skim beads

Members online

Total: 576 (members: 7, guests: 569)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
Removed_101

Removed_101

New Member
whats the difference between the normal ones and the mini mesh ones apart from the obvious?

or are the mesh ones just cheap sh1t?
 
I believe mini mesh were meant for sticking on, i.e. where there is nothing to nail to. But only a fool would use them as they are rubbish!!
 
cross troweler said:
I believe mini mesh were meant for sticking on, i.e. where there is nothing to nail to. But only a fool would use them as they are rubbish!!
Click to expand...

this is what i thought!! utter sh1t and hard to keep strait :mad:
 
Hi guys excuse the plug... thought the below would help explain the application and reason for the various beads being discussed on this thread.

Micro Mesh Angle Beads are used for a single/thin coat. Catnic's bead is manufactured to 80° providing a plaster depth of 6mm. Due to the mesh wing pattern they tend to provide a better key to the plaster, but provide a less rigid bead.

Dry Wall Angle Beads are designed for standard single/thin coat plaster. Catnic's bead is accurately manufactured to 80° providing a plaster depth of 6mm. The punched wing pattern provides a more rigid bead, but provides a less effective plaster key.

Dry Wall Thin Coat Angle Bead is designed for standard single/thin coat plaster. Catnic's bead is accurately manufactured to 85° providing a plaster depth of 3mm.. The punched wing pattern provides a more rigid bead, but provide a less effective plaster key. The perforation pattern allows wing flexibility for improved on-site adjustments and setting.
 
All i know is i've been plastering 28 years and catnic make the best bead, i've used every other type Catnic are the best. Now do i get a relly large discont or a free sample or something? Jokeing aside catnic every time.
 
hello mr catnic if you do work for catnic have you ever been approached to produce a 7mm bead instead of 10 so when we butter them on we get a finish coat thickness
 
Hi guys,

interesting feedback. We may already do something, or can look to introduce a new item should the demand be there.

can i just clarify a few things on the details of the 7mm bead

1) PVCu or Steel?
2) Internal or external use?
3) Renderplas is the manufacturer thought to have a patent?

Regards
Barry
 
Pug said:
render's probably got the patent though!
Click to expand...

in answer to question 3, no, the render i referred to is rendersytems, a member of the forum and i was just being a smartarse!
 
is there a bead out there for floating that can be used for bullseye windows so i dont have to make a template
 
grand wizard said:
is there a bead out there for floating that can be used for bullseye windows so i dont have to make a template
Click to expand...

cant you just use a plastic render bead mate?
 
i need something that will bend round without kinking and give enough depth so arch bead is out the window
 
expamet do the arch kits 2'6 and 2'9 for doorways...
if they made the bead in continuous length and omit the stiffener?
problems then gonna be getting it perfectly round..... not easy, gonna have to form a template to fit it... defeats the object somewhat....
maybe if the plastic sheath was fitted before bending it might hold a better curve?
 
can you already get arch 'beads' at around 10mm depth then?
only ones i seen are the plastic ones from screrwfix etc, 3mm skim depth....
 
i want something i can just bed on and give enough thickness for floating an arch bead is to fiddly and will bend and warp
 
how about some 10mm polypipe held together at the joint with an insert with the lip cut off?
silly idea i know cos i havent got a clue how you'd fix it? :-[
 
grand wizard said:
i want something i can just bed on and give enough thickness for floating an arch bead is to fiddly and will bend and warp
Click to expand...

Cant you do the reveals in board then float to it then use the arch bead?
 
still begs the question - 'how you gonna get it perfectly round especially when fixing off without using a template?'

Ive stretched the arch kits before today and it was a right pain to get an equal curve all the way round...

ry%3D400


took me 2 bleedin hours to bead this up.... im guessing you wanna be bangin a few out a lot quicker...
 
Catnic Plasterers Beads said:
Hi guys,

interesting feedback. We may already do something, or can look to introduce a new item should the demand be there.

can i just clarify a few things on the details of the 7mm bead

1) PVCu or Steel?
2) Internal or external use?
3) Renderplas is the manufacturer thought to have a patent?

Regards
Barry
Click to expand...
not too sure of pvcu but deffo steel internal and external
 
the problem we have is the 10mm bead should be nailed up really internally but the blockworks never good enough or buttered onto a scratch coat for s/c but you always end up having to fill out 13mm +
 
Chris W said:
still begs the question - 'how you gonna get it perfectly round especially when fixing off without using a template?'

Ive stretched the arch kits before today and it was a right pain to get an equal curve all the way round...

ry%3D400


took me 2 bleedin hours to bead this up.... im guessing you wanna be bangin a few out a lot quicker...
Click to expand...

That looks like a right pain mate........Nice job you've done of it in the end though....What's that arch called? looks like it has 2 flanks on it to arch round..
 
cheers mate, its the same the other side, so its got 3 facets as such, havent got a clue what you call it... someone will know....

the brickwork was chopped out that shape when i got there but rough as f'ck, loooked like it'd been done just like that before and been hacked off...
once the damp had been sorted i just used 2 arch kits, stretched the outside one (tricky) and spent ages gettin it as equal / plumb / 'looks rite' as possible then just rendered it up... to be honest, gettin all the verticals straight up and true / size and blended into the arch was as much of a pain as the arch itself.. all the beads were mechy fixed before any render hit it.... with hindsight it may have been better to butter it up something like first...
i was quite chuffed with it in the end though, why i took a pic.. ;D
 
Chris W said:
cheers mate, its the same the other side, so its got 3 facets as such, havent got a clue what you call it... someone will know....

the brickwork was chopped out that shape when i got there but rough as f'ck, loooked like it'd been done just like that before and been hacked off...
once the damp had been sorted i just used 2 arch kits, stretched the outside one (tricky) and spent ages gettin it as equal / plumb / 'looks rite' as possible then just rendered it up... to be honest, gettin all the verticals straight up and true / size and blended into the arch was as much of a pain as the arch itself.. all the beads were mechy fixed before any render hit it.... with hindsight it may have been better to butter it up something like first...
i was quite chuffed with it in the end though, why i took a pic.. ;D
Click to expand...

Fairplay.....Looks lovely to skim now....

Imagine trying to that free hand....

Not the sort or thing you will learn on a 5 day course is it?....Lmfao...
 
what NOT to do.... DONT START WITH THE VERTICALS LIKE I DID YOULL END UP TAKIN EM BACK OFF AGAIN!

each side is 2 arch kits.... expamet ones (not wickes) they come with a plastic 'bead liner'...

the outside one - cut the internal eml off just leaving the stiffener (the square bit), cut some slits in the stiffener so i could stretch the radius slightly... set em opposite about 2 inch apart and run the plastic liner through to join em up... sort of ran the trowel along the underside as i was fixing off to create a smooth curve...

inside one - cut off the stiffener leaving just the eml...
set one end of one side, set the other side one end, set the 'joint' same distance from the outside and fix it same distance from outside all the way round - fiddly as f'ck...

same the other side...

THEN bung the verticals (just normal galvo corner render beads) up keepin em plumb, size, reveals all that shi'te...
and try not to have a 'corner' where the verticals join the arch... much better....

had to sort of squash the verticals on in places and others just ran through cos the brickwork was that crap (and by 'crap' i mean there were bricks missing, loose, nothing like plumb, just all over the place)

pain in the arse but worth it in the end i though...

I posted up at the timje i did it (bout 2 years ago now) and 'templates' were mentioned but im f'cked if i could figure out how to do it with templates... :-[
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top