I've got a wall to float and set where due to the way the wall and staircase have been built, I'm gonna need to skim over a length of 3x2. It's very hard to explain, but basically it's a breezeblock wall (internal) in a hallway, with a doorframe. The doorframe opening in the blockwork was made too wide, so the 3x2 has been used to pack out the opening to allow the doorframe to be fitted.
I'm floating out the wall with hardwall, which will be flush with the 3x2, which itself is 3mm back from the doorframe.
I've just read what I've typed and I'm pretty sure nobody will be able to picture the situation, but I've explained it the best I can! I've got no photo either.
Anyway, given that there is no possible alternative (and believe me if there was I would do it!) than to skim over the timber, how would you go about it? I've told the customer that some cracking is likely to be inevitable, which they are ok with as the wall will eventually be wallpapered.
I was thinking of using some gloss paint on the timber to completely kill the suction, and then when the paint is dry putting a coat of WBA over the top to provide a key, then using 4" scrim on the joint between the blockwork and timber, and then skimming. I would use expamet instead of scrim but there's not enough depth and it would show through the skim.
Any other suggestions lads? There really is no other alternative than to skim the timber so it's a shitty situation which I just want to make the best of. Can't fit a wider doorframe due to the layout of the adjoining room.
I'm floating out the wall with hardwall, which will be flush with the 3x2, which itself is 3mm back from the doorframe.
I've just read what I've typed and I'm pretty sure nobody will be able to picture the situation, but I've explained it the best I can! I've got no photo either.
Anyway, given that there is no possible alternative (and believe me if there was I would do it!) than to skim over the timber, how would you go about it? I've told the customer that some cracking is likely to be inevitable, which they are ok with as the wall will eventually be wallpapered.
I was thinking of using some gloss paint on the timber to completely kill the suction, and then when the paint is dry putting a coat of WBA over the top to provide a key, then using 4" scrim on the joint between the blockwork and timber, and then skimming. I would use expamet instead of scrim but there's not enough depth and it would show through the skim.
Any other suggestions lads? There really is no other alternative than to skim the timber so it's a shitty situation which I just want to make the best of. Can't fit a wider doorframe due to the layout of the adjoining room.