Urgent Render help needed!!!

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peck

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Hi,
I m pretty in expierenced when it comes to rendering, so generally steer clear of it. However, on the very few occasions that i have had to do a bit i ve used the guide that church (i think...) put up on here, and have never had any problems.
However, i ve done a small is area 3x3m max on the side of a house that i was doing a lot of overboarding and skimming in and it s gone proper tits up.
I applied a scratch coat of 1;3 with 3in 1 waterproofer gauged exactly as instructed and with fibres. I then left it to cure for 5 days before returning to top coat. Top coat went on 1;2;8 again with fibres, floated up and sponge finished, looked fine. However when i went back a week later the topcoat was cracked and hollow in some places, totally crap:RpS_crying:.
It was much worse at the bottom of the area with no cracks higher up, it s generally a shaded area and it s been cool and damp so im pretty sure it s not been got by the sun.
I ve hacked off all the topcoat ready to re-apply and put in some extra scoring to key to with the grinder, but am worried because i don t actually know why it went and what to do to prevent a repeat:confused:. I was planning to damp down, then prime with sbr/cemant before applying the topcoat again, with more fibres and slightly tighter ( the previous one was upto 10mm in places).
Can anyone offer any advice/ reasons as to why it blew? I did nt damp the scratch coat down much as id used waterproofer in it to control suction.
I really need to get it done tomorrow so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Greg
 
Very weak and strange ratio for the top coat mate.

Just do 1 cement: 1 lime: 3.5 plastering sand: 0.5 river/grit sand
 
thanks danny,
would you give it a prime of sbr or just wet down a little before re-applying the topcoat?
 
1 part cementone freeflow to 30 water. So you reckon it was just my top coat mix too weak? Think I must have misread it when I looked at the guide (by Essex Andy not church)
 
Could have been. I'm guessing that the scratch will now be a bit dusty and you haven't put much waterproofer in so I would water down some sbr. About 3 parts water to 1 part sbr, and roller it on the scratch before you top it off.
Make sure you put a small amount of river sand in with the plastering sand, it's what gives it strength. You need a varied sand size and shape to bind.
 
To weak and to thick. All the water goes to the bottom and at 10 mm it will shrink to bugger on drying. My mix would be 5 or 6 plastering sand to 1 cement with febmix. Apply 6mm thick.
 
During your apprenticeship you must have come across problems such as tis in the past and your plastering boss would have been pointing out where you were going wrong ????.

Id phone him and give him. A bollockin for not showing you mix/backing ratios in the years you were with him
 
I m afraid asking my former boss would nt have been an option, I served my time as a bricklayer (2 day course, not the full 5) and the only time i saw him rendering he put scratch and top on in the same afternoon....
Thanks for all the advice though, i ve re done it today 1;1;5, fibres, tighter coat and an sbr prime, so fingers crossed. If not i ll be going back and trying again.
 
Could have been. I'm guessing that the scratch will now be a bit dusty and you haven't put much waterproofer in so I would water down some sbr. About 3 parts water to 1 part sbr, and roller it on the scratch before you top it off.
Make sure you put a small amount of river sand in with the plastering sand, it's what gives it strength. You need a varied sand size and shape to bind.
Does Jewson, TP and the like sell river sand Danny, just never seen it sold or even heard of people using it for rendering
 
Does Jewson, TP and the like sell river sand Danny, just never seen it sold or even heard of people using it for rendering
until a few years ago they dredged sand out of our local river ,the stour, it was green in colour at first but turned yellow when it had laid in the sun. it was a sharpe sand ideal for floor screeding.
 
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