Tapit tape external render review

Ftp321

Well-Known Member




I'm stating the obvious with this review, and already knew what was going to happen but to help tapit out this was my verdict,

Winged/mesh beads are used on lots of my work that include ewi and carrier board so it's a nonstarter as the fitting process needs to be done with render,
Every stop abutment on a render system needs a stop/ bell cast bead the obvious issue is that you can only apply the tape to the one and only fixing point of the bead meaning it will just flap around these beads need fixing with an adhesive or mechanically fixing to be held in situ,

This brings us to angle spine beads used on render only systems brick and block construction the problem on this type of construction external window reveals are generally no more than 50 ml in most cases less, I have to trim the internal corner meaning there isn't enough room for a fixing point for the tape inside the reveal so can only be fixed on the outer edge meaning flappy beads again,

Most brick and blockwork is sloppy and beading requires bedding out to create plumb and level lines and allowing one bead edge to meet the other the only way this can be achieved with the tape is to use Packers which would be completely insane for obvious reasons,
An 8-ft stop bead for instance apply your adhesive bed your bead if it's out a bit put your level on tap it into place 2 seconds,
With the tape it becomes right ball ache if it's out having to to peel the tape off and move the bead and start again,
The tapes addition performance on old brick and new blockwork was very poor or non-existent,

That all said I'm not saying that isn't a market for it internally as a general construction tape,
I'm sorry it's a s*** review but it's my honest opinion, I genuinely do wish you all the best with it tapit and hope it works out for you.
20201217_084552.jpg
 

tapit

Well-Known Member
No surprise there Tom ,
tapit I'm surprised you wasted a sample , only suitable for internal PB and only if no dubbing out required so @algeeman is your last hope , did you send him a complimentary case of Stella ?
It was designed for reskims so new work would be a bonus.
site work is all about the speed, staples are fast but can be a bit hit and miss on board and not hold back as tight as tape.
 

Ftp321

Well-Known Member
@Tom81 with window reveals can you not use a stop bead instead of corner bead and set it forward
from the face of brickwork to thickness of your render.
This would save having to trim angle bead down?
You can but it's not good practice the corner won't be as structurally sound as a corner bead, and say for instance it's a 15 mil stop bead you've got 15 mm of PVC on a corner revealed which looks s*** on mono and thin coat and paint doesn't adhere too well to PVC
 

bof

Well-Known Member
It was designed for reskims so new work would be a bonus.
site work is all about the speed, staples are fast but can be a bit hit and miss on board and not hold back as tight as tape.
The trouble on reskim is beads often need dubbing out
 

bof

Well-Known Member
You'll need tape at each end and every .4/.5 between to hold secure , so individual 2" tapes at 18/24 per window , price is going to be high
 

themucky1

Well-Known Member
View attachment 56795
View attachment 56794
View attachment 56793
View attachment 56792
I'm stating the obvious with this review, and already knew what was going to happen but to help tapit out this was my verdict,

Winged/mesh beads are used on lots of my work that include ewi and carrier board so it's a nonstarter as the fitting process needs to be done with render,
Every stop abutment on a render system needs a stop/ bell cast bead the obvious issue is that you can only apply the tape to the one and only fixing point of the bead meaning it will just flap around these beads need fixing with an adhesive or mechanically fixing to be held in situ,

This brings us to angle spine beads used on render only systems brick and block construction the problem on this type of construction external window reveals are generally no more than 50 ml in most cases less, I have to trim the internal corner meaning there isn't enough room for a fixing point for the tape inside the reveal so can only be fixed on the outer edge meaning flappy beads again,

Most brick and blockwork is sloppy and beading requires bedding out to create plumb and level lines and allowing one bead edge to meet the other the only way this can be achieved with the tape is to use Packers which would be completely insane for obvious reasons,
An 8-ft stop bead for instance apply your adhesive bed your bead if it's out a bit put your level on tap it into place 2 seconds,
With the tape it becomes right ball ache if it's out having to to peel the tape off and move the bead and start again,
The tapes addition performance on old brick and new blockwork was very poor or non-existent,
View attachment 56791
That all said I'm not saying that isn't a market for it internally as a general construction tape,
I'm sorry it's a s*** review but it's my honest opinion, I genuinely do wish you all the best with it tapit and hope it works out for you. View attachment 56796
I’d have given it neck after the first video lol
 

Cockney1

Well-Known Member
View attachment 56795
View attachment 56794
View attachment 56793
View attachment 56792
I'm stating the obvious with this review, and already knew what was going to happen but to help tapit out this was my verdict,

Winged/mesh beads are used on lots of my work that include ewi and carrier board so it's a nonstarter as the fitting process needs to be done with render,
Every stop abutment on a render system needs a stop/ bell cast bead the obvious issue is that you can only apply the tape to the one and only fixing point of the bead meaning it will just flap around these beads need fixing with an adhesive or mechanically fixing to be held in situ,

This brings us to angle spine beads used on render only systems brick and block construction the problem on this type of construction external window reveals are generally no more than 50 ml in most cases less, I have to trim the internal corner meaning there isn't enough room for a fixing point for the tape inside the reveal so can only be fixed on the outer edge meaning flappy beads again,

Most brick and blockwork is sloppy and beading requires bedding out to create plumb and level lines and allowing one bead edge to meet the other the only way this can be achieved with the tape is to use Packers which would be completely insane for obvious reasons,
An 8-ft stop bead for instance apply your adhesive bed your bead if it's out a bit put your level on tap it into place 2 seconds,
With the tape it becomes right ball ache if it's out having to to peel the tape off and move the bead and start again,
The tapes addition performance on old brick and new blockwork was very poor or non-existent,
View attachment 56791
That all said I'm not saying that isn't a market for it internally as a general construction tape,
I'm sorry it's a s*** review but it's my honest opinion, I genuinely do wish you all the best with it tapit and hope it works out for you. View attachment 56796
10 out of 10 for effort mate!
That shite wouldn’t hold a nats cock up.
 

Rossi46

Private Member
It’s skins over fast. When you’ve pushed your beads into it if you run a scraper over it a couple of times it’s busking already. 5 minutes it’s nice and tight, 1 hour it’s solid, 24hrs you won’t get it off.
 

bof

Well-Known Member
It’s skins over fast. When you’ve pushed your beads into it if you run a scraper over it a couple of times it’s busking already. 5 minutes it’s nice and tight, 1 hour it’s solid, 24hrs you won’t get it off.
I assume you use it for render or float and set , what about boards
 

Olican

Private Member
I've never used it , usually push beads into first coat , how long does it take to set ?
Good tip I learned off here is neat mastercrete with a blob of sbr , makes a lovely putty that sets really quick and beads don't slump. It's like a grab adhesive for beads
 

bof

Well-Known Member
Good tip I learned off here is neat mastercrete with a blob of sbr , makes a lovely putty that sets really quick and beads don't slump. It's like a grab adhesive for beads
I'm out of the render game oli , sounds good to me , I use to push into my scratch coat and never found it a problem to set beads , my dad would mail into motar and if I wasn't happy they would mysteriously be knocked off by a careless site worker
Internals I'd float with a straight edge and stick a skim bead into first skim coat
 

Ftp321

Well-Known Member
Same as grip fill, same product except for pink dye.
Brilliant marketing and sold out when launched.
It ain't the same mate it definitely performs different I don't find gripfill nowhere near as good as pink grip
 
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