old wooden corner beads

Members online

Status
Not open for further replies.
sidewaysking156 said:
whats the best way of stoping the slight little cracks u get when putting thin coat beads over old wooden ones ?

i used to skrim them but now i just cut them out and fill the hollow with bonding. its the best way they are a fekin nightmare mate.

takes a little longer but when you weigh up the time it takes to go back and patch :mad:
 
sidewaysking156 said:
yeah thanks just depends how much of the wall they pull off i spose lol

tell me about it, sometimes its fine and sometimes i have thought about just getting back in the van.
hahahaha
 
Yeh but you run the risk if you take em off of damageing more of the wall/edge thans needed. I stick on bead with gear and fill with whats left, brush in and then pva. much quicker & never had any problems. But now ive said "never" watch what happens ::)
 
Wouldnt even give them the option ,just tell em they have got to come off which they have, never had any probs with loads extra coming off
 
Ok but why make more work for yourself. Why do they have to come off of there solid. doesn't make sence but im always learning so if you know better fair enough.
 
did a job years ago sealed wood with neat pva stuck beads on top all corners cracked, thats the reason why i wouldnt even give them the option, not worth the hassle,even though youve sealed the beads the moisture still gets in to the wood then when the wood dries thats when they crack,
everyone to there own i suppose
 
No fair comment mate. You're probably doin it the right way and I've more than likely just been lucky. Just coz it aint happened yet isn't to say it wont. ;)
 
I scrim dab beads and fcuk off quickly b4 they crack.50 % chance on cracking,just advise customer b4 hand and charge £50 more to remove and bond.
 
take them out it takes a minute if you get a saw on the top and just above the skirting ping them out where the timbers are holding them in there is no damage. They always crack just coz youve not had a callback it doesnt mean they havent cracked. they can crack the next day or a year later and leaving them in is not doing the job right, when i look at a job i explain i dont charge extra for taking them out and if another plasterer is leaving them in he is a cowboy coz they will crack that gives you a slight advantage above whoever is going to look at it and i havent given my price yet so taking them out is worked into my price.
 
wood shrinks and expands due to the cold, heat and any movement plus most of the time they are on a chimney breast where you have a fire which is switched on and off so yes everytime might not be today or tomorrow but they will. wood expanding and shrinking is a matter of fact.
 
if the wood is coverered with a bead and the wood moves then the bead moves with the wood... cos its attached to the wood innit.. ::)
unless of course your bead is much wider than the wood and only attached to the wall at the edges but iv never seen beads with extra wide wings on... ???
 
Chris W said:
if the wood is coverered with a bead and the wood moves then the bead moves with the wood... cos its attached to the wood innit.. ::)
unless of course your bead is much wider than the wood and only attached to the wall at the edges but iv never seen beads with extra wide wings on... ???
I know its just a wind up mate ;)
 
wooden beads are on every external corner in a house which is of the lathe and plaster era and like the man says if there up there then do it properly and take them off quote them into the price to be taken off and do the job properly at the end of day its your business's name on the line i no what i will be doin from now on taking the s**t things off ,bond,bead scim job done and properly
 
THE BEST WAY TO DEAL WITH WOODEN CORNER BEADS

i took some off yesterday and this is how i did it, first of all cut through the wooden bead just below the ceiling or cornice with a good sharp hand saw, you need to get as close to the ceiling or cornice as possible without damaging them. then cut through just above the skirting board. be sure that you have cut all the way through the bead. once this is done take a good sharp stanly knife and cut through the plaster about one inch back from the bead on both sides, you need to cut all the way through to the brick. once done carefully pluck out the plaster between the wooden bead and your cut that is an inch or so away from the bead. you may find that you are working with a stud wall that has a lath and plaster system, in this case you can just pull the bead straight off but if it is a brick wall then you have another little problem to deal with. the bead on a brick wall will be nailed onto wooden plugs, so what you need to do is carefully inspect the inch channel you have cut out and locate the plugs, be sure to find all of them! now take your stanly knife and cut enough clearance around each plug for it to come out without pulling any plaster off and then away you go with pulling the bead off. incase the bead wont come off by hand, dont start to pry it off because there is a good chance you will damage the surrounding walls. the best way to do it is to screw into the bead with some drywall screws (not all the way in) take your claw hammer and pull the bead straight off with a yanking motion. once the bead is off dampen down the backing and fill with bonding, then scrim over the joint of the bonding and old wall. let this set and dab your new bead on ;)
 
do what kurt says, cut the beat at skirting and ceiling/coving level, fill and put a thincoat bead on.
 
Well I've been in this game for over 32 years and I've never had a problem with wood beads, then again I take em out. Was always told not to plaster over wood and thats what I've always done, and guess what I've never had any problems. Perhaps them owd buggers who taught me knew a thing or 2
 
ive tried everything including spraying varnish over the wood but they always have a chance of cracking.we inform the customer that it may or may not happen.if they dont mind the chance of a crack we leave them in but if they dont we take them out for a small charge but listening to you guys im just ging to take them all out regardless from now on.
 
Try this, pva and scrim over existing wood beads then also put scrim down the wings of your newly applied thin coat beads , I guarantee you will get no probs
 
Tried that Marra, hit and miss I'm afraid sometimes works sometimes don't? If you want a guarantee for sure rip the fuckas out:RpS_thumbup:
 
I've never had a issue in 10 years using no nonsense pva and genuine fibatape , it's pricey but u get what u pay for it seems
 
No need to get arsey will me pal, I'm only offering advice in saying that I've never had a prob using this method ,you do it your way and I'll do it mine , if you want to rip the fuckas out , crack on and clean all the shite up after you grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top