THERMAL RENDER ?

Members online

Total: 609 (members: 5, guests: 604)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
K

kirk johnstone

Private Member
got a phone call over the weekend and this fella i have done loads of work in the past for asked me if i could render the gable side of one of his houses for him, but then he went on to say some mate of his is a surveyor and he recomends i use thermal render.

i have never used anything apart from sand and cement and lime so if any of you guys know any more on this stuff, please let me know ;)
 
hola kirk
he wants an eifs system (External Insulated Finishing System) like on my site here http://eifssystems.co.uk/System_Details.html

there are quite a few manufacturers out there like Parex, or Dryvit who supply the materials, then you just put a 2-3mm agrilic finish over the base coat which has the glass fibre mesh embedded into it...
 
aarrr render just the man i was wanting to talk too, how fukin hell are you my mate? now this top coat your talking about... how do i finish it?

infact can you explain the whole process start to finish please mate?

sorry to be a pain but i think your the best guy to explain it ;)
 
OK Young lad...

You first have to assess how thick your EPS will have be to 50mm is the norm but the architect should specify this to up the thermal value of the property... dont spec it yourself as if it fails you are up the swannee without a paddle and it will cost you big style if you have to rip it off and start again.
But basically
1. You stick the EPS onto the wall ( staggered like brickwork) using the same stuff as the base coat. I would go for Parex Maite as you just add water... other systems require adding cement (Dryvit Systems Do) you can either dot and dab these on or use a notched trowel like tilers use, then you put 8 mechanical fixings per board the day after you have stuck the EPS.
2. Then you rasp all the EPS with a diamond float to get it on a level plane.
3. Then you apply the base coat (Parex Maite) 2-3mm maximum... whilst wet you embed fibre glass mesh into the base coat covering the whole building and allowing a 20-30 cm overlap on each level... make sure there are no lines, or snags on this coat... this is very important because the top coat will only be 1-2mm maximum and any iregulatities in the base coat will show through the top coat.
4. When the base coat is set (24 hours minimum) this is when you apply finish... but first check and double check base coat and if any lines or bumps... take a carborundum to it and smooth it out.
5. When applying top coat you simply scrape it on as tight as you can get it... this is governed by the grit size in the acrilic... then once you have started putting the top coat on have some ne behind you rubbing it up using a plastic float in circular motion (allways in the same direction) so if you start it clockwise... do it all clock wise

heres a standard spec http://washoe.parex.com/specs/PSSS.pdf

here is a application method http://www.dspinspections.com/eifs_facts.htm

But this is just a guide you have to take into account window sealing, wheter you are using a rail system etc etc
 
just wandered coz when u put the base coat on its quite thin and ur top coat is thin, so in that case u only have about 4mm covering
 
haha. i'd love it if you rang them up and said hi can i order some mononow cowshee please?
 
the beads are thincoat plastic with fibreglass mesh on them and render means plastic trowel refina sell them
 
grand wizard said:
the beads are thincoat plastic with fibreglass mesh on them and render means plastic trowel refina sell them
Click to expand...

do you mean i need a plastic trowel to put it on with? why cant i use my stainless? do you still rub up with polly float?

cheers grand :)
 
not flexible enough it would flatten it too much its a texture finish determined by grain size
 
no problem there are loads of systems out there marmorit weber sto allsecco alumasc dryvit jub basically the same
 
make sure you leave the mesh coat long enough to cure ,if you top coat too soon and the mesh coat isnt dry it can discolour.
 
to much friction with a poly and a bit clumsy for thin coat finishes. you can pick up a plastic float from a few merchants round our way
 
its not mono. if you go for eps thermal put your beads on after you rasp the eps (polystyrene or can be wool slab but I personally prefer eps) the beads are made for thin coat syatems and have a wide fibre mesh wing, fully bed them on and you coat tham up fully also then when you mesh through they gain from an extra coat of base giving a nice surface then when your silicone/acrylic finish goes on you will have a nice square corner with no profile show
 
oh yeah and when you do the finish coat make sure you got enough hands on deck to control the area you are doing always maintaining a wet edge as you rub up
 
Kirk, this sort of finish will get more popular as time goes by because of the need for better U-values of existing housing stock and it's the perfect system to go over cement boards on timber frame's too. Oh and it's cowin lush to apply and finish :)
 
plaster it means it's really f**k**g sexy f**k**g cunting bastarding f**k**g extremely f**k**g unbelievably f**k**g cunting awesomely f**k**g really cowin lush :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top