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the old boy was practically cumming in his pants yesterday when he was telling me how good lime sand mortar was to use when he used it all the time as a youngster.
 
sorry lads i think i have come across abit offensive, what it is i have been doing a massive job (smooth render s&c) and i have done nearly all the small - average size walls and i needed a hand on the bigger ones, anyway got talking to a local spread and he was banging on that he was s**t hot so i said to him i need a hand, he turns up this morning with another spread who is also s**t hot. so we all get to work on the wall, am on the top lift, s**t hot plasterer 1 is on the middle and s**t hot plasterer 2 on the ground, we get it all on by 11 oclock, i take a look and it all looks ok. off for dinner an come back to rub up..... this is where the fun started, i cant say what they were doing as i couldn't see from were i was working. after i finished rubbing up i got down to find No1 was struggling abit so i started to give him a hand (he hadnt ruled the wall properly so the float was digging in everywhere and he was only half way across the wall) so i start trying to fill out here and there for him when i hear No2 shouting all sorts of obscenity's, when i look down he had been flicking water at the wall, caused suction and pulled big sections off with his float :eek: told them both to get there tools! me and my lab scraped it all off and we are bringing my dad and bro down which i didnt want too as they love money more than me so it will now eat into my profit. :(
 
rusticated render with sand and cement sorts the men from the boys anyone can do plainface ;)
 
yes mate it is and dont use battens neither and maybe like to run a mould in the sinkings
 
am a man! i have done lots of quoins an one fella wanted his garden wall doing in the same style so i read my book and away i went, i even did the keystone and all that over the top of his gate. oh and i couldnt use batterns because he wanted the joints to be chamfered and not square, it took ages though! i lost out big time on the price but i didnt care because i enjoyed doing it :)

i aint run any s&c yet though but i am going to have to learn fast because there is like a round tower on this job and they want a band running around it :-\

shouldnt be much of a problem the fella is going to cut the template to the shape he wants ;D
 
grand wizard said:
never use battens i always cut the sinkings with a knife or small tool
Click to expand...

i use my small tool too, and i have got a 4ft piece of woo with a 45o angle cut into it which i rest my small tool on to cut at the right angle ;)
 
kirk johnstone said:
grand wizard said:
never use battens i always cut the sinkings with a knife or small tool
Click to expand...

i use my small tool too, and i have got a 4ft piece of woo with a 45o angle cut into it which i rest my small tool on to cut at the right angle ;)
Click to expand...
the tool is called a frenchmen
 
flat boy skim said:
kirk johnstone said:
grand wizard said:
never use battens i always cut the sinkings with a knife or small tool
Click to expand...

i use my small tool too, and i have got a 4ft piece of woo with a 45o angle cut into it which i rest my small tool on to cut at the right angle ;)
Click to expand...
the tool is called a frenchmen
Click to expand...

oh nice one mate i normaly call it the thingy ma bob or the wot dya mcall it :D
 
whats the best way to do them quoins kirk do you do em ontop of the scratch coat an how thick does it have to be ive got a small s/c job comin up soon for a mate an wunt mind giving it a bash
 
madmonk said:
whats the best way to do them quoins kirk do you do em ontop of the scratch coat an how thick does it have to be ive got a small s/c job comin up soon for a mate an wunt mind giving it a bash
Click to expand...

there is quite abit to it mate, and i cant really be bothered typing it all out tonight as i want to go downstairs to the pub, i can tell you easier over the phone so if you pm me your num i will call you now and quickly go through it mate ;)
 
right am off the pub, when i get back i will start work on a guide to quoins if any of you guys want me to, but let me know because if no one is interested i wont bother ;)
 
kirk johnstone said:
right am off the pub, when i get back i will start work on a guide to quoins if any of you guys want me to, but let me know because if no one is interested i wont bother ;)
Click to expand...


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No one seems to be asking for advice :p :p :p :p :p :p :p :p :p :p
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GUIDE FORE FORMING QUOINS


(this is the way i do it, there is more than one way tough)

first of all get some lengths of wood (the same thickness that you want the quoins). attach the wood horizontally around the bottom and the top of the corner you are going to work on, you will use these as thickness rules.
it would be best to drill, plug and screw these thickness rules as it will be easier to take them away afterwards.

the wall should have already been scratch coated and now you can start to build out to the correct level of your rules, if you are building out more than 3/4'' then you will need to use dryers (this is sand and cement mixed to the same ratio as what you are using fore forming the quoins only without water, a dry mix), the reason for this is if you try to build out to thick it will just sag and drop of the wall. so put a coat on, throw some drymix (dryers) at it, just like pebble dashing then put another coat on, throw more dryers and then another coat, continue until you are at the right thickness then use the thickness rules at the top and bottom of the wall to get your quoins straight flat and true. now let the ruled sand and cement firm up and when it is ready rub it up with the float. now the next step is to mark out your quoin stones.

measure the distance from the top of the wall to the bottom and divide this number by the amount of quoins that you want, then put a little horizontal line in the sand and cement with your small tool at the hight of all of the joints. now with the aid of a small spirit level cut your small line into the sand and cement all the way back to the scratch coat (do this for every joint on both sides of the corner).

right now the hight of the quoins is sorted you need to work out how wide you want them, they are normally twice as wide as the hight, so if your quoin is 10'' high then it would be 20'' wide when you are looking at it square on so mark it out and cut in the vertical line on both sides of the corner.

ok next step, the quoins are staggered so when you look at them square on from one side they step in and out (the bit that steps in is the depth of the quoin on the other side of the corner) now the depth of the quoin is normally two thirds of the width so in this case the depth would be about 13".

you can now mark this out using the same method as before but only cut through every other quoin and do the opposite on the other side.

you now have them all marked out and can now go to work on cutting the joints, on the size of the quoin we are talking about i would cut off about an inch and a half off each stone, so you need to mark out 1 1/2" each side of every line you have cut in. mark these new lines very gently in to the surface first as these will be getting cut at an angle to form the chamfer aroun the edge or each quoin, once marked you can proceed to cut out the chamfered joints with the aid of a small feather edge of a frenchman (piece of wood with a 45% chamfer cut along the edge), take it nice and slow and only cut a small bit at a time. they should be taking shape by now.

once done they might just need a bit of touching up with the float.

take out the rules and job done

have fun and good look ;)
 
kirk johnstone said:
GUIDE FORE FORMING QUOINS


(this is the way i do it, there is more than one way tough)

first of all get some lengths of wood (the same thickness that you want the quoins). attach the wood horizontally around the bottom and the top of the corner you are going to work on, you will use these as thickness rules.
it would be best to drill, plug and screw these thickness rules as it will be easier to take them away afterwards.

the wall should have already been scratch coated and now you can start to build out to the correct level of your rules, if you are building out more than 3/4'' then you will need to use dryers (this is sand and cement mixed to the same ratio as what you are using fore forming the quoins only without water, a dry mix), the reason for this is if you try to build out to thick it will just sag and drop of the wall. so put a coat on, throw some drymix (dryers) at it, just like pebble dashing then put another coat on, throw more dryers and then another coat, continue until you are at the right thickness then use the thickness rules at the top and bottom of the wall to get your quoins straight flat and true. now let the ruled sand and cement firm up and when it is ready rub it up with the float. now the next step is to mark out your quoin stones.

measure the distance from the top of the wall to the bottom and divide this number by the amount of quoins that you want, then put a little horizontal line in the sand and cement with your small tool at the hight of all of the joints. now with the aid of a small spirit level cut your small line into the sand and cement all the way back to the scratch coat (do this for every joint on both sides of the corner).

right now the hight of the quoins is sorted you need to work out how wide you want them, they are normally twice as wide as the hight, so if your quoin is 10'' high then it would be 20'' wide when you are looking at it square on so mark it out and cut in the vertical line on both sides of the corner.

ok next step, the quoins are staggered so when you look at them square on from one side they step in and out (the bit that steps in is the depth of the quoin on the other side of the corner) now the depth of the quoin is normally two thirds of the width so in this case the depth would be about 13".

you can now mark this out using the same method as before but only cut through every other quoin and do the opposite on the other side.

you now have them all marked out and can now go to work on cutting the joints, on the size of the quoin we are talking about i would cut off about an inch and a half off each stone, so you need to mark out 1 1/2" each side of every line you have cut in. mark these new lines very gently in to the surface first as these will be getting cut at an angle to form the chamfer aroun the edge or each quoin, once marked you can proceed to cut out the chamfered joints with the aid of a small feather edge of a frenchman (piece of wood with a 45% chamfer cut along the edge), take it nice and slow and only cut a small bit at a time. they should be taking shape by now.

once done they might just need a bit of touching up with the float.

take out the rules and job done

have fun and good look ;)
Click to expand...
say again ;D
 
that was as simple as i could explain it mate, im sorry but my vocabulary limits the depth of expressing my my full expertises of knowledge on the subject in hand :-*
 
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