Skimming nightmare

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nickelarse said:
i dont no if its just me. but... **** over boarding. i would rather drive 20 miles out of my way, and bond it the lid and come back the next day, rather than driving to a merchants, chucking 10 boards in my van, getting to the job, carrying 10 boards upstairs, cutting and tacking the f**k**s and then skimming it. id rather shag my mum. obviously some lids need it but as a general rule. no. and now i am a parex rep, microgobitis can be gone over as soon as touch dry.

and no, my mum isnt fit
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Totally agree, **** overboarding unless i have to......
 
I always overboard old cielings or artexed cielings 9.5mm boards if theres coving i use 6mm its a better job but i always work with a labourer
 
ive never seen 6mm boards!!

if you use 6mm boards on a ceiling with coving up you would still lose the coving!!

just pva it and skim it ffs artex or not
 
I've got some 6mm boards on our present job and you wouldn't want to tack a ceiling with them I'll tell you, both do to flex and cost. As previously said even with a 6mm board you'd still loose the edge of the cove.
 
lets give up on this 1 we all no its cheaper to pva and skim and less work. 6mm boards wtf is that all about.
 
think will all come across this problem now and then!!it happend to me last year on the same sort of silky surface in a kithen i put it down to the cold weather or a old bags of multi!! the walls would not set or trowel up and peeled all over the place,i was lucky the client was away for 2 weeks so a layed all the trowel marks out and waited till the next day and then unibond and reskimed the walls!! it cost me few hours in time and a couple of bags of mullti.but i didnt have much choice coz there was no way i was leaveing it like it was!! my post not much help but least you no it happens time to time!!
 
looking at the original question,what you should have done was put on neat pva, allow to go tacky before skimming,pva should always be tacky when applying the first coat of skimming.
as for overboarding cielings , in my opinion thats a no no.. for a start you can never tell where wires or pipes maybe , and secondly the weight on the joists could be too much and force the cieling to collaspe once the plaster is applied. having been in the trade for 34 years ,i have seen this happen to so many people , so if your overboarding , make sure your personal liabilty insurance is up to date.
 
gordo said:
looking at the original question,what you should have done was put on neat pva, allow to go tacky before skimming,pva should always be tacky when applying the first coat of skimming.
as for overboarding cielings , in my opinion thats a no no.. for a start you can never tell where wires or pipes maybe , and secondly the weight on the joists could be too much and force the cieling to collaspe once the plaster is applied. having been in the trade for 34 years ,i have seen this happen to so many people , so if your overboarding , make sure your personal liabilty insurance is up to date.
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Good point on the overboarding...

But doesn't pva re-emulsify with the water from the plaster when applied, so effectively it will go tacky evan when dry...
 
s.p.t plastering said:
Good point on the overboarding...

But doesn't pva re-emulsify with the water from the plaster when applied, so effectively it will go tacky evan when dry...
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if that was the case , then the manufacturers would say so on the tin/carton that it comes in, i have used pva all my life and regardless of the background, plaster should be applied when tacky as this gives it the bond the manufacturers are recommending, just read the back of the tin/carton , never have i seen what you are suggesting , whenever i have come across plasterers applying plaster to pva when dry , it has fallen off within a year, really would'nt want my customers coming back to me on it.
 
gordo said:
if that was the case , then the manufacturers would say so on the tin/carton that it comes in, i have used pva all my life and regardless of the background, plaster should be applied when tacky as this gives it the bond the manufacturers are recommending, just read the back of the tin/carton , never have i seen what you are suggesting , whenever i have come across plasterers applying plaster to pva when dry , it has fallen off within a year, really would'nt want my customers coming back to me on it.
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totally agree with the above, but not with the overboarding statement if im overbording I check for wire or plumbing etc and ive done acres of overboarding. I wouldnt overboard a ceiling that was sagging and bouncing because the hangers had been cut in the loft untill it had been rehung and any deflection either jacked back up or stopped from deflecting anymore.
 
I think people read into this pva mlarky a bit to much i've skimmed over dry pva loads of times, and never had a problem, your telling me you wait it for it to go tacky on every job...

If i've got a few rooms to do or whole house, i like to prep a few rooms the night before in front of me, so i'm mixing first thing as soon as i get in the next day....
 
s.p.t plastering said:
I think people read into this pva mlarky a bit to much i've skimmed over dry pva loads of times, and never had a problem, your telling me you wait it for it to go tacky on every job...

If i've got a few rooms to do or whole house, i like to prep a few rooms the night before in front of me, so i'm mixing first thing as soon as i get in the next day....
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on most over skims you can pva any background using neat or 4/1 pva and it will be tacky within 30 mins to an hour, enough time to get set yourself up for skimming and maybe have a quick cuppa.as for plastering on dry pva , you wont see the problem till the custmer has either wallpapered and comes to scrape it off in couple of years or you will get air between the pva (which when dry will act as a membrane and waterproof) and the plaster , and eventually it will start to blister and you will be able to tap on the hollow points and see its not adhered properly.nowhere have i ever seen on a tub of pva , to let it dry then skim , beats the theory of it, apply when tacky helps the plaster to bond with walls .
 
the amount of time i have been in with a floor scraper and taken off a skimming coat because the walls where not solid is unbelievable, still each to there own as they say , but i would definately do as it says on the tub.
 
Pva is not a bonding agent though, it's only for suction control.....


By the way i'm not saying i'm skimming on dry pva on every job, but i have done before, and never had any problems.........
 
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True it kills a bit of suction i bet 90% of plasterers who try and get on it when it's tacky don't because they don't get the timing right it's not sbr is it how many lads add pva to their mixes to get a bond
 
i think pva is wank. its ok to chuck over some old bonding or brickwork to kill the dust/suction, but on reskims the finish never sticks as well as it does on new work. bonding agent everytime
 
if you're going over matt paint or old plaster it saves you money in bags gets you home earlier and you can do it the same day I've never heard of it failing on pva the odd artex ceiling maybe where the artex was probably lose but that's it
 
so you have skimmed over micro gob before nick does it not act different over a silky surface ? just asking cos ive got a few tubs left over
 
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