Skimming over wood - unavoidable

Members online

Total: 357 (members: 12, guests: 345)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
M

MFW

New Member
I've got a wall to float and set where due to the way the wall and staircase have been built, I'm gonna need to skim over a length of 3x2. It's very hard to explain, but basically it's a breezeblock wall (internal) in a hallway, with a doorframe. The doorframe opening in the blockwork was made too wide, so the 3x2 has been used to pack out the opening to allow the doorframe to be fitted.

I'm floating out the wall with hardwall, which will be flush with the 3x2, which itself is 3mm back from the doorframe.

I've just read what I've typed and I'm pretty sure nobody will be able to picture the situation, but I've explained it the best I can! I've got no photo either.

Anyway, given that there is no possible alternative (and believe me if there was I would do it!) than to skim over the timber, how would you go about it? I've told the customer that some cracking is likely to be inevitable, which they are ok with as the wall will eventually be wallpapered.

I was thinking of using some gloss paint on the timber to completely kill the suction, and then when the paint is dry putting a coat of WBA over the top to provide a key, then using 4" scrim on the joint between the blockwork and timber, and then skimming. I would use expamet instead of scrim but there's not enough depth and it would show through the skim.

Any other suggestions lads? There really is no other alternative than to skim the timber so it's a shitty situation which I just want to make the best of. Can't fit a wider doorframe due to the layout of the adjoining room.
 
can you use eml mate? if youre in dire straights and cant over float it and fook the chippy put a few lengths of scrim over the joint
 
Can't use eml, there's only a depth of 3mm for the skim-coat. Can't bring it out any thicker than that or it'll cover the newel post on the staircase.
 
you need to put a dispersion adhesive over it, trouble is it's hard to get hold of and expensive, is there no way you can put a stop bead against the timber and let them put some smooth timber over the top of it after it's plastered , if you skim over it wether it has unibond or scrim then it's gonna crack cos the timber will move as it gets hot cold and damp etc
 
you could board over it and they could bring the lining out with door stop
 
What does the dispersion adhesive do monkey?

Spunky - can't board over it as it'll bring it out too far and the newel posts on the staircase will get covered up. The joiner who built the staircase got his measurements wrong and it's made my life very difficult on all the hallway walls :mad:
 
whip the door liner out, remove the 3x2
refit the door liner centrally in the hole using 1 1/2" packers behind the fixings... foam the gap, not too much though and just hardwall away... skim as normal..

use a good 70mm architrave and you wont have to worry about it
 
sorry just re-read the first post... :-[ couldnt the 3x2 get replaced by 2x2 and topped off with board? pushing it on the fixings but youd get away with it i reckon..
 
can you lap abit of building paper over it bonding coat then skim
 
Can't change the doorliner Chris, nor can I move the position of it using the 1.5" packers. It's because of the clearance for the door to open - hard to explain in words but you'd see what I mean if you could see it.

You have given me an idea though, if I take the 3x2 out and replace with 2x2 then refit the doorliner in the same place, I'll have an extra inch of depth which will allow me to cover the timber with a bit of foam to bring it up to the level of the blockwork. I could then get some eml over the joint between timber and blockwork, then hardwall over that, then skim?
 
Think i read your mind there Chris, you beat me to it!

The building paper idea is a good one too Spunky.

Cheers for the advice all
 
Just ahead of me Spunky my thought is put building paper on making sure you lap the joint between timber and blocks and the nail some mesh cloth (used with monocouche) over that, not ideal but the best I could come up with.
 
whatever you do to it it's gonna crack, dispersion adhesive is what they put over timber that needs rendering with thin coat systems it's good gear if you can get hold of it, i normally have some in the back of my van but i aint got none at the moment, the only othe thing i can think of is to use thistle bond-it or the stuff that wickes do
 
Yeah, I was gonna use the Wickes stuff. I've used it over hardboard window reveals before now and it turned out fine. Would have preferred to replace the hardboard with some plasterboard, but the customer is always right as they say! ::)
 
defo wba in this situation put few strips of scrim over aswell if your hands are tied there is not a lot you can do people expect us to work miracles sometimes "oh the plasterer will get over that"
 
"oh the plasterer will get over that"
How many time have we all heard that one!
Wba and plenty of scrim thats all you can do really.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top