Rendering, how do you do it.

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Semaj

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Replaced the back door and the render around the sides and above the door has came off, want to attempt it for saturday coming.

It's back to the brick, do i need to put a scratch coat on first, what kind of sand and cement should I use and in what mix (3-1 etc) and should I use a retarder if I aint going to paint it. (I heard Fairy does the job? ??? ?)

Should I float it or use a sponge.

Thanks.
 
how would you approach it my lover and what finish are you matching?
 
It all depends on what you are matching into if its just smooth for the scratch use a 4:1 sand cement add waterproofer (you can get it from wickes for less than a fiver) then just top with a 5:1:1 the extra 1 is lime as for finishing it, use a float on it when it starts to go off (but this time of year it takes ages) once you get it to a decent finish with a float, finish it off completley with a sponge rubbing it in a circular motion as for other finishes tyrolean you will need to do the smooth coat first then gun over with tyrolean gun and as for dashing its a bit of a art to it its all in the flicking of the wrist some people take to it others dont :)
 
try 4-1 with sbr waterproofer+would add a frost proof this time of year,top coat 5-1-1 only add sbr to scratch.would poss attach metal lath first to brick work above an round door as weakest points. gdl
 
intensive said:
try 4-1 with sbr waterproofer+would add a frost proof this time of year,top coat 5-1-1 only add sbr to scratch.would poss attach metal lath first to brick work above an round door as weakest points. gdl
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What type of sand should I use, plain building sand ok or is that to coarse, so so far

I should use a 4-1 mix with waterproofer for the scratch coat, then 5-1-1 for the top coat float it in then sponge for the finish., is a wooden or plastic float better or does it not matter.

It is not that big a job really, not sure but I think the parts I am repairing are called ingos (I'm sure I heard someone call them that) If I,m wrong then what are they called??

Cheers
 
warriorupnorth said:
Thats a rather grand moustache you are sporting there , is it real :D
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Yip it's real, dont have it anymore, changed it for the George clooney look, wanna see.
 
dont forget if you use a waterproofer in your scratch coat this time of year it will hang all day but sbr all round were you are jointing to so it doesnt crack on the join..
 
ant said:
dont forget if you use a waterproofer in your scratch coat this time of year it will hang all day but sbr all round were you are jointing to so it doesnt crack on the join..
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Cheers, The drycast is coming of the facing side only on the concrete lintel, I'll SBR that, I dont think with the weather I will get it done anytime soon.

Can you tell me what make of sand I should be using for this job, fine or coarse ( I remember something about salts in sand) thats why I ask.

Thanks agin.
 
Semaj said:
ant said:
dont forget if you use a waterproofer in your scratch coat this time of year it will hang all day but sbr all round were you are jointing to so it doesnt crack on the join..
Click to expand...

Cheers, The drycast is coming of the facing side only on the concrete lintel, I'll SBR that, I dont think with the weather I will get it done anytime soon.

Can you tell me what make of sand I should be using for this job, fine or coarse ( I remember something about salts in sand) thats why I ask.

Thanks agin.
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use plastering sand. wouldn't use nomal building sand.. (Too many impurities) plastering sand has been washed. i might add a shovel of sharp to a mixer full, depends how coarse plastering sand is. different pits have different coarse/grades of sand..
hope that helps.. ;)
 
youre deffinately on the right lines mate i always knock one out before work ;)
 
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