Sticking heads to lintel and polystyrene

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stevo2011

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Normally glue up with board adhesive no probs, but just stuck one up in a bathroom I'm doing and the cun£ come unstuck on me!

Now I'm wondering if sticks like **** or gripfill would be better? Will the solvents melt the polystyrene?

Anyone have a solution? It's gonna be tiled on so some extra weight will be on it!

Think maybe it happened coz I'm using knaff instead of bg

Cheers fellas
 
Any solvents will melt polystyrene ! so fix with tile adhesive ,and you could put a few screws in with washers ss as well IMO .
 
Sometimes I spread the adhesive on first let it go off then dab my board on after its gone off or other times I cut the wall first the dab my revels after so the revel sticks to the board and the lintel
 
With lintels I usually run over them with awry brush think it helps to have a little less suction. Polystyrene don't think I have ever tried to stick to, especially with added weight of tiles??

Why is there polystyrene?
 
If it's polystyrene backed board and not therma boards try solvite it worked wonders on poly ceiling tiles and if you remember the advert it stuck that fella in the white boiler suit to a sheeet of ply nee botha :rolleyes)
 
seriously though i ain't ever dabbed with poly backed boards and if i remember rightly the bumf on the bags of knaff adhesive says it is only for use on therma boards ?
 
one is covered with wot looks like re-cycled styrofoam cups and the other with a high density foam and the poly one is cheaper than the other. knaff boards with the foam are stamped therma and the ones with poly are not so to be on the safe side i have never dabbed with then more out of paranoia than owt else !
 
I think the guy is talking about the Catnic lintels that have the polystyrene running along the back of them.
Personally I've never had any problem working over the poly either with board adhesive or when floating with S&C. As mentioned by others try spreading a tight coat over the lintel first, making sure to push it both into the holes at the front of the lintel and well into the poly at the back.
Then again any spread should already know this so if you didn't leave to someone who does and if you did know, well at a loss as to why you're having issues.
 
Cut your board for the head short by 10mm on the length, run a thin continuous dab along the head, offer your board up and then move it from left to right a few times and it will create a suction, dab your reveals next, also supporting your head.
 
Cut your board for the head short by 10mm on the length, run a thin continuous dab along the head, offer your board up and then move it from left to right a few times and it will create a suction, dab your reveals next, also supporting your head.

It should always be a continuous dab of adhesive on both heads and reveals anyway.
 
Try a bonding agent first with thistle bond or WBA . Gorilla glue also works a treat thers nothing it don't stick
 
Try a bonding agent first with thistle bond or WBA . Gorilla glue also works a treat thers nothing it don't stick

Bought some gorilla glue recently to fix a plazziflex. Worked a treat. Now to stick my mates butty box lid shut!
 
Cheers for the input guys,

Andy yes it is a catnic lintel.
Like I said I've never had a problem before, anyway went and got a bag of bg adhesive and no problem!

I won't be using knauf again, gonna check the date on the empty bag as maybe out of date?

But thanks everyone!!!
 
Thanks Andy, i don't remember saying that they shouldn't be..

Sorry mate offence meant, it's just that what you described is just the bog standard method for heads (which is probably why we don't suffer these problems).
Out of interest how many of you actually put the dab line onto the head? I always put the adhesive onto the board.
 
Sorry mate offence meant, it's just that what you described is just the bog standard method for heads (which is probably why we don't suffer these problems).
Out of interest how many of you actually put the dab line onto the head? I always put the adhesive onto the board.
You don't have to solid dab you can solid dab the boards you're placing in front of the reveals
 
You don't have to solid dab you can solid dab the boards you're placing in front of the reveals

I haven't got the white book handy but I know when my son did his day with BG they said solid on reveals and around any opening, the same as I'd always thought.
 
That's what I thought obviously you don't put one either end you put enough on to make sure it's on there but I got pulled by it and was told to put a solid dab around the reveals and heads on the wall not the reveals the actual wall and that would be ok, it's not to hold the boards it's to prevent something that I don't know what it is lol
 
If im supplying then a 6x3 gets 3 rows of 4 and an 8x4 gets 3 rows of 5. Reveals and such get them where required and obviousley perimiter of sockets and plumbing.

Anywhere else is a luxury or is because some bodys watching me.

However on my self taken photo for my mickey mouse nvq 1 8x4 had about a bags worth. Full perimiter of board and just about continios down centre. Would withstand an earthquake!!!

Zombie:rolleyes)
 
lol....I hate it when im thinking great il just about get them last couple of bits up with that gobbo...then customer or builder walks in room and have to start putting more addy on than f***n plaster board!

Have known some people to then start removing the dabs again when theve walked back out the room! lol
:rolleyes):flapper:
 
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