Some advice please on K Rend on painted brickwork

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Rogerg

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Hi Guys
Wondered if someone could give some guidance,60's house,previous owner painted external walls,brick,with Dulux weather shield a brown colour.
Sandblasting will be too messy given the colour and proximity of neighbours and painted brickwork just doesn't look smart.
I have been advised to use a monocouche and have had 2 quotes so far,one very costly the second not as bad,have been told it needs 2 coats,the first a latex and then the K rend.
I am concerned about the mixed reviews in here,some people rave about it,others woulnt touch with a bargepole.Problems with cracking,discolouration,algae.
Large areas 200 sq. metres.
Could someone please advise.
Cheers
Roger
 
first how much have you been quoted and at what spec?

yes there are other alternatives. over paint even at a good spec with a decent backing coat, mesh and fixings i do think its a lot of weight for paint to hold. there are lighterweight options. but it will come down to cost and finish also.

where are u based. there might be someone local to you on here
 
Hi Nick
Thanks for getting back to me so quick.Best so far is 9K,includes scaffold and some chopping off of render on 1 wall.
I am just outside Guildford.
 
if the paints solid you can give it a coat of rendaid then finish it ,or you can fix wire cup brushes on a 4inch angle grinder and go over the painted area then give it a coat of rendaid then finish
 
It is risky putting on so much weight on what is a water proof paint. Anything wet touching weathershield and the paint should repel it so in my mind it is a non stick surface? True there are some resins out there that will stick to clean and sound paint and the polymer modified base renders will stick to the resin but the last layer of paint is holding the lot!

There is of course Riblath which is a damn good render carrier and you could go from there. But even with this the render is not stuck to the substrate but embedded in the riblath which is hanging on to the wall. I would prefer cleaning off the paint and applying a resin or perhaps a roller stippled rend aid or equivalent then applying rib lath tight as. Hopefully the render gets pushed through the riblath and adheres to the rend-aid but if the paint fail then you have the riblath to rely on. And i would fully mesh the first coat of mono.

But saying that I could get the local village idiot to grind the paint off with an angle grinder. Give him £400 in hand and a couple of weeks the bricks will be virgin clay. Dust will be everywhere and the neighbours will get enviromental health in but we are get over it eventually.
 
What I do when there isn't much suction or key on external work is get a angle grinder and grind out joints between doesn't take very long and gives the render something to really bite(grab) too, currently doing this so if you want a picture posting just say and i'll give you a better idea of what i mean .
 
Best to speak to KRend ask them for a specification, last time I spoke to them they said, base coat with mesh embedded and mechanical fixings into the brickwork through the wall. Some might ay thats overkill but if your spending 9K you dont want it going wrong.
 
Rigsby said:
It is risky putting on so much weight on what is a water proof paint. Anything wet touching weathershield and the paint should repel it so in my mind it is a non stick surface? True there are some resins out there that will stick to clean and sound paint and the polymer modified base renders will stick to the resin but the last layer of paint is holding the lot!

There is of course Riblath which is a damn good render carrier and you could go from there. But even with this the render is not stuck to the substrate but embedded in the riblath which is hanging on to the wall. I would prefer cleaning off the paint and applying a resin or perhaps a roller stippled rend aid or equivalent then applying rib lath tight as. Hopefully the render gets pushed through the riblath and adheres to the rend-aid but if the paint fail then you have the riblath to rely on. And i would fully mesh the first coat of mono.

But saying that I could get the local village idiot to grind the paint off with an angle grinder. Give him £400 in hand and a couple of weeks the bricks will be virgin clay. Dust will be everywhere and the neighbours will get enviromental health in but we are get over it eventually.
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200m2 stainless riblath...not even worth thinking about.
 
AdcarPlastering said:
200m2 stainless riblath...not even worth thinking about.
Click to expand...

Yes it will cost a fortune!

I did a job last year a thin coat job over sound but old render (bare). 4-5mm meshed then pin the mesh and 1-2mm skim. Might work on paint, it certainly won't fall off it it fails just crack maybe.
 
That's it mate, I priced up 30m2 recently and customer almost passed out..it's not just the cost of the lath it's the fact it's a nightmare to fix so labour is high. Can't see a problem with fixings through mesh makes sense...
Parex have got their heads screwed on i'd ask them for a solution.
 
Parex have come up before,think I will take your advice here,once again thanks for taking the time to give some sound guidance
 
Phone Parex and ask who the rep is for your area, they may be able to help. Nothing wrong with KREND btw, I just find there technical support a bit useless!
 
nickelarse said:
first how much have you been quoted and at what spec?

yes there are other alternatives. over paint even at a good spec with a decent backing coat, mesh and fixings i do think its a lot of weight for paint to hold. there are lighterweight options. but it will come down to cost and finish also.

where are u based. there might be someone local to you on here
Click to expand...

Nice Reply Nick :) Very helpful :)

Danny

PS welcome to the forum :)
 
Rogerg said:
Hi Nick
Thanks for getting back to me so quick.Best so far is 9K,includes scaffold and some chopping off of render on 1 wall.
I am just outside Guildford.
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9k doesnt sound too bad if its being done right.

honestly if i were you, i would maybe put an add in the job ad section on here, there are a handfull of guys on here that are from london/kent. a lot of people on here work together and or know each other so you can ask people opinions if youre concerned. get someone to come by your house, have a look, give you a spec they would recommend after seeing it, which is a lot easier than by a description as there are many factors to consider. its another opinion then from someone thats been recommended. might give you some peace of mind. i would also speak to parex, they will give you a full spec on what they would suggest. sometimes it can be a little over the top but theyre product is good and theyre pretty helpful.

again failing that, if your after alternatives, which if it was my house i would be, then look into an acrylic finish. if you were to speak to someone like currierplastering on here, i think he is pretty local to you, and has all the kit to machine apply acrylics, which is a very nice finish. also water repelent as opposed to mono which absorbs, hence the staining. although you can seal mono, an acrylic system is literally at minimum 10 times lighter which maybe be pretty handy. up to you
 
We are doing a house just outside Guildford at the moment. Parex spec. Parinter then Monorex GF then DRP acrylic. I could have a look but we are booked in for at least a month
 
plasterjfe said:
why acrylic over the monorex gf when the GF is a finished product - just leave in gf finish
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I know it's crazy but on that job it was the spec. Parex say mono gf is need for a smoother base. I know on coat parinter then drp would work nice but they won't have it :(

Parinter, monorex gf and then paragaurd is my personal favourite at the moment.
 
RodgerG if you want us to have a look we are in your area for another week or so. We can look at the options.

Contact details on website Currier Plastering
 
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Fatarm said:
.:RpS_laugh:.....
you have got a broon noser mug? Haven't you?.:RpS_sneaky:
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I was selected, but have declined due to all the mugs i got from our dreamteam sponsors..........................also, i was awarded it for organising a sucessfull footie league...........so you can muff my ass......................:flapper:
 
.even the winner off that successful league didn't get a mug!!!!!...... corruption at the highest level...:RpS_thumbdn: ...
 
CurrierPlastering said:
I know it's crazy but on that job it was the spec. Parex say mono gf is need for a smoother base. I know on coat parinter then drp would work nice but they won't have it :(

Parinter, monorex gf and then paragaurd is my personal favourite at the moment.
Click to expand...

sounds like Parex doing the hard sell there.

is it over existing painted render ?
 
plasterjfe said:
sounds like Parex doing the hard sell there.

is it over existing painted render ?
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Yep

It is texture with trowel marks so does need to come out 10-15mm so maybe that's why the have speced the monorex gf. The material cost are lower that way but it does mean two separate applications which is a ball ache
 
CurrierPlastering said:
Yep

It is texture with trowel marks so does need to come out 10-15mm so maybe that's why the have speced the monorex gf. The material cost are lower that way but it does mean two separate applications which is a ball ache
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why don't you use parmurex then, its gf grade in anycase and around 2 quid a bag less.

ive never heard of a spec like that tho.
 
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