Packing out - Building out on one half of a wall

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mikeadams1985

mikeadams1985

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as im not a plasterer im unsure on this one so figured i would ask here.

ive bought a property and its bloody old, 1881. Now in the lounge its got these fake beams on the walls (giving it a cottage look). which had been fixed to the original brick wall then been sand cement and then skimmed inbetween them all. They don't just run vertically tho, some run off at a 45degree angle.
Ive took out the fake beams in the walls and now left with bare brick (thats not the problem) the problem is, one side of the plaster is higher than the other by different amounts in different locations.
So how woul;d you float it out ready for a skim
Plasterboard packing and cutting loads of mental shapes
sand cement?
bonding?
ill attatch a picture to show in a bit
 
You could dab out to bring each inline, or bond out or hack off one side and float to match, the world is your lobster
 
Either way bubz it will probably end up cottage effect in anyways :RpS_thumbup: Only jokin mike every man to his own
 
The wider you hack off ,lesser the bump,it's up to you how much you take off to achieve this to be less noticeable to the eye
 
is this property listed
1880s will be 9" solid brickwork, therefore i would not use bonding, hardwall or browning.
either insulated plasterboard or dot and dab plasterboard, or cut off old floating and float in either sand and cement or lime mortar.
 
In an old cottage it may look best to, blue grit the lot and float over everything with bonding, let it pick up a bit and sponge float the trowel lines out and the paint.

A rustic finish.

If you want it flat you could dab over existing of hack off and dab or float and set, lots of options.

You could have boarded straight over the timbers that were there.
 
its not listed. Some sections may only be under 10mm out and some more.
ill have another look at it on saturda
I want it completely flat, like completely flat and straight. Will get the fether edge out and see how much diffrence there is between the heigh point and low point
 
1881 listed or not, if it sand & cement render on them walls it needs hacking off and lime plastering, if people ask me to do these jobs with modern material(hardwall, bonding,s&c,dab), they can forget it, im not in the bussiness to ruin anybodys home, these houses last this long because of the materials that were used, old and new are like oil and water, they dont mix.
 
No it doesn't if there's no damp issues and it's probably had 20 coats of emulsion over it not lime wash
 
Of course you could just strap the walls insulate, board and skim then you'll be nice and toastie in you old house aswell as having plum and flat walls :RpS_thumbup:
 
mikeadams1985 said:
its not listed. Some sections may only be under 10mm out and some more.
ill have another look at it on saturda
I want it completely flat, like completely flat and straight. Will get the fether edge out and see how much diffrence there is between the heigh point and low point
Click to expand...

Dab insulated plaster board straght
over the lot mate
 
spunky said:
No it doesn't if there's no damp issues and it's probably had 20 coats of emulsion over it not lime wash
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S&C and emulsion are non breathable products, impenatrable to damp, you cant see the damp behind s&c, its the wrong product for the age of the house, plasterers with your opinion are responsible for damaging these old houses, if you dont work on old or historic biuldings like i do then you have no place commenting or recommending materials for the job.
 
You're ripping people off for work that's not needed, my point is there isn't a damp issue why hack it all off disturb the substrate in the process and use expensive products ? There's plasterers with common sense and ones that read a lot of books......
 
we do not know what the budget is for this room? it does not sound like an historic building when he said that it had false timber studs on the walls. i had pictured a two up two down terrace property!
 
spunky said:
You're ripping people off for work that's not needed, my point is there isn't a damp issue why hack it all off disturb the substrate in the process and use expensive products ? There's plasterers with common sense and ones that read a lot of books......
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There isn't a damp issue now but using modern materials ie gypsum you could creat a problem, get back to skimming new builds x
 
spunky said:
You're ripping people off for work that's not needed, my point is there isn't a damp issue why hack it all off disturb the substrate in the process and use expensive products ? There's plasterers with common sense and ones that read a lot of books......
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Not ripping people off, just giving good sound advise thats been learnt the old ways, you on the other hand are just a cowboy from a 1 week plastering course out to damage these old houses and grab your money with no regard to the asthetics to the property, you obviosly have little or no experiance working with old biuldings, you have read far to many posts on here and as a result you think your a very knowledgable plasterer, ive seen plenty old properties damaged by plasterers like you, you should find a different job and leave it to the people who know what they are doing, not you.
 
yeoplast said:
Not ripping people off, just giving good sound advise thats been learnt the old ways, you on the other hand are just a cowboy from a 1 week plastering course out to damage these old houses and grab your money with no regard to the asthetics to the property, you obviosly have little or no experiance working with old biuldings, you have read far to many posts on here and as a result you think your a very knowledgable plasterer, ive seen plenty old properties damaged by plasterers like you, you should find a different job and leave it to the people who know what they are doing, not you.
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Lol **** off you idiot everyone I know wouldn't hack it off
 
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spunky said:
Lol **** off you idiot everyone I know wouldn't hack it off
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You carry on then, it just makes more work for me to undo the damage thats been done, infact thank you, your keeping me in work, good luck for the new year.
 
if it's a house as old as that the plaster is probably half way to falling off the wall anyway I'd say, probably wouldn't even need a hammer just a bolster. as someone said on older houses it's better to try and match the materials or start again.
 
yeoplast said:
You carry on then, it just makes more work for me to undo the damage thats been done, infact thank you, your keeping me in work, good luck for the new year.
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I will thanks and I hope you have a good year trying to convince people you need to destroy there house for a week
 
A would chip it back to bare wall, treat it, but its no my house, a would nae dotndab straight on to it, a would build stud wall with insulation in it, leaving some breathing space
 
spunky said:
I will thanks and I hope you have a good year trying to convince people you need to destroy there house for a week
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A week! lime work takes longer than that, i dont need to try and convince people to do the right job, my year is pretty much booked up on lime work, well at least 7months of it, i think that speaks for its self.
 
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