Sto render or jub render

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ScottishAl7

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Hi

I have had 2 quotes to redo the render on my home. One contractor has quoted Sto render and the other Jub render.

Can anyone tell me if one is better than the other?


Thanks
 
Haven't used either but there are plenty that have on here, hang around you'll have your answer soon enough :RpS_thumbsup:


Where are you from my love? :RpS_thumbup:
 
I only used Sto in Germany and was good but its expensive. Why not save and have it done in sand/cement ?? :RpS_confused:
 
I have used both. Both are good gear. Big price difference though. Sto being higher. And im very sure you have to be approved for sto
 
Sto is very good but not as good as sto say (we are the best).
There are equally good if not even better products out there and they are cheaper.

You won't go far wrong with either. Likewise Parex, Knauf marmorit etc...

The certified and bba systems are pretty much all the same. Preference in most cases comes down to ease of use/application
 
This is being used to cover existing Weber render which has issues in places. The house is timber frame so we have been advised not to remove the majority but overcoat the whole house once the problem areas have been sorted. There is very little difference in the quotes to be honest!
 
Then ask to look at some other similar type jobs they have done and make your decision from there :RpS_thumbup:
 
ScottishAl7 said:
This is being used to cover existing Weber render which has issues in places. The house is timber frame so we have been advised not to remove the majority but overcoat the whole house once the problem areas have been sorted. There is very little difference in the quotes to be honest!
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Can the existing Weber render be painted or is it that bad :RpS_crying:
 
richardbrown said:
Go for the sto render. They are your Audi with Jub being the ford fiesta
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Your a jobsworth you are @richardbrown

What are the issues mate? Is it render onto boards?

Main concern on a timber frame is that the correct spec system as apposed to cost.

Also Sto UK don't make all their own stuff...
 
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There was an issue with the corner beads so the original render was too thin and most of it has come off so rather than patch it all it has been suggested to overcoat the house. The original render is only three years old.
 
there isn't any difference in the product just different suppliers(makers) sto and 1 or 2 others u need to have licences to buy there products and use so u get there guarantee where others r cheaper alternative but similar finishes. u been recommended these as thin coat render and other sort of renders system will b to heavy to go straight over so means u have to wire over or hack off.
 
All basically the same . And that comparison that @richardbrown makes is absolute pap. But I do think marmorit and parex are the more refined system but not as cost effective . We're using so silicone at min against Jub sil an it's Jub all the way in my book
 
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warriorupnorth said:
All basically the same . And that comparison that @richardbrown makes is absolute pap. But I do think marmorit and parex are the more refined system but not as cost effective . We're using so silicone at min against Jub sil an it's Jub all the way in my book
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Im with you on that one. Used marmorit when started managing eco before got introduced to steve (southern craig) marmorit is lovely basecoats but price and deliveries were pain in arse. Two week delivery withe different lorry for different component
 
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sto has a good name and is known to be expensive. Never used it but I have used Jub and as bucket coats go it is one of my favourites.
 
There all pretty much the same to be honest. But most specs you'll get it will say sto render, so you just change the spec
 
You say a problem with the bead because the render was too thin ?

Over a timber frame I imagine you had a cavity and render board so the type of render that goes over that would be a thin coat system with around 5/6mm thickness Max.

Were they mesh corner beads or standard upvc corners.

Maybe you had weber m1 mineral polymer which I have heard is problematic where used in place of a ho polymer thin Coat.
M1 should be 15mm
 
Hi

It was Weber Pral m or something that was used, which should have had a minimum finished thickness of 15mm, but the original contractor used a powder coated metal bead which only allowed about 3 mm thickness as it approached all the corners, hence they all failed!
 
ScottishAl7 said:
Hi

It was Weber Pral m or something that was used, which should have had a minimum finished thickness of 15mm, but the original contractor used a powder coated metal bead which only allowed about 3 mm thickness as it approached all the corners, hence they all failed!
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Put some pics up , that way you should receive some solid and accurate advice then.
 
If it's render board vented over timber frame then pral m is the wrong product. I would consult weber and get them back to sort it
 
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