glass.

Nowt fancy about his finish then!!! Night

you not talking about work, just shitty sites that promise loads of fantastic leads !!!!