small patch ,with damp

Members online

Total: 604 (members: 2, guests: 602)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
johniosaif

johniosaif

Private Member
Its on the top of the stairs of a basement that I tanked.The previous builder had rendered the first floor and it seemed ok although not scratched for skimming purposes, Long story short,it is not drying although it had been dry a year before, building was empty and un heated, I got the damp area hacked off, the bottom brick although 8 ft off the basement flr was soaking , my thinking is ingress from the neighbour as it is a party wall, alas no access there.I propose leaving it do dry with the heat on for a day and night, then dry coat plaster on the brick work, then skim 24 hrs later, it is very thin, 12mm or so. I pondered using a slurry coat for tanking but its a metre square if that. Ideas/observations etc please..
Rush job as it is sold and this is been done to placate a fussy buyer...
It is of brick construction with soft mortar joints which have been raked out..
 
No, the tanking area, is up to 2.4m height, this damp patch is above it.It was previously rendered before we got there,(previous builder had to sell as he wrecked the place involving letting three floors of a chimney stack fall in to the basement ) My client then bought it and we tanked the basement and rendered what was left, etc etc....The tanking was three coats upto to a min of 25/30mm thickness, this render is thin 12mm thickness..
 
SpankySouthport said:
Jeez! 30mm tanking this a standard practice for basements? I've only ever done a slurry type 2 coats maybe 5mm if that, what about a breathable plaster izonil/limelite maybe? Izonil cover 1m2 at 15mm I think, but I suppose if you do that you might as well tank as I think Izonil is £20-30 a bag, but does get used in basements

Izonil.com | Izonil Waterproof and Breathable Plaster
Click to expand...
Its just that I have dri-coat in the van...
 
Yeah I'm sure you know better than me bud, someone will be along soon to help with more experience with basements hopefully
 
Pretty much like s and a with waterproofer tho, ok for after a dpc injection but no good for existing damp conditions :RpS_confused:
 
johniosaif said:
Its on the top of the stairs of a basement that I tanked.The previous builder had rendered the first floor and it seemed ok although not scratched for skimming purposes, Long story short,it is not drying although it had been dry a year before, building was empty and un heated, I got the damp area hacked off, the bottom brick although 8 ft off the basement flr was soaking , my thinking is ingress from the neighbour as it is a party wall, alas no access there.I propose leaving it do dry with the heat on for a day and night, then dry coat plaster on the brick work, then skim 24 hrs later, it is very thin, 12mm or so. I pondered using a slurry coat for tanking but its a metre square if that. Ideas/observations etc please..
Rush job as it is sold and this is been done to placate a fussy buyer...
It is of brick construction with soft mortar joints which have been raked out..
Click to expand...

John, scuse me if I'm talkin shoite! But could you fix membrane then coat it?:RpS_unsure:
 
Fatarm said:
John, scuse me if I'm talkin shoite! But could you fix membrane then coat it?:RpS_unsure:
Click to expand...
It is just a small corner piece with damp, very thin coat, 12mm at most and less than a metre squared, if I had a membrane with embedded mesh and the proper screws for it then perhaps. As you know, the real solution is always with the source of the problem which I expect is the other side of the party wall but no access so far, I only found out about it as a problem yesterday and contracts ie completion is friday, its a £400 k sale for a 3 bed basement.I think at best I will only get the best solution for now. Thats why I thought dry coat ,then skim...
 
SpankySouthport said:
Ahh **** it just badge it and scarper :RpS_biggrin:
Click to expand...
Time issues, access issues, £400 k issues, they want this money for an eight flat development which I will work on, the works are guaranteed a year from when he completes this transaction, so another visit possible, hard to stop bleeding when you cannot see the bleed...
 
Tank it then dri coat it. Hopefully it'll hold it back until you can get to the root cause.
 
As Carlos said ,just remove the damp area well past its visual sign ,as the tanking will move the damp more ,which can give signs of salt on the repaired area ,if you know what i mean John :RpS_unsure:
 
johniosaif said:
as in tanking slurry coat it? then dri coat it?
Click to expand...

yes mate. Chop the old render off a good 450mm past all visible signs of damp. Then 2 or 3 for good measure coats of slurry, then dri coat while still wet of at least green. Skim a couple if days later.......:RpS_wink:
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top