reat lads,when i posted the post about the fella being funny bout the quote,1 of the replys from skimmin2day said that it was a big mistake 2 wba an artex ceiling that already had a top key n that it would only need 1 coat of pva to hold the suction off. i always thought wba was the best for an artex ceiling for killing the suction(i'm slow) n having to avoid waiting around all morning between coats of pva while it hangs for what seems like an eternity. thats why i'd always wba the night before if i can. do a lot of you guys only pva ceilings or walls once n if so would that be a 3-1? cheers
wba n pva questions
- Thread starter ballsdeep
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wba and bond-it are expensive, and I only ever use them on walls that I know will be very porous otherwise its pva all the way, I 95% of the time only do one good coat of pva the easy way of checking is if after applying the pva within 5 mins its dry then you will need another coat otherwise I just fire on the finish and in over ten years have never had any problems.
If you have to wait ages for the one coat of pva to set then you know there is no suction.
If it goes in straight away then you make a decision on whether you can handel the size of ceiling setting fairly fast, or give it another coat to be on the safe side.
If in doubt dont risk it, its better to do a good job and maintain a good reputation rather than doing it half arsed for the sake of half an hour.
If it goes in straight away then you make a decision on whether you can handel the size of ceiling setting fairly fast, or give it another coat to be on the safe side.
If in doubt dont risk it, its better to do a good job and maintain a good reputation rather than doing it half arsed for the sake of half an hour.
goody
Private Member
If it's a silk painted ceiling not much point in sealing it as it is already by the paint. just one neat coat of unibond(maybe half a cup of water to thin slightly) with a decorators trade kit ie. deep roller tray and an industrial roler frame and pole covers in no time and work systematically, just put a black bag over it between jobs, rollers keep for ages then. any thick pva you got left in tray just add water and pour into your sealing pva container which you keep separate from your glue coat container. Although it it's a heavy artex stipple and you've scraped loads of porous high spots you might wanna seal as soon as you turn up in morn then start setting up for rest of day to give time to dry. Here endeth the lesson. 
iain_flanagan
New Member
always use gyp-bond or wba on walls and ceiling that have no suction at all,and use pva on areas that are very porus,best if you can do them the day before
As with Flaz, wba and bond-it is for use on surfaces with no suction, silk paint, it is also for use for wait for it , word of the week, friable sufaces, flakey and semi unstable surfaces like artex, it doesn't really help with killing suction on high porous sufaces such as old float coat and matt painted surfaces this is where pva comes into play.
plasterjfe
Private Member
in an ideal world you should never skim over artex and an artex texture is no key at all. (thistle bondit prob best product) Artex being an air drying product goes soft with wet skim on it and remains soft after the plaster has set (setting Product obviously) so you have a moist and movable layer under your skim, this can cause so many probs (too mant to list but somewhere down the line you might be troweling up and find your skim peel off). use the best product available i say cost it in and explain to the customer why they need the £50 tub product it needs the best seal plus key
skimmin2day
Active Member
Rather than pay £50 for your so called super seler spend £50 on x 8 plaster boards and some screws and overboard it.
years ago there was no such thing as wba and we all used pva.
In my mind wba is for very low to NO suction backgrounds i.e concrete.
Always overboard for best results.
years ago there was no such thing as wba and we all used pva.
In my mind wba is for very low to NO suction backgrounds i.e concrete.
Always overboard for best results.
plasterjfe
Private Member
agreed scammin2day but you cant always do that with the walls. I always overboard lids and if the next guy is cheaper cos he is overskim then so be it.
irish_spread
Private Member
plasterjfe and skimin2day both correct. However if the tight customer wont pay 4 overboarding, next best thing is wba/pva BOND n skim. when the bonding sets on the artex it goes 'hard' again. Then skim the f**k*r. Blisters are a pain in the ass tho :'(
skimmin2day
Active Member
Why would you Pva over bonding ???? you could skim it 1 hr after putting a thin coat on it.
It all depend whats on the ceiling..
if for example the ceiling is lath and plaster and been skimmed and artexed becuse its cracked and knackered bonding out and skimming will just put more weight on the celing and pull it down and crack in weeks.
if the artex is new build on boards (that have been screwed up) then it will take the weight.
It all depend whats on the ceiling..
if for example the ceiling is lath and plaster and been skimmed and artexed becuse its cracked and knackered bonding out and skimming will just put more weight on the celing and pull it down and crack in weeks.
if the artex is new build on boards (that have been screwed up) then it will take the weight.
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