right crack's!!!!!!!

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donkum

donkum

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i have a bit of a head ache,, i have been asked to solve a re-accuring crack, so its a timber famed building brick skin, plaster boarded in side and theres a crack that keeps coming back it has been filled loads of times. and i scrim taped it a nd skimmed over it last time thought it was done for good but 1 month later ----hello mr crack!!! it lines up with an expanstion joint in the brick work out side, but there are other crack along board joint next to windows as well that i scrimmed and skimmed that have cracked,,, would like to know if there are any helpful hints out there..:flapper::flapper:
 
Paper tape over the cracks.
Apply the damp paper tape bedded into bonding then bonding over the tape,
when ready skim with fibres in 1st coat, then 2nd coat as normal.
Might help, might not.
Worked for me before on bad cracks :RpS_thumbsup:
 
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Whenever i'm asked to sort problem cracks out I rake them out and fill them with drywall adhesive and bed double width scrim into it. Then skim. Worth a try if there's no logical structural problem.
 
bubbles i just wonder if i could actually tell the customer that to solve the crack i have to remove the oak dado rail that runs the entire 130 foot of the building take the orginal boards off or even that i had to board over the whole run of 130foot. just to solve a crack as i said over boarding is not an option, yet it seems to be everyones answer,, thanks to those of you who haev actually had a good suggestion....:RpS_thumbup:
 
What would you like to hear?

Ok lets try this, Its f*ck all mate, don't worry. just fill it with a butter cream. 40% icing sugar, 20% egg, 10% double whipped cream, vanilla essence and a good palm full of sticky sperm.

Or maybe the truth. The only way you cant stop movement of a timber frame is to stop the movement of the timber frame!

Maybe you might ask on a plasterers forum, maybe the resident experts might tell you how to hide/cover the movement.........no f*uck it, dont listen to them.

Best bet is to drug the client and perform falacio on him. He'll forget all about that pesky crack then!!
 
donkum said:
bubbles i just wonder if i could actually tell the customer that to solve the crack i have to remove the oak dado rail that runs the entire 130 foot of the building take the orginal boards off or even that i had to board over the whole run of 130foot. just to solve a crack as i said over boarding is not an option, yet it seems to be everyones answer,, thanks to those of you who haev actually had a good suggestion....:RpS_thumbup:
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A wall that runs 130ft? is the crack running horizontal? Cant you just cutback to the joist either side of the crack and put a board over that leaving the dado in place? also they are usually planked then boarded so there really shouldnt be a joint goin all the way through.
 
donkum said:
bubbles i just wonder if i could actually tell the customer that to solve the crack i have to remove the oak dado rail that runs the entire 130 foot of the building take the orginal boards off or even that i had to board over the whole run of 130foot. just to solve a crack as i said over boarding is not an option, yet it seems to be everyones answer,, thanks to those of you who haev actually had a good suggestion....:RpS_thumbup:
Click to expand...

Fair dinkum Donkum, extra information is always useful.
Why don't you take the boards off either side of the crack, then bang a full board on, ensuring that it is spanning the crack area. Also while the boards are off you might find the structural defect that was causing it in the first place and rectify that as well.............There's not many 130ft oak trees around either so if you DO have to remove the dado rail it'll probably be no more than 16ft marra:RpS_thumbup:
 
Dont take it to heart fair Dinkum.I think its the time of the month for bubbles. But his second answer was much better............:RpS_thumbup:
 
Well mate I have been useing "Fibre Lime " the lime has lots of small fibre which bonds the filler and help were movement cracks are, £20 for 20 litre tub which will never go out of date so am told. The putty is made by singleton birch limes.
 
donkum said:
bubbles i just wonder if i could actually tell the customer that to solve the crack i have to remove the oak dado rail that runs the entire 130 foot of the building take the orginal boards off or even that i had to board over the whole run of 130foot. just to solve a crack as i said over boarding is not an option, yet it seems to be everyones answer,, thanks to those of you who haev actually had a good suggestion....:RpS_thumbup:
Click to expand...
So can you board it?lol calm down dear,it's just a commercial...sorry crack.as stated you have to stop the movement or whatever you do will crack eventually.
 
donkum said:
i have a bit of a head ache,, i have been asked to solve a re-accuring crack, so its a timber famed building brick skin, plaster boarded in side and theres a crack that keeps coming back it has been filled loads of times. and i scrim taped it a nd skimmed over it last time thought it was done for good but 1 month later ----hello mr crack!!! it lines up with an expanstion joint in the brick work out side, but there are other crack along board joint next to windows as well that i scrimmed and skimmed that have cracked,,, would like to know if there are any helpful hints out there..:flapper::flapper:
Click to expand...

Paracetamol?? :RpS_unsure:
 
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