B
bigsegs
Guest
easy job liftin rads off mate... just turn both valves off, undo the rad from the valve bodies (leave the tails in the rad) and tip it into a bucket... you can leave the boiler switched on.
specially new rads, they tend to be a hell of a lot lighter than the older ones..
to refit just reverse the procedure, DONT over tighten the nuts (if it leaks just give em quarter turn extra, overtighten em and it might leak, then your shafted)
open the bleed valve, open the trv (the one with the numbers on), let the rad fill, EDIT close the bleed valve then open the locksheild (other valve)...
if its a combi boiler (no hot water cylinder) look underneath the boiler and youll find a silver flexi pipe connecting the mains cold with the system 'flow' pipe... itll have a valve you can turn, if the 'handle' has been removed use a pair of pliers...
turn the boiler off...
look at the pressure guage on the boiler, open the valve till the guage reads between 1 and 2 bar (1.5 is ideal), shut the valve off, turn the boiler on. job done. charge em an extra 30 quid.
theres no need to add inhibitor for just one rad...
if you find the plumbers been over zealous when he tightened the nuts first time round and when you fit it it leaks, wrap some ptfe round the olive (the wedding ring thing round the valve tail) and nip em back up... dont remove the valve tails at all... if you have and it leaks, remove rad, remove tail, use 'boss green' round the serrated threads and re- fit..
actually, now ive read that back it should say 'charge em an extra 60 quid'
p.s. if its NOT a combi boiler i.e. hot water cylinder in airing cupboard, dont touch the boiler, it'll fill itself back up...
p.p.s if its one of the newer, pressurised stored water systems, the same applies as to a combi but the filling loop is on the pressurised storage cylinder (they look like a cross between a hot water cylinder and r2d2)
p.p.p.s you DONT have to be corgi registered cos you aint touchin the gas, the householder can do it if they like... but you do need an adjustable spanner (better than grips on new nuts) and a bleed key... never overtighten anything...
specially new rads, they tend to be a hell of a lot lighter than the older ones..
to refit just reverse the procedure, DONT over tighten the nuts (if it leaks just give em quarter turn extra, overtighten em and it might leak, then your shafted)
open the bleed valve, open the trv (the one with the numbers on), let the rad fill, EDIT close the bleed valve then open the locksheild (other valve)...
if its a combi boiler (no hot water cylinder) look underneath the boiler and youll find a silver flexi pipe connecting the mains cold with the system 'flow' pipe... itll have a valve you can turn, if the 'handle' has been removed use a pair of pliers...
turn the boiler off...
look at the pressure guage on the boiler, open the valve till the guage reads between 1 and 2 bar (1.5 is ideal), shut the valve off, turn the boiler on. job done. charge em an extra 30 quid.
theres no need to add inhibitor for just one rad...
if you find the plumbers been over zealous when he tightened the nuts first time round and when you fit it it leaks, wrap some ptfe round the olive (the wedding ring thing round the valve tail) and nip em back up... dont remove the valve tails at all... if you have and it leaks, remove rad, remove tail, use 'boss green' round the serrated threads and re- fit..
actually, now ive read that back it should say 'charge em an extra 60 quid'
p.s. if its NOT a combi boiler i.e. hot water cylinder in airing cupboard, dont touch the boiler, it'll fill itself back up...
p.p.s if its one of the newer, pressurised stored water systems, the same applies as to a combi but the filling loop is on the pressurised storage cylinder (they look like a cross between a hot water cylinder and r2d2)
p.p.p.s you DONT have to be corgi registered cos you aint touchin the gas, the householder can do it if they like... but you do need an adjustable spanner (better than grips on new nuts) and a bleed key... never overtighten anything...