Render advice

[PlasterCraftDundee]

I'm after a bit of advice from the render gods! I have only ever taken on dry/wet dash jobs using traditional sand and cement. But last year I went out with another plasterer and done a bit of scratch render with him, I've also been to a few of the manufacturers training days, so I'm pretty confident using the material. I just have little experience coming across those walls that aren't nice big squares over block work!

I've been asked to price the front of a house which has been rendered with sand and cement, which went over dry dash and the customer also reckons the dry dash was over wet dash! Now the render is all solid and I know enewall have a base coat that can go over smooth or even painted surfaces aslong as its meshed then mechanically fixed but I'm a bit concerned with all that weight being on the wall. Do you guys think as long as I fix it with pegs long enough to go into the original block work would all that weight be ok? If I was to be harling it using S&C I would strip it off but if I could get away with just going over the top it would save alot of work.

This might be a stupid question but the house has bay windows with splayed angles, would normal angle beads work round these or is there another method?

 

[stuart23]

Strip it off mate, fk going over all that

 

[GrantyBoy]

I'd really want to have a good look to decide if i wanted to go over it or hack off. I'm not a big fan of hacking of if it's solid. As for your splayed angles use stop beads.

 

[stuart23]

If the dry dash was over a wet dash then the chances are the wet dash was painted which means the paint is taking the weight of the dry dash, the s and c render and the mono also if you go over it. Might be sound now but with the extra weight I wouldn't do it.

 

[PlasterCraftDundee]

I'd really want to have a good look to decide if i wanted to go over it or hack off. I'm not a big fan of hacking of if it's solid. As for your splayed angles use stop beads.

I thought about stop beads but wasn't sure how it would look cos on one side there would be the the normal few mm showing but the other would have the full thickness of the bead.

 

[S a plastering]

fcuk that take it off start with a blank canvas weight issue can cause more cracking imo

 

[Dropsalot]

If right is right......anything else must be wrong.......you know really what has to happen.....anything less will be taking a gamble...just saying.

 

[jmoss5]

Your be in the road if you put any more on it!

 

[Pagey]

It's always hard when your in two minds,u know really should be stripped back and best way to go but on other hand you have customer saying we ain't got that much money as they do, they can be your best mate before you start and worst enemy when goes wrong,personally I would only strip back and start again think if you don't will come back to haunt u

 

[Andy M]

Swerve it

 

[Fatarm]

I'm after a bit of advice from the render gods! I have only ever taken on dry/wet dash jobs using traditional sand and cement. But last year I went out with another plasterer and done a bit of scratch render with him, I've also been to a few of the manufacturers training days, so I'm pretty confident using the material. I just have little experience coming across those walls that aren't nice big squares over block work!

I've been asked to price the front of a house which has been rendered with sand and cement, which went over dry dash and the customer also reckons the dry dash was over wet dash! Now the render is all solid and I know enewall have a base coat that can go over smooth or even painted surfaces aslong as its meshed then mechanically fixed but I'm a bit concerned with all that weight being on the wall. Do you guys think as long as I fix it with pegs long enough to go into the original block work would all that weight be ok? If I was to be harling it using S&C I would strip it off but if I could get away with just going over the top it would save alot of work.

This might be a stupid question but the house has bay windows with splayed angles, would normal angle beads work round these or is there another method?

 

[theclemo]

It has to come off. If they want to save money get them to take it off.

 

[S a plastering]

if not tell em too kook off

 

[Pagey]

The cost escalates though cos it's scaffold and skip on top of price i try convince them to knock off but some where they have knocked off i turn up and they say it's all knocked off and I end up spending a day knocking bits off round windows ect before I start

 

[owls]

The cost escalates though cos it's scaffold and skip on top of price i try convince them to knock off but some where they have knocked off i turn up and they say it's all knocked off and I end up spending a day knocking bits off round windows ect before I start

Yep your right it's rarely done right if your not doing it yourself.
But as soon as I hear " we want to keep costs down" or "we're on a budget" etc, I'm off.

 

[PlasterCraftDundee]

Spoke to customer yesterday, Told him it all needs to come off. I said the only issue with knocking off is it could take one day or 1 week so makes it hard for me to give an accurate price, he said thats fine it is what is and wants it done properly. Not often I come across customers like that! Thanks for the advice boys

 

[Danny]

Spoke to customer yesterday, Told him it all needs to come off. I said the only issue with knocking off is it could take one day or 1 week so makes it hard for me to give an accurate price, he said thats fine it is what is and wants it done properly. Not often I come across customers like that! Thanks for the advice boys

hes a keeper

My favourite saying is it is what it is Drives my wife bonkers