Rendering a blockwork shed(First Blast)

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oasis

oasis

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OK so my dad has just built a new shed out of concrete blocks! so no lil ****er can steel from the garden again.

he said he will let me render it for a chance to learn

my plan was to fix beads then wet up the blocks

use TP Plastering sand (i no spunky)

then apply 4-1 scratch coat with TP waterproofer in

Next Day Apply 5-1 Top coat with TP Plasticiser in

I plan to lay the scratch coat on as thick as i can

rule off straight away

with top coat

apply and rule off straight away , then wait till it pulls in and use the float to rub it up in a circular motion filling up any shallows and hollows ect

then later on use a sponge to give it a finish??

any help would be good I'm sure it wont got that easy!

Its only about 3mx3m but this will be the biggest thing iv done. iv only ever done patch's and the odd internal wall and I'm sure they were no were near level but in a old house you get away with it.(i never said that)
 
No need to wet the blocks and 10mm coats are fine, use a cement mixer not a drill , you will have loads of time especially this time of year, i would leave the scratch coat a few days minimum, on the top coat do it in two tight coats its easier to builder up to the thickness more accurately and will rule off better don't wet the scratch either before you start and your float needs to be worn in .
 
ok thanks my float is 3 years old and done about 10 jobs ha ha

so on top coat u say lay it on once the top off again in the same set ok
 
You dont have too , i think you will find it easier just put a tight coat over say one side of the shed when you finish start again from where you first started , it save you going on it to thick to quick and it sagging and it rules better imo .
 
for f.f.s for the last time ;D oasis right this down and put it somewhere very safe .....................HOLME SAND
 
Oasis,

My preference is to scratch coat first with no beads, then muck-on the beads, checking front and side that they're not only level but that there are no gaps and you can't see daylight between the bead and the level all the way on on both sides.

I don't know if that's what you meant by 'fix the beads' but if you were going to clout nail them on then you would find that they subtly snake in and out when you put a level to them, even though they might be level between top and bottom. You dont' get that so much with render stop beads but with angle beads I personally would never ever tack them on.

cheers
spredz
 
try sticking beads up first mate.i normally use neat cement.don`t bother ruling off scratch coat.just keep it nice & tight.if you top the next day,probably won`t get any suction.allways nice to leave a few days before topping
 
i have started dabing on with neat stiff cement. if i put beads of afterwards i feel i might find it hard to make up the thickness of a bead in one hit..

thanks for the replys hoping to do next weekend ill take some pics as always
 
oasis said:
i have started dabing on with neat stiff cement. if i put beads of afterwards i feel i might find it hard to make up the thickness of a bead in one hit..

thanks for the replys hoping to do next weekend ill take some pics as always
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Plastering remains, allegedly, essentially a craft rather than a trade because if you give 10 spreads the same task they all go about it differently...and none of them are wrong. When i come to think of it i only scratch first for external rendering and damp proofing, all other scenarios i do the beads first. When i do the beads after the scratch i dab the full length of the angle and run the trowel up both sides and it's brought out instantly and then i scratch that as well so there's no issue with having to make up the thickness. I don't think it makes no nevermind which way you go about it all methods work. I like doing them last externally as the scratchcoat reduces suction and gives you a little more time to fannny about with them plus by midmorning it looks like you've got loads of area covered whereas when you have loads of beads to put on, by mid morning it looks like you've done sod all which, when you're working for a builder on a day rate creates a different perception. Obviously this doesn't apply when you're doing your own shed ;D

I love external rendering, it's my favorite game. enjoy!
 
this "LIME" i never quite get it! ha i always for lime was either waterproofer or FEB ect then i hear some people say they buy bags of lime and add it to the mix? so you would use a waterproofer say with a 1 cement 1 lime 4-5 sand. or is the waterproofer the lime?

i no simple question but iv not even seen much outside work done before. feel like I'm missing out, looks very rewarding to do the front of a house and step back and look at that for the next 20 years!
 
lime is a natural feb your getting really mixed up, scratch 4-1 waterproofer, top 5-1-1. The WP will even out the suction in the top coat and the lime will reduce cracking.
 
ooh thanks people. so i do need to get lime and dont need to add any other plasterciser in top coat to make it more workable.

cant wait till the weekend now ill do a few snaps show u how i did it! might get are mate 2 YOU TUBE it ha ha
 
if you have any lime left give me a shout hahaha.dont go to thick on top coat it will sag especially in the cold and sticking beads is the way as you can slightly adjust if needed.good luck
 
spredz said:
I don't know if that's what you meant by 'fix the beads' but if you were going to clout nail them on then you would find that they subtly snake in and out when you put a level to them, even though they might be level between top and bottom. You dont' get that so much with render stop beads but with angle beads I personally would never ever tack them on.

cheers
spredz
Click to expand...

.....obviously teaching granny to suck eggs there mate sorry, i'm new innit star
 
essexandy said:
Always Spredz, it's just what works for me, each to their own.
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do you push it tight up to the arris of the corner then so it doesn't snake about or not particularly?
 
I usually bead before the scratch coat and the beads are fixed to allow for a 19mm thickness. A lot of the time I don't fix the angle beads using a level but use a line instead.
 
i put a scratch coat .....about 3 blocks'ish butter my beads up except for bellcast unless i can get a fixing then put my top coat on and rule it off..................i dont know and couldnt give a s**t what thickness im laying on am i doing smeting wrong ???
 
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