Plastering wood - possible?

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who's he .... :RpS_confused:

just a bit of tongue in cheek, jessop. tommy would rather eat dogsh1t than add to my rep .. :RpS_wink:
 
Is the Plasterboard screwed on? Take of the plasterboard, nock out the studding and take a quarter of an inch of the top and bottom. put it back up and plasterboard round it.
 
Well said coop, he doesnt want to do to much to it as he is a diyer , this is where it starts to get bad when you dont know what your doing ..... A few different ways of doing it some better than other just depends how well he wants the job done , i know what i would do if it was me working for a customer ratha than someone on there own house ......
 
your right, if you were doing it for a customer, or for yourself then, like a few posters have suggested, you'd rejig the studwall and do it properly :RpS_thumbup: he probably could have one that in the time he spent posting and answering. but he was asking about going over the timber - that's in the title of the post. how i can then be blamed for the uk financial collapse, i've no idea.
 
gregg532 said:
Hi all,

As you can hopefully see from the picture below, there is exposed wood which is the vertical support of my new stud wall. As there is a door frame on the adjacent wall I can't plaster around the doorframe. All I want to do is cover up this vertical support.

I've done some research and it appears I can't plaster over wood, due to the expansion of wood. However, no one seems to have thought about using heat resistant plaster, like that used on chimney breasts which expands and contracts lots too. If I scrim tape, PVA and then use Heat resistant plaster, do you think this will work, or will the plaster still crack?

Maybe some kind of metal mesh, like that used in arches instead of tape?

I am a novice, and appreciate I might be talking complete garbage.com! But entertaining for you pro's nonetheless.

Regards
Gregg
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Double board the end first and then board the rest of the stud wall. By double boarding the end it will be proud enough to take a thin-coat bead and you'll have produced a wee return to skim. :RpS_thumbup:
 
cooptaza said:
Is the Plasterboard screwed on? Take of the plasterboard, nock out the studding and take a quarter of an inch of the top and bottom. put it back up and plasterboard round it.
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Fotgot to mention, take the arcitrave of and the plasterboard behind the architrave and make sure the new plasterboard goes to the frame. That way the crack will now be behind the architrave when it goes back on.
 
CTPlastering said:
Wot crack ? Lol
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Where the timber meets the wall. it will probably crack. but if you board over the timber all the way to the door frame(take the arcitrave off) the pur the acritrave back on it will avoud cracking. You will only have your we bit above the door, but you can cut it back so you are on a joist.
 
flynnyman said:
Lol building paper, eml, bonding, float bead, paper tape then skim this place gets dafter and dafter, some people will never learn so carry on oh and a little tip get an extra float bead and flatten it out rather than buying eml and wasting any more money and time.
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its internall flynny **** me how much can it move
 
A bead won't cover the join between the timber and existing which is the major cracking point, can you please not give out unprofessional advice :)
 
cooptaza said:
Where the timber meets the wall. it will probably crack. but if you board over the timber all the way to the door frame(take the arcitrave off) the pur the acritrave back on it will avoud cracking. You will only have your we bit above the door, but you can cut it back so you are on a joist.
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You would obviously take all the architrave off to board it , you would lose all of the architrave if you boarded up to it and it would look silly
 
CTPlastering said:
You would obviously take all the architrave off to board it , you would lose all of the architrave if you boarded up to it and it would look silly
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If you read the previous post I said you could take the joist out and chip a quarter of an inch of it and put it back then you could board it flush. Just board it right to the door frame, obviously taking away the old board which is under the architrave first
 
:RpS_laugh:

then piss on it to put out the fire. then start again and measure correctly
 
it's a bathroom, right..? tile it :RpS_thumbup: simples.

I expect no payment for this advice, gregg. but someday, and that day may never come, i'll call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this advice as a gift from me .
 
gregg532

I politely answered your question on how to do this over on the other forum. If you are looking for an easy way out as apposed to doing it properly , don't ask the professionals their opinion. RPS
 
cooptaza said:
If you read the previous post I said you could take the joist out and chip a quarter of an inch of it and put it back then you could board it flush. Just board it right to the door frame, obviously taking away the old board which is under the architrave first
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Am sure i already said to do that in the first page ....... And said that there will be a nail between that one and horizontal stealin my ideas :rolleyes)
 
sub55 said:
gregg532

I politely answered your question on how to do this over on the other forum. If you are looking for an easy way out as apposed to doing it properly , don't ask the professionals their opinion. RPS
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What other forum?
 
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