Studwalls - plywood and plasterboard

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mo7

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I am having some stud walls built. I have a big thing abotu soundproofing so will be putting in accoustic mineralwool between the studs and then using accoustic plasterboard or double boarding.

It has been suggested I add in plywood - this seems more for stability reasons but would aid soundproofing of course.

I just wondered whether it was common for this to happen? I suppose as plasterers you may have to attach the plasterboard to the ply - come across this often?
 
Only where it was needed structurally for supporting trusses or perhaps where kitchen cupboards were to hang as a pattress. It's not a bad idea but ply isnt cheap and can add quite a bit to the build.

I'd still mark where the studs are under the ply and screw into them.
 
I did a job for a chap a few years ago who built all the studwork from 6x2 CLS, and lined it with 18mm t&g flooring followed by 12.5 fire line. He said that he wanted the walls strong enough so that if he punched them, his fist wouldn't go through.
 
I did a job for a chap a few years ago who built all the studwork from 6x2 CLS, and lined it with 18mm t&g flooring followed by 12.5 fire line. He said that he wanted the walls strong enough so that if he punched them, his fist wouldn't go through.
fcuk me who was it Popeye haha
 
I am having some stud walls built. I have a big thing abotu soundproofing so will be putting in accoustic mineralwool between the studs and then using accoustic plasterboard or double boarding.

It has been suggested I add in plywood - this seems more for stability reasons but would aid soundproofing of course.

I just wondered whether it was common for this to happen? I suppose as plasterers you may have to attach the plasterboard to the ply - come across this often?

Resilient bars .
 
I did this on a new build bungalow a year or two ago,the customer wanted it for fixing purposes,as far as acoustic properties I imaging it will add to the acoustic insulation and board,just as anything dense will do.also as Danny Mac says mark the studs and screw through the ply and into them.:RpS_thumbup:
 
I did a job for a chap a few years ago who built all the studwork from 6x2 CLS, and lined it with 18mm t&g flooring followed by 12.5 fire line. He said that he wanted the walls strong enough so that if he punched them, his fist wouldn't go through.

Who was the job for, mike Tyson?
@Arti said the same thing when doing his house. Hence why he used 9.5mm boards that had been left out in the rain overnight
 
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For serious sound reduction you need to build two stud walls with a 50mm gap between the two stud leaves. The sound deadening insulation goes in the gap between the leaves and then fire check or acoustic boards on each outer face.

As with heat transfer, sound waves travel easier through solid material. So if you can separate the two solid faces with something that absorbs the vibration it's much more effective than insulating between studs which will transfer sound.
 
For serious sound reduction you need to build two stud walls with a 50mm gap between the two stud leaves. The sound deadening insulation goes in the gap between the leaves and then fire check or acoustic boards on each outer face.

As with heat transfer, sound waves travel easier through solid material. So if you can separate the two solid faces with something that absorbs the vibration it's much more effective than insulating between studs which will transfer sound.

For my purposes 2 studs walls would be overkill as you would lose too much space with 2x4 9or whatever the standard UK thing is) - what are the smaller thicknes studs I could use? You then have problems I spose with stability.

So guess if you use ply you screw it into the studs and then plasterboard scews into that (rather than dot and dab) - so in theory that would leave quite a solid surface to fix things to?

So I could use smaller studs but beef it up with ply or would you need reasonably big studs to hold the ply?

How thick ply?
 
Use 75 x 50 mm used with the 50 mm sides as the thickness which with the 50 mm gap would give you 150mm plus boards and skim, so 180 mm overall thickness.

The issue really is the physics involved, you can't have a thin soundproofed wall. So whatever you (or anyone else) do will need to be a compromise between the holy trinity of building work, requirements, space, and money.
 
The specs for a lot of hospitals etc I've worked on was usually 70mm stud, then 15mm ply then 15mm boards, so yea ply is used a lot but it's more for strengh than sound
 
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