OK Young lad...
You first have to assess how thick your EPS will have be to 50mm is the norm but the architect should specify this to up the thermal value of the property... dont spec it yourself as if it fails you are up the swannee without a paddle and it will cost you big style if you have to rip it off and start again.
But basically
1. You stick the EPS onto the wall ( staggered like brickwork) using the same stuff as the base coat. I would go for Parex Maite as you just add water... other systems require adding cement (Dryvit Systems Do) you can either dot and dab these on or use a notched trowel like tilers use, then you put 8 mechanical fixings per board the day after you have stuck the EPS.
2. Then you rasp all the EPS with a diamond float to get it on a level plane.
3. Then you apply the base coat (Parex Maite) 2-3mm maximum... whilst wet you embed fibre glass mesh into the base coat covering the whole building and allowing a 20-30 cm overlap on each level... make sure there are no lines, or snags on this coat... this is very important because the top coat will only be 1-2mm maximum and any iregulatities in the base coat will show through the top coat.
4. When the base coat is set (24 hours minimum) this is when you apply finish... but first check and double check base coat and if any lines or bumps... take a carborundum to it and smooth it out.
5. When applying top coat you simply scrape it on as tight as you can get it... this is governed by the grit size in the acrilic... then once you have started putting the top coat on have some ne behind you rubbing it up using a plastic float in circular motion (allways in the same direction) so if you start it clockwise... do it all clock wise
heres a standard spec
https://washoe.parex.com/specs/PSSS.pdf
here is a application method
https://www.dspinspections.com/eifs_facts.htm
But this is just a guide you have to take into account window sealing, wheter you are using a rail system etc etc