Roof trusses uneven what's best?

Pintsize

New Member
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Finally got time to do this.
Above are pictures of new extension trussed roof. Unfortunately the build was done with several errors and is down to me to sort them. I haven't time to debate them with the contractors. Let's say I've learnt a lot these past 18 months. 3 of us in a caravan on site, the Mrs is going to loose her xxxt if I don't get it done.

I've trusses that sit higher than some and lower than others. I've done the roof with 50mm x 50mm C24 to give me an even roof line and that's tiled.

I was thinking of doing something similar for the ceiling, but what wood would be acceptable to building control? I was planning on leveling them all to the lowest truss then batten at 400 centers? What's your thoughts, help much appreciated. I've watched endless YouTube vids and read plenty of how to pages, but nothing fits my situation. That's where I am at the moment. Cheers
 

raggles

Private Member
I wouldn't worry about building control if all you are going to do is flatten/ level with cross batterns. Just make sure you get the required insulation in before you battern it.
 

Dollar

Well-Known Member
Get you insulation in between rafters
Add a timber on side on the existing timber where they are low
follow with insulated PB boards onto nice even timber

your welcome
 

Wayners

Well-Known Member
Wood off the floor cut to lowest point.. Then tack strips of wood to the side of joist to match the height. Then see what you need to pack joists but this is if floor is level
Then see where you are at. String line is naff and never works.

Other way is lazer level (dewalt) about 1m high line. Mark where it shines on wood baton with the top at lowest point. Now don't matter where the wood is placed in the room as long as mark on the wood has lazer line through it, the top will be the level. Bang on.. You can place screws in joists at the spot on level point. See where your at with packing then.


You can also do this for floor level. From lazer line down. Hope makes makes sense. Just don't move lazer and place on solid surface. Easy really

Cheap green lazer on amazon..

Wish I knew this 20 years ago when my roof was similar. Too late now
 

Pintsize

New Member
Wood off the floor cut to lowest point.. Then tack strips of wood to the side of joist to match the height. Then see what you need to pack joists but this is if floor is level
Then see where you are at. String line is naff and never works.

Other way is lazer level (dewalt) about 1m high line. Mark where it shines on wood baton with the top at lowest point. Now don't matter where the wood is placed in the room as long as mark on the wood has lazer line through it, the top will be the level. Bang on.. You can place screws in joists at the spot on level point. See where your at with packing then.


You can also do this for floor level. From lazer line down. Hope makes makes sense. Just don't move lazer and place on solid surface. Easy really

Cheap green lazer on amazon..

Wish I knew this 20 years ago when my roof was similar. Too late now
Cheers Wayners
As this project grew, as did my understanding of how much of a f%/+*p I'd paid for skilled men to do their bit. I invested my birthday money in many tools to help me wade through the place. Laser, chopsaw and my favourite, A stabila digital level. I will say that the level of the joists were spot on! The building being 100mm out of square in one corner is a bit frustrating!!! Don't even get me started on the state of the ground floor slab.

Learning loads and appreciate the help

There will be other questions, many I'm sure
 

Pintsize

New Member
I can honestly say, the same standards were maintained, right up until building inspector said there were several areas of the roof that were not acceptable.

I had to redo the Dormas from scratch. They ain't pretty, but they were acceptable

Plasterboardng will no doubt give me plenty of challenges. More questions in the pipeline.
 
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