skirting

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

spunkybum

Guest
just got a cracking deal at bandq 7.99 for 2.4m lengths but ive never done it before ;D ......because there short lenghts and i'll need to join them do i still need to mitre the joins or leave them butted up against each other? also what fixings do you recommmend? cheers spreads
 
I butted mine up to each other and fixed with gripfill and the odd lost head nail, the chippie in work bollocked me and said you should 45 your joints else they will crack and stuff.... mines been up over a year and still looks brand new ???

Rich
 
i hada go at that i did 45 um it aint that hard and makes ya feel like a pro for a few mins..till ya (ethiopian word) the next one up.
 
mitre em mate but use mdf and mitre fast it..
or a little trick to avoid buying mitre fast is just buy a bottle of superglue and spit on the joints before you stick the glue on it works just as well
always cut your lengths long if your joining em cos if your floors a bit out you might have to adjust your join, then when its right, cut it to length, scribe any ends you need to and then glue it..
grip fill em on but if youve got a 2nd fix paslode fire a few of them in as well.. theyll go into all but the hardest render as well as studs..
if nailing tosh em - that means fire one in at an angle then close by add 90degrees to the angle and fire another in bit like an 'X' - stops em pulling out..
 
thanx all ;)....its oak and was thinking of gripfilling it but im worried about it pulling off ??? would it hold or is it worth firing some fixings in aswell?......also havent got a mitre saw so will be doing it old styley do i need a certain saw?
 
if its real oak mate you wanna do a proper job really..
if i do it i use a proper mitre saw, hire one if you aint got one..
then screw and plug em using a plug cutter, pva in the hole, tap the plug in, let it dry, take the head of with a real sharp chisel and sand it flush.. make sure your plug grain runs the same way as the board.. it'll look the nuts..
you know how to butt and scribe mate?
 
sommat else youll find if its oak is its prolly american oak, and its hard as slate to cut mate.. forget hand cuttin it..
pva your joints (use decent wood grade pva), inline and external mitres and pin em..
 
errrrrrrrrrrr ........ive still got the reciept can i swop it for pine ;D
 
sorry seggs havent got a clue what butt and scribe is and can you explain abit more about how to plug mate :)
 
a plug cutter is a little hollw drill bit type thing, you stick it in a DECENT cordless and fire it into a bit of scrap offcut, it leaves a little plug which you just snap out with a screwdriver bit like a mini dowel..
drill through your skirt (youll need to pilot drill oak anyway bout 4mm) then counterbore the hole bout 8mm deep..
send in your screw (use a No.10 i think cutter) and an 3"x8 screw..
it'll sit 8mm below the surface, then stick some glue on your plug and tap it into the hole, it'll go in tight fit but you need to use the right size counterbore drill, buy it when you buy your cutter theyre only a few quid each..

but and scribe joint...
send one side stright butt up to the wall, dont mitre it..
work clockwise round the room if your right handed or revese it if your left, youll see why when you come to scribe the skirting over the end of your hop up..
measure from the BACK edge of your just FIXED butted peice to the opposite wall, make it a good measurement..
get your next bit and cut a mitre on the left hand edge as though you were mitring the two bits.. cut the other end long (thats your next butt end)
get a coping saw and cut out the shape that the mitring leaves and offer it up to the butted peice.. make sure it fits (if its up square itll be bang on, always try and get em up square, this is what joiners moan about when the plaswter scoops out at the bottom)
if its right cut your peice square to length at the other end, if not adjust your chopsaw angle, zip it again, and do the coping saw thing again till it fits..
youll only get a double edge mitre to work if your rooms dead square and theyre quite long lengths..
if youve got external mitres to do, get them on first and work up to em..
glue and pin extenal mitres together before fixin em..
 
p.s. use a fine tooth handsaw to cut the straight bit of the scribe and always cut back into it a little bit otherwise it'll hold off..
 
cheers seggs youre a ledge mate ........but can i just mitre the corners mate im struggling with the scribe thing!
 
its easy when youve seen it done, much better job, much more forgiving with the angle, hang on ill see if i can find a vid..
 
funny thing is weve bought the cheapest oak lookalike laminate going and were using real oak skirting ;D...............it really is the house spunky built :-[
 
just a thought mate but you can buy 'oak faced' mdf skirt or architrave now.. looks just as good, cheaper and a damn sight easier to work with... glue your joints with superglue etc, cuts dead easy... only thing is youll need a bit of real oak to cut plugs from but they match up ok.. you can even buy the stuff in sheets... makes great reveal liners..
 
right ;D mitre all me joins and lay a length butted up to the wall and on the joining piece scroll and cut it and keep working left to right if im right handed :-\
 
thats it mate, the left to right thing just stops you tying yerself in knots trying to cut the straight bit on the scribe..
 
no worries.. its always tempting to stick joinery, tiling, double glazing, plumbing, bricklaying on the advert but everyone thinks your a bodger then..
does my friggin head in..
plasterins prolly my worst subject.. ;D
 
o, one more tip, dont varnish it, give it 3 coats of danish oil mate...
 
again cheers mate
stick the lot on the van and go for it mate you know youre beans enough said ;)
 
oasis said:
i did real oak floor in my house.but crap skirtins!
mate that oak faced mdf skirt aint bad stuff at all, dearer than pine but a hell of o lot cheaper than real oak.. its proper oak veneer laid over mdf and looks the nuts when its on.. only ever seen 4" though..
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top