Hi new to plastering was just wondering whether there were any tips on how to straighten a wall up quicker and easier at the moment im just laying it on reasonably thick an wet pulling the straight over blobbing the little crators then pulling the straight back over, id be gratefull for any input, thanks adam
Straightening tips for rendering/ two coat
- Thread starter Phatboi
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Nisus
Elite Member
Yeah :RpS_thumbup:
Roofer2plasterer
Member
Helpful as usual eh? Don't put it on to thick, about 10-15mm is ample, use a feather edge or darby to straighten up, fill in hollows as u say and when it's pulled in enough rub up with wood or poly float and then sponge to finish if external or use a devil float if internal for key to skim later on. If your new u should be using dab and screed as floating is a difficult skill to master!
chesterplas
New Member
i learnt by doing like a 2ft screed across the top and same at bottom, if u knw what i mean, then rule up, then fill middle in and rule across, then fill in holes and rule both ways, hope that helps
are you going 2 tile the wall.is that how you want it strait if so you could dryline it=dot and dab
Arti
Well-Known Member
Last edited:
What's he messin about with that for,obviously got no idea what he is doin.knob.
bubblebobble
Member
Well,
firstly I would learn how to use a Darby and Feather edge successfully, you can fill 90% of the hollows with those without even picking the trowel back up, just roll the render back on and use a lapping action as you go. If you get my meaning.
Also I would recommend filling any initial hollows first, then apply a tight scratch coat to unify the suction also please key it properly; it is one of my pet hates to see the scratch coat with names written in or just not uni-formally scratched. It does make a difference to the top coat especially if you need to get on it early with the float .
ALWAYS top it with a light sponge to make it perfect. I use a Gyproc jointing sponge in a very very light figure of 8 motion so as not to upset or pull the render, but thats just me.
firstly I would learn how to use a Darby and Feather edge successfully, you can fill 90% of the hollows with those without even picking the trowel back up, just roll the render back on and use a lapping action as you go. If you get my meaning.
Also I would recommend filling any initial hollows first, then apply a tight scratch coat to unify the suction also please key it properly; it is one of my pet hates to see the scratch coat with names written in or just not uni-formally scratched. It does make a difference to the top coat especially if you need to get on it early with the float .
ALWAYS top it with a light sponge to make it perfect. I use a Gyproc jointing sponge in a very very light figure of 8 motion so as not to upset or pull the render, but thats just me.
NPS
Private Member
that is rate stuff!!!! i use it all the time now
That was extremely painful to watch his apparent second coat so was soooo uneven and loads of trowel lines in it and when he kept going over it he never took out the lines lol
Leeshawuk1
New Member
Is it just me that thinks he can't even get the stuff off his handboard properly haha
innovativeplastering
New Member
Spot on this is what a plastering forum is for ( GOOD ADVICE ) Plastering is an art you have to enjoy it to be good at it there are no books dvds or short cuts patience is a virtue and your def need it
C
CHRIS04
Guest
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