what bead to use from dash to flat render ?

[180 wizard]

hi,
A customer has just asked if i can knock all the peble dash off from round the bottom of his house to around a foot high then put some a bead along and re render flat around the bottom, he has a friend who has had it done before and says the rain water stops at the peble dash and comes off the bead so does not get to the bottom of the house stopping any damp isues
so my question is what bead should i be using ?
and has anyone done this before ?
do i need to leave the new render set back a bit?

cheers !

 

[bodplasterer]

Sounds like you are on about a bellcast bead.

 

[church]

Bellcast bead .

 

[180 wizard]

thanks guys ,
so how would you go about this job,its a full pebble dashed house and he only wants this drip bead or bellcast putting in a foot high and rendering flat below the dash ....,so when fitting the bellcast will i after fit it at the dash height and patch it into the pebble dash and put some dash on it again or is there a way of fitting it to the new render i will be doing on the bottom part .. it looks like the bellcast is angled so the water runs off it (so I'm thinking put it under the dash render ?) does this sound right or has anyone got any suggestions !

cheers!

 

[goody]

it sounds to me like the house is rendered down to the floor and bridging the dpc(if any). What he wants is a bell inserting into the wall as normal and under that rendered thinner and flat like a regular plinth mate?

 

[180 wizard]

yeah thats just what he's after mate !

so when i take the render off at the bottom do i put the bell cast up side down up to the pabble dash ? and where on the wall is correct in relation to the DPC above /below/or on the dpc line ?

 

[goody]

usually about 150mm above ground min but depending on the age of the house it might not have one anyway. If the house has bricks and not stone it will either have an early slate dpc or a later felt one. the bell goes on the dpc line which stops you bridging it with render wicking up and over it. Getting the cut line or repairing it with a bell is going to look naff at best really unless you can come up with some ingenious way of softening it on the eye

 

[goody]

sorry yeah the upside down bell will work as a barrier. It would not be a bell as such but but will give you a bead nose to play around with and get straight and tight up to the cut line with minimal filling

 

[martinemj]

patching in pebble dash ---you will have to be good to get a match...

but you will always see the difference

make your customer aware of this before you do anything!!!

 

[dieselpower]

Get some dressed timber, say 4"by1" and put a slight bevel on it (same as a bellcast bead has) with a table saw, mark on wall where your going to cut then fix timber onto wall with some decent fixings, this way you get it bang on level.
Now you have a nice straight angled guide to run along with a 3" grinder, no patching required and nice clean edge..

 

[180 wizard]

OK cheers ,
that all makes sense to me.
-I'm going to take the old dash off up to dpc
-then put a bellend bead on
-then render to it leaving set back a bit from dash to form a lip for rain to come off it
-*jobs a good un *!!!!

hopefully i can get a nice clean edge when taking it off so i dont after re do any pebble dash !
would you recommend using the grinder to take it off clean ?
do they do bellcasts at different depths ? what size would be best ? and where stock them I've just looked at wickes and they dont have them ?!

 

[dieselpower]

You won't need any beads if you cut it with grinder, the angle you cut the dash at will act as a bellcast. Just take your time and make sure grinder disc is flat on the wooden template and your cut will be as straight as the piece of timber you have temporarily fixed on..

 

[180 wizard]

sorry posting at same time .....quite like that idea deiselpower just trying to get my head round the cut angle ? so would you fix the wood above the dpc onto the dash and just use as a gide then take off after?

 

[dieselpower]

First, decide where you want the bellcast to be on the wall and mark it.
Then fix your slightly bevelled length of timber directly under the mark on wall, level and fix. This way you are drilling fixing's into what's coming off anyway so no marks.

If you take your time then you should have a perfect cut with no need to patch anything, then just a case of stripping timber and chipping off below and making good with whatever finish.