Weber rendaid

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dai dog

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Hi guys, render technical state they're rend aid, goes about 7.5 m2 @ 2-3 mm thick.
Has anyone got experience of it going over brick & black mortar joints? If so, in you're experience, how far will a bag go? (The walls hacked off aren't the worst, nor the best!) regards Rhys.
 
About that I always prime the wall first with sbr @4-1 just to help it along that stuff is quite chewy then troll on tight then stipple
 
I was finding about 3 to 4 m a bag on brick so asumed I was putting it on too thick I endedd up putting on a bit like acrylic thin coat "lay on scpape off" and and that gave me about 6m2 per bag, when pointed flush you get around 7 same as block work @madmonks info could be useful never tried this.:)
 
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I get about 2.5m2 a bag but that is about 3-4mm thick, fully meshed and scratched.
The only time i got cracking is when i meshed in the rendaid ,never done it since ,always mesh in the mono now ,i think in the rendaid is to close to the substrate ,not saying right or wrong ,just a thought
 
Hi guys, render technical state they're rend aid, goes about 7.5 m2 @ 2-3 mm thick.
Has anyone got experience of it going over brick & black mortar joints? If so, in you're experience, how far will a bag go? (The walls hacked off aren't the worst, nor the best!) regards Rhys.
you can put it on tight ,then take a roller to it ,that does get more out of the bag ,and let the rendaid give a very good key [video=youtube_share;hRlo7YWsbyE]http://youtu.be/hRlo7YWsbyE[/video]
 
The only time i got cracking is when i meshed in the rendaid ,never done it since ,always mesh in the mono now ,i think in the rendaid is to close to the substrate ,not saying right or wrong ,just a thought


Weber told me not to mesh the rend aid either although that was from Felix the Caribean cat. Makes sense but since I have meshed the pre rend never had a crack.

I dont like meshing mono as I am dubious about the top coat being sat on a sheet of plastic. Maybe if the mesh was 5-6mm but the 4mm is a bit small for me. I have got quite a variety of meshes from 4mm to 8mm.
 
Weber told me not to mesh the rend aid either although that was from Felix the Caribean cat. Makes sense but since I have meshed the pre rend never had a crack.

I dont like meshing mono as I am dubious about the top coat being sat on a sheet of plastic. Maybe if the mesh was 5-6mm but the 4mm is a bit small for me. I have got quite a variety of meshes from 4mm to 8mm.
we all have to go with what works best for us all ,weber guys read from the book ,we work out in the field day in day out ,they are always moving the goal post mate ,as you know
 
Weber told me not to mesh the rend aid either although that was from Felix the Caribean cat. Makes sense but since I have meshed the pre rend never had a crack.

I dont like meshing mono as I am dubious about the top coat being sat on a sheet of plastic. Maybe if the mesh was 5-6mm but the 4mm is a bit small for me. I have got quite a variety of meshes from 4mm to 8mm.
Over the rendaid i spray about 10mm first place and then mesh ,we bed the whole mesh in the first coat until you see no mesh ,then top coat ,so it does not sit on the mesh ,it is embedded in it ,if you know what i mean
 
you can put it on tight ,then take a roller to it ,that does get more out of the bag ,and let the rendaid give a very good key [video=youtube_share;hRlo7YWsbyE]http://youtu.be/hRlo7YWsbyE[/video]
Same, put on tight then stipple with a roller, make sure you roller when its wet.:RpS_thumbup:
 
The only time i got cracking is when i meshed in the rendaid ,never done it since ,always mesh in the mono now ,i think in the rendaid is to close to the substrate ,not saying right or wrong ,just a thought

mesh as further away from the substrate as possible what ever render you use.
 
bit of an onion theres more strength in mono if the outer layers meshed less chance of movement resulting in any cracking.
 
Same, put on tight then stipple with a roller, make sure you roller when its wet.:RpS_thumbup:

The problem with stipple is the peaks can come to the surface and you have to flatten the peaks where mesh is going to go or there is a risk of the mesh coming to the surface.
 
The problem with stipple is the peaks can come to the surface and you have to flatten the peaks where mesh is going to go or there is a risk of the mesh coming to the surface.
Agreed, you do have to be careful for that not to happen, you do have to scrape down the odd area when dry.
 
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