Rendagrip

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SPREADS

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Anyone tried this stuff out ,I suppose it's like ,Feb or thistle bond for keying outside smooth surfaces like sand and cement or concrete
 
Good stuff although builders think you can just slap it a painted house and render in s&c with no issues.


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Similar to microgobetis? I put some on a smooth common brick wall and then Parex Mono as per tech rep spec. Seemed to grip ok but how it works would be interesting. A thin film holding on 15mm of render is a bit of a tall order.

Used Sovereign Plasprime X and that to seems to work. Like a jelly version of SBR and cement. Only time will tell.

Saying that I hack off render on top of render where pva has been used and that lasted in many cases 25-30 years and thats a very thin plastic film.
 
If it can't be used over painted surface ,why not just SBR and scud fook out of it ,what's the point
 
We have been asked to go over pebble dash with render, I don't like the thoughts of it, worry that it will fail.
 
Its one of them John, sometimes you can do more damage chopping off. Theres some fantastic systems out there for overcoming most eventualities and if you dont do it you can be damn sure someone else will.
 
The house has moved about fifty mm ,its end of terrace, initially was getting specialists to take off dash and restore the brickwork, that seems to not be an option now,
 
We have been asked to go over pebble dash with render, I don't like the thoughts of it, worry that it will fail.

did that once about 10 year ago, builder insisted on it. stone was welded on, drive past it now and then, still looks sound
 
We have been asked to go over pebble dash with render, I don't like the thoughts of it, worry that it will fail.

I've done it John when the existing render is so hard that even using a small breaker its hard work and your risking damaging the masonary behind. I scraped at the walls to get rid of any loose stones and slurried with SBR/cement/water mix and applied the scratch coat while the slurry was still tacky with SBR in the scratch coat then topped as normal with whatever. as I say only when the existing render seems to be the only thing keeping the house together lol
 
I've done it John when the existing render is so hard that even using a small breaker its hard work and your risking damaging the masonary behind. I scraped at the walls to get rid of any loose stones and slurried with SBR/cement/water mix and applied the scratch coat while the slurry was still tacky with SBR in the scratch coat then topped as normal with whatever. as I say only when the existing render seems to be the only thing keeping the house together lol

We come across plenty of these but you start hacking off at the top and it comes off then a quarter of the way down it gets hard and harder. Then there is the problem of convincing the customer it needs to stay on, they don't like you going over the top. Taking it off to brick can loosen the bricks, break the machines and chisels .

That lad I have had leave me recently said he was leaving because of chest pains at 24. Partly true. I left him to hack a house off on his own while I went away on holiday. 4 days for 2 men but I left him on his own and give him 8 days money as a price. it must have been the hardest ever! He had to take the face of the bricks off! He did it on his own in 4 days and ended up in the Cardio wing at the local hossi. He had pulled a heart muscle. Did the owner of the house care? Nope.

He was never the same after that but he was a fool to himself pushing himself for the greed of money to the point of pulling a heart muscle.

So yes taking off the top coat down to a clean sound base coat then sbr-ing it is probably better sometimes than taking it back to brick. With bare brick you have suction problems and the risk of premature drying. But customers still don't like you going over the top. Some can get stroppy about it.
 
We come across plenty of these but you start hacking off at the top and it comes off then a quarter of the way down it gets hard and harder. Then there is the problem of convincing the customer it needs to stay on, they don't like you going over the top. Taking it off to brick can loosen the bricks, break the machines and chisels .

That lad I have had leave me recently said he was leaving because of chest pains at 24. Partly true. I left him to hack a house off on his own while I went away on holiday. 4 days for 2 men but I left him on his own and give him 8 days money as a price. it must have been the hardest ever! He had to take the face of the bricks off! He did it on his own in 4 days and ended up in the Cardio wing at the local hossi. He had pulled a heart muscle. Did the owner of the house care? Nope.

He was never the same after that but he was a fool to himself pushing himself for the greed of money to the point of pulling a heart muscle.

So yes taking off the top coat down to a clean sound base coat then sbr-ing it is probably better sometimes than taking it back to brick. With bare brick you have suction problems and the risk of premature drying. But customers still don't like you going over the top. Some can get stroppy about it.

I totally agree with you but another valid point we should all remember is its we who are the professionals not the customer and its highly unlikely we'd give false advice or cut corners as in the long run there would be comebacks on the job making you look a bad tradesman?
 
Not guaranteed either though spreads.

Doesn't seem to be anything guaranteed when going over an existing render other than stripping back to brick or block and starting again ,maybe mechanically fixing expand met with plenty of over lap ,it can be just a mine field ,but with customers and builders penny pinching on job costs ,and your reputation on the line because your the last guy to touch it,you're caught between the devil and the deep blue sea ,so rendagrip is most probably a no no
 
You could use eps depending what b system you're going for. Quicker than knocking off. Get the guarantee and not rattling the building to ****
 
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