Plastering wood - possible?

Members online

Total: 575 (members: 4, guests: 571)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
G

gregg532

New Member
Hi all,

As you can hopefully see from the picture below, there is exposed wood which is the vertical support of my new stud wall. As there is a door frame on the adjacent wall I can't plaster around the doorframe. All I want to do is cover up this vertical support.

I've done some research and it appears I can't plaster over wood, due to the expansion of wood. However, no one seems to have thought about using heat resistant plaster, like that used on chimney breasts which expands and contracts lots too. If I scrim tape, PVA and then use Heat resistant plaster, do you think this will work, or will the plaster still crack?

Maybe some kind of metal mesh, like that used in arches instead of tape?

I am a novice, and appreciate I might be talking complete garbage.com! But entertaining for you pro's nonetheless.

Regards
Gregg
 

Attachments

  • WP_20131217_011.jpg
    WP_20131217_011.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 1,881
Use 9.5mm plasterboard. Or even 6mm if yoh you can get it. Then give the existing wall a coat of pva/bonding agent and a coat of thistle bonding. Then skim.
 
Have done it before by stapling render mesh all over wood and skim skim will not fall off as grips to mesh and mesh is stapled to wood might crack at little , stuff we did is spot on , would not recommend it all time but sometimes needs must
 
yes you can plaster over wood but not directly over a 2x4. Traditional plastering(solid plastering) 3 coat plaster systems plaster was troweled through wooden lathe and scratch coated prior to second brown coat. The plaster mushroomed behind the slits of the wooden lathe key. This type of construction would hardly be used in the uk but more so in old Victorian houses in the the US. You can however always go over wood with plaster if you use Metal lathe. Cut the metal lath. Screw it in with stainless steel or galvanized screws. Trowel your plaster through the lathe and scratch it horizontally. Let fully cure. Trowel second coat, flatten and trowel third coat and finish.
 
We have millions of of Victorian houses with lathe and plaster Union, before my time like but I do remember the days of banging in hundreds of clout nails into wood lintels for a key.
 
It's the render mesh fibre one like the fibretape with using this you can get away without building out thickness to much struggling to put a link up mate , a little job like that you could get away using fibretape but put lots of staples in it and a couple of layers as not as strong as render mesh
 
I'll have a look in the net.

BTW for the plasterboard walls I plan on filling joints / joint tape with Thistle Easi-fill, then applying Thistle Bonding coat all over the wall. Once this is dry PVA the wall with a 1:5 mix and when this is tacky, going all over the wall with Multi-finish.
Sound OK?
 
It would take half an hour to take the timber out, cut it back and put the timber back in saving you a lot of time ******* about with mesh and wasting money and time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wind up? No chance; serious as a heart attack. I'm going-in at the deep end and re-fitting a bathroom. I have become stuck on a stud wall having never attempted to plaster before. Moving the support is not an option unfortunately, and ripping out the doorway isn't ideal either, but not completely out of the question if absolutely necessary.

Unless there are any huge objections, I like the sound of Ahsleyscoob and Union Trowel mesh / lath ideas. I am open minded to discussing other options as well. Jesssop, do you have an input?
 
Ok take the architrave off plasterboard the door wall, put strips of timber around the door casing then put the architrave back on.
 
just eml it and go over with bonding, then put your bead on, then skim . don't start taking the thing to pieces ffs, it's nearly christmas. you could be sitting in your house this time tomorrow chuffed to bits, job done.

by the way, you can add to jessops reputation with the appropiate icon should you feel his posts have been particularly useful ...:RpS_wink:
 
Gregg obviously the wood isnt proud to the existing is it ? As you were gunna mesh and give it a coat of fire retardant plaster ? Can u not just squeeze a board on to it , a couple of mil jus bond the top of the wall and lose it ..... Then skim the f**k*r , u wiuld have to rake off the timber first like on that side , which is usually pinned in the top corner to the horizontal one , which u may not want to do ......
 
it won't crack, gregg. the house will fall down around it before it cracks. and yes, put building paper on first, and remember to measure out exactly eleven and a half litres of water per bag of plaster or equivalent thereof ...


ffs. if you're unlucky you might get a hairline crack in it in a couple of months. big deal. smear a bit of polyfilla in it if that's the case and repeat if necessary every couple of years ....


much ado about nothing.
 
Last edited:
Lol building paper, eml, bonding, float bead, paper tape then skim this place gets dafter and dafter, some people will never learn so carry on oh and a little tip get an extra float bead and flatten it out rather than buying eml and wasting any more money and time.
 
flynnyman said:
Lol building paper, eml, bonding, float bead, paper tape then skim this place gets dafter and dafter, some people will never learn so carry on oh and a little tip get an extra float bead and flatten it out rather than buying eml and wasting any more money and time.
Click to expand...


job's a goodun :RpS_thumbup:
 
Don't you think it would be easier to get someone who knows what they are doing to do it? Its people like you who are f*****g this industry up
 
tommyswindon said:
Don't you think it would be easier to get someone who knows what they are doing to do it? Its people like you who are f*****g this industry up
Click to expand...

i'm gutted, mate, your opinion means the world to me .... :-(


he's a diyer, you dingbat, looking for a quick fix to his problem, without taking down a wall or redesigning the fcuking wheel:

"All I want to do is cover up this vertical support."

maybe you should tell him how to do it. bear in mind he's probably realised that he could could reboard right across, or take the stud out and cut back etc. but wants a simpler solution. :RpS_thumbup:

you can add to my reputation, thomas, by clicking the appropiate icon.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top