Spot board

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Captaincaveman

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I have no doubt that in the considerable amount of time that has passed since I made a living out of plastering things have probably changed (rather like calling your hawk a handboard).
I am doing some paid work (for the first time ever) for my in laws. Looking around for a spot board at home I spied a piece of PVCU window board. Seemed ideal. 600mm wide by about 1200mm long so I thought why not? It was just the right size to fit over the two carpenters horses I had. It also had two returns on the edge to stop it from falling off them. Being PVCU it is light to carry about and also easy to clean off.
So my question is...................have any of you tried this and if not what do you use??
I'm also really p****d off that I missed out on my millions in tool manufacturing.:RpS_crying: I was putting bicycle inner tubes on my trowel handles back in the 80's but that is another story. :RpS_laugh:
 
Mines a thick marine ply 10 years n still going well with which jus goes on a normal spot stand
 
Mine is marine ply covered with a thin layer of alloy. It wraps around the edges and underneath the bottom.
 
maybe we should have a show and tell section...................:RpS_thumbup:
 
Please see the photo below for the sheet aluminium used in the spot board construction. It is 1.2 mm thick and is pure aluminium to allow it to bend around the edges of the board. However, it also needs to be aircraft grade because it is much harder than standard aluminium.

alu.JPEG


The process is as follows:

1) Cut board to size, I like to use 18mm marine ply.
2) Attach guide rails to board and use a router to create a 1.2 mm recess on the underside edge of the board. This allows for a flush join between the ply and aluminium.
3) Use contact adhesive to bond the aluminium to the surface of the ply.
4) Use tin snips to cut a 45 degree angle on each edge.
5) Score along the edges with a hobby knife, apply contact adhesive and bend the aluminium over the four edges.
6) Score the the underside edges, apply contact adhesive and now finally bend into the recess.
 
Please see the photo below for the sheet aluminium used in the spot board construction. It is 1.2 mm thick and is pure aluminium to allow it to bend around the edges of the board. However, it also needs to be aircraft grade because it is much harder than standard aluminium.

alu.JPEG


The process is as follows:

1) Cut board to size, I like to use 18mm marine ply.
2) Attach guide rails to board and use a router to create a 1.2 mm recess on the underside edge of the board. This allows for a flush join between the ply and aluminium.
3) Use contact adhesive to bond the aluminium to the surface of the ply.
4) Use tin snips to cut a 45 degree angle on each edge.
5) Score along the edges with a hobby knife, apply contact adhesive and bend the aluminium over the four edges.
6) Score the the underside edges, apply contact adhesive and now finally bend into the recess.

You know I wouldn't expect anything less from you dr minge....

Who would be using aircraft grade aluminium for a spot board!

you are the over engineering queen Minh :RpS_thumbsup:

let me guess you built the badminton racket to withstand a nuke ;)
 
Aluminium! I just staple the 2mm proplex(antinox) to mine, lasts a good 6weeks, costs around £3 sheet and a sheet will cover a board twice, fix both peices from new when the top one is done just peel and your next layer is there ready.
 
Well as stated somewhere else mine is an old folding card table wi apiece o ply screwed t the top and in reserve i have a formica topped folding caravan dining table which if i'm honest i only use on special occasions as with most things in life it's not wot u got but how you use it that counts :RpS_lol: :RpS_lol: :RpS_lol:
 
Please see the photo below for the sheet aluminium used in the spot board construction. It is 1.2 mm thick and is pure aluminium to allow it to bend around the edges of the board. However, it also needs to be aircraft grade because it is much harder than standard aluminium.

alu.JPEG


The process is as follows:

1) Cut board to size, I like to use 18mm marine ply.
2) Attach guide rails to board and use a router to create a 1.2 mm recess on the underside edge of the board. This allows for a flush join between the ply and aluminium.
3) Use contact adhesive to bond the aluminium to the surface of the ply.
4) Use tin snips to cut a 45 degree angle on each edge.
5) Score along the edges with a hobby knife, apply contact adhesive and bend the aluminium over the four edges.
6) Score the the underside edges, apply contact adhesive and now finally bend into the recess.

The process is as follows:
1) Cut board to size, use 18mm marine ply. Ignore the rest FFS, you're on a plastering job not in Ramseys' fkin kitchen.

Is the badminton racket for a quick game between 'laying down lines' ?
 
The process is as follows:
1) Cut board to size, use 18mm marine ply. Ignore the rest FFS, you're on a plastering job not in Ramseys' fkin kitchen.

Is the badminton racket for a quick game between 'laying down lines' ?

And I'd just add.
Ditch the 18mm marine ply (heavy and expensive) and replace with 9mm ply.
These spot boards usually last me about three years of hard floating or, well God knows how many years of setting.
 
And I'd just add.
Ditch the 18mm marine ply (heavy and expensive) and replace with 9mm ply.
These spot boards usually last me about three years of hard floating or, well God knows how many years of setting.
Yeah I was going to say! 18mm a bit overkill, I only ever use 9 maybe 12, just whatever I can pick up off site.
 
And I'd just add.
Ditch the 18mm marine ply (heavy and expensive) and replace with 9mm ply.
These spot boards usually last me about three years of hard floating or, well God knows how many years of setting.

They are heavy............I remember dropping one onto the next lift on a dashing job and it bounced straight through a window which turned out to be the bedroom window of a flat and the couple were still in bed, I'm quite sure I spoiled their lurv session :RpS_unsure:
 
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