render question

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terry

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when outside rendering if i was to top coat 5-1-1 do i not add waterproof er or plasticiser.if not why not.scratch has waterproofer in it.thanks
 
I put in a little bit but the fluffier the mix the more likely it will crack so you have to be careful how much you put in.
 
If you use waterproofer in top coat it can prevent any moisture from the scratch escaping causing probs possible delamination, allegedly.
Lucius
 
just curious why people use different mixes with or without waterproof and plas.for years a bloke i worked for used 4-1 waterproof and plas both coats and never had any call backs in 7 years
 
right i've got loads of rendering questions, for u guy's.... as think its about time i learn't this skill... my nan has a tiny wall down her house i can practice on.... i dont plan on rendering the outside of big house's but would like to do things like garden walls then maybe move on to very small extensions, in the future.

Q1. is it best to work to screeds when flat rendering
Q2. when applying angle beads do u bend the bottom out slight to met the bell cast then put another little bit underneath were the damp course is? (hope that make sence).
Q3.do all bricks have no suction or is it only glased red brick. also do red brick need a sbr slurry? or mechanical key
Q4. does flat render finish have to be perfect before tyrolean is applyied
Q5.do u use angle beads and bell casts when sparring or roughcasting?

cheers.
 
it probably was 250 years ago mate.long gone are the days of a wooden float & straight edge.have you not seen anybody render before?if not,don`t go coppying that chap.
 
ha ha..... i like that vid.... yeah ive got a good idea how to flat render....... i was just wondering weather to use screeds or not... like the chap in the video but apply s&c while screeds are still wet. cheers
 
I always put a 1/4 of the reconmended amount of waterproofer or plastiser in with the top coat just dont over stir the mix.

Skyzoo

Q1 It depends on how much time you have and how quick the muck is coming if your rendering on your own i would do screeds but its not necessary you can still get flat just laying it on in sections .
Q2 I cut the angle bead 4 inches short of the bellcast and splay the render out freehand , but on that one it each to they own i guess.
Q3 all bricks are different mate engineering bricks for example needs the joints raked and or a slurry coat applied
Q4 not really a float finish is good enough
Q5 never angle beads allways wet edges for me .
 
1. i always use screeds.
2. i snip the mesh and bend the bead.
3. as above.
4. as above.
5. as above (but i've only ever done patching and repairs!)
 
why is it put on with a flick of the wrist rather than chucked on like dashing?
 
If there was awards given out for being a Pratt the bloke in that video would be world champion .
 
sorry to be a pain...... but ive got 1 more questions do u screed the whole wall or apply the screeds as u go along or do it both ways depending on the the size of the wall. cheers
 
It depends on the size of the wall and how big your straight edge is but its normally the lengh of your edge by the width if that makes sense
 
SkyZOO said:
sorry to be a pain...... but ive got 1 more questions do u screed the whole wall or apply the screeds as u go along or do it both ways depending on the the size of the wall. cheers
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dont think what i said made sence then but...... if i use screeds do i apply all the screeds then go back to the begining and start applying s&c between the screeds.

or apply 2 screeds fill in the middle.... rule off then do another screed and fill that bit in and rule off.

also ive got 1800mm and 1200mm feather edge. im i better of using the smaller one to start off with
 
spunky said:
you shouldnt need screeds for outside work mate just lay it on neat and darby it flat
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yeah....think ill use screeds to start off with, otherwise it'll be farmhouse finish
 
Sorry Bobby but in most of the world that is how it is done, didnt watch all the vid but after i minute the guy was doing it right, Ok he is a bit of a d*** but it is the way to do it, not sure about the saucepan but it should harled on with a bucket trowel 90 % of the world do it like this so they cant be wrong.
Lucius.
 
spunky said:
you shouldnt need screeds for outside work mate just lay it on neat and darby it flat
Click to expand...

I bought a darby, after about an hour of using it I noticed that is was curled at both ends so threw it off of the scaffold straight into a skip, back to the featheredge 8)

lucius said:
Sorry Bobby but in most of the world that is how it is done, didnt watch all the vid but after i minute the guy was doing it right, Ok he is a bit of a d*** but it is the way to do it, not sure about the saucepan but it should harled on with a bucket trowel 90 % of the world do it like this so they cant be wrong.
Lucius.
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But 90% of plasterers are rough does that make them right?
 
if your a plasterer do have to were those wooly jumpers with the stripes down the front (like the guy in the vid)
as there is a plasterer in my area that wears exactly the same jumper? thinking about getting for work ha
 
if you notice on his blog he is living in varna bulgaria so hes prob seen it done like that and thought il have a go cos he definitely aint a plasterer . why do you think the germans invented machines cos thats exactly how they do it when there aint no machine on the job . think id find a job in the office if i had to plaster like that
 
it was the yanks who first invented machines they have some big buggers sprayforce.com
 
av just bin on sprayforces website are they monster machines or what trust the yanks makes mine look like a toy
 
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