newbie - house renovation

[ROSSCO]

Hi everyone, newbie here looking for advice!
I am renovation my house and due to finances have undertake most jobs myself, therefore I am replastering the rooms myself so yours advice would be really appreciated..
I have removed the black mortar from walls,reboarded the ceilings, so should I render walls with one or two coats before plastering with mutifinish or is there other alternatives i should consider.
What is the best way to get the render plumb on the walls. I'm starting with small box room...

thanks in advance..

 

[kirk johnstone]

if you realy want to float your walls then i will write a guide fore you tomorrow mate as i am going to the pub now, or alternately you could dryline the walls in which case you will find my guide to dot and dabbing in the NEW TO PLASTERING READ THIS FIRST section, this method is slow and alot of plasterers will knock it, but it is very easy to follow and verry hard to get wrong

oh and welcome to the forum mate

 

[flat boy skim]

best thing to do is get someone in who knows what there doing m8

 

[islandview]

Just search the forum for what you are looking for as there is loads of information on what you are looking for.

Good luck with your house.

 

[skimmin2day]

A newbie aint gonna render and set walls to a good standard so drywall and sand and paint thats your best bet.

 

[ROSSCO]

Hi Kirk, Flat boy
I do intend to float the walls, so a guide would be helpful put to good use.

I expected to get a reply.."Get someone who knows what they are doing" but unforturnately they dont come free and my funds are very limited, so in at the deep end for me.

 

[mark1980]

A newbie aint gonna render and set walls to a good standard so drywall and sand and paint thats your best bet.

quit while u ahead ya cant render walls it will look a mess get some1 in to do it

 

[lucius]

You may find it better to get someone in who knows what they are doing and you go out to work to earn their wages.
Lucius.

 

[kirk johnstone]

Hi Kirk, Flat boy
I do intend to float the walls, so a guide would be helpful put to good use.

I expected to get a reply.."Get someone who knows what they are doing" but unforturnately they dont come free and my funds are very limited, so in at the deep end for me.

you will have to wait until tomorrow mate as i need to go the pub now, and it will take to long to write. or you could pm me your number and i will tell you over the phone which will be much easier

 

[flat boy skim]

save your finger tips mate ;D

 

[Diggler]

You,ve knock off the old plaster and saved yourself some money, if you try an float the walls yourself you could make a hell of a mess which in the long run will cost you more to put right

 

[ROSSCO]

Thanks for the replies.
I'm quite handy and don't mind a challange, perhaps this is to much of a one, so i'll give a wall a go.
I've read a number of the posts and some suggest the best way to render the wall is to plumb the corners / edges and rule between them.
should the render be left to dry before skimming amd is there a need to pva before skimming..

 

[kirk johnstone]

Thanks for the replies.
I'm quite handy and don't mind a challange, perhaps this is to much of a one, so i'll give a wall a go.
I've read a number of the posts and some suggest the best way to render the wall is to plumb the corners / edges and rule between them.
should the render be left to dry before skimming amd is there a need to pva before skimming..

there is quite alot in it mate, i will write a guide on how i would do it tomorrow if you want mate

 

[ROSSCO]

cheers kirk, that would be a great help to me and others who need to do the job themselves..thanks again

 

[spunky]

snap a string line 10mm of each corner of the top of the wall, mix some plaster and cut 100mm squares of p/board, hold a square of the chalk line in each corner and tap dabs of board back to the line, tap dabs of board back 6 foot or whatever the length of youre straight edge of each corner then plumb more dabs of the ones youve done mix some plaster rule of the dabs remove the dabs fill them and skim them piece of cake ;D

 

[plaster man]

Hi everyone, newbie here looking for advice!
I am renovation my house and due to finances have undertake most jobs myself, therefore I am replastering the rooms myself so yours advice would be really appreciated..
I have removed the black mortar from walls,reboarded the ceilings, so should I render walls with one or two coats before plastering with mutifinish or is there other alternatives i should consider.
What is the best way to get the render plumb on the walls. I'm starting with small box room...

thanks in advance..

i know u say money is tight if u could get a spread to do that one box room and u give him a hand see how he dose it then u could see if u think ur capabel of doing the rest it would be money well spent

 

[georgemealy75]

Hi everyone, newbie here looking for advice!
I am renovation my house and due to finances have undertake most jobs myself, therefore I am replastering the rooms myself so yours advice would be really appreciated..
I have removed the black mortar from walls,reboarded the ceilings, so should I render walls with one or two coats before plastering with mutifinish or is there other alternatives i should consider.
What is the best way to get the render plumb on the walls. I'm starting with small box room...

thanks in advance..

get a speacailist 8)

 

[murplastering]

do a three day cource and youll be a fully paid up member on here

 

[kirk johnstone]

A GUIDE TO DOT SCREED AND FLOATING​

THIS IS JUST A GUIDE FORE ROSSCO & ANY OTHER NEWBIES.​

THIS IS NOT FOR TIME SERVED SPREADS.​

THIS IS ONLY THE WAY I WOULD RECOMMEND TO A NEW STARTER​

AND YES, THERE ARE OTHER WAYS TO DO THIS THAT WILL BE FASTER​

Right first things first, you can either use dots (small pieces of plasterboard or ply wood that sits on a dab of plaster) or you can use long clout nails (these should be galvanised or sherodised so that they dont rust as this will show through the plaster) and once you have chosen, the next thing to consider is 'do you have a door casing on the wall you are going to plaster because if you do then you will need to set your dots to the same level so that your wall is not too far back or forward.

now go to one side of the wall and set a dot in the bottom corner, then go to the other side of the wall and set a dot in the other bottom corner, now with the help of someone else you can pull a string from one dot to the other, you can now adjust the dots so that they are in line with the door casing. let them set.

now with the help of a long spirit level (or a piece of straight wood cut to the right hight with your smaller spirit level held to it) set dots in the top corners and adjust them with the level until they are plumb with the bottom dots. let them set.

now take your string line again and pull it across the bottom dots and set intermediate dots at about five foot intervals ( you will use the dots to set the screeds so you need to set them where your straight edge will reach from one screed to the other) then do the same for the top dots. let these set.

you are now ready to form the screeds, you need to put a band of plaster vertically between the dots (do one screed at a time). the band needs to protrude slightly more than the dots, now use your rule to push the band of plaster back to the dots, and cut of any surplus plaster either side of the rule with your trowel then gently slide your rule off the freshly formed screed as not to disturb it. continue this process for all the dots. now let all the screeds set.

now is time for floating, damp down the wall and screeds (this will control the suction and give you a bit more time to get it right) now start filling in the bays (sections between the screeds). do one bay at a time, fill it in and run your rule up the screeds cutting of the plaster, then fill in the hollows and rule of again. keep doing this until there is no more hollows and then move on to the next bay and repeat the process.

if you have a door casing on the wall you can use this as a screed.

let this all set.

now your wall should be full, flat and plumb. all you need now is a key for the finishing coat. tou create this key you will need to screw some screws through a polly plastering float (the sharp end of the screws should come out on the face of the float by about 2/3mm.

4 or 5 screws will be fine, now you need to rub this all over the wall in a circular motion with the screws scratching the wall (creating key).

and thats it you are now ready to skim the wall.

before skimming you should damp the wall down to control the suction.

NOW I WILL SAY IT ONCE MORE, THIS IS A EASY GUIDE FOR NEWBIES AND THERE ARE FASTER WAYS OF DOING IT FOR TIME SERVED SPREADS.

hope this helps

 

[flat boy skim]

kirk did you know that you cant learn plastering from text,its all about feel and touch ,same for bricklaying.cant believe you wrote all that m8

 

[ROSSCO]

Hi Kirk

Thanks for taking the time to post that guide.
I'll use 6mm ply cut outs and bed these approx 12 - 15mm off wall and infill with sand & cement backing.

Should this be built up with 2 s&c coats and how long do I leave, before skimming onto this?

I'll let you know how it turns out!

 

[PhilPlaster]

Just burn it to the ground, much quicker and you can buy a better gaff with the insurance dosh.

 

[ROSSCO]

Yeh, I'll keep that in mind for when things go bad and I get really frustrated..

 

[PhilPlaster]

Have you decided what your going to do yet?

 

[kirk johnstone]

kirk did you know that you cant learn plastering from text,its all about feel and touch ,same for bricklaying.cant believe you wrote all that m8

yes but knowing the theory will give you a big head start, oh and i have taught my self allot from reading books but i know what you are saying mate. i look at it like this.... if i can help someone i will

 

[kirk johnstone]

Hi Kirk

Thanks for taking the time to post that guide.
I'll use 6mm ply cut outs and bed these approx 12 - 15mm off wall and infill with sand & cement backing.

Should this be built up with 2 s&c coats and how long do I leave, before skimming onto this?

I'll let you know how it turns out!

if it were me i would do it in too coats, scratch coat (let this dry and shrink then damp it down)
lay screeds and then top coat and let this dry out and shrink then damp this down before skimming.

NOTE. this is how i would do it with sand and cement, there are more ways that might be better or faster but this is just the way i would do it, some plasterers like to skim the sand and cement once it has set but not dried out as ther will not be much suction which will make skimming easier but what trends to happen is it shrinks when it drys out and this will crack the skim. again this is only my opinion oh and in the guide i wrote you i said to rub the wall with a devil float when it had set to provide key but when working with sand and cement you will need to rub it up when it is very firm, once it has set it will be very hard to make a key in it.

 

[Journeyman]

Kirk, 10 out of 10 mate for goin to the length you have to try and help a newbie. Aint this what the forum should be about?

 

[kirk johnstone]

Hi Kirk

Thanks for taking the time to post that guide.
I'll use 6mm ply cut outs and bed these approx 12 - 15mm off wall and infill with sand & cement backing.

Should this be built up with 2 s&c coats and how long do I leave, before skimming onto this?

I'll let you know how it turns out!

if it were me i would do it in too coats, scratch coat (let this dry and shrink then damp it down)
lay screeds and then top coat and let this dry out and shrink then damp this down before skimming.

NOTE. this is how i would do it with sand and cement, there are more ways that might be better or faster but this is just the way i would do it, some plasterers like to skim the sand and cement once it has set but not dried out as ther will not be much suction which will make skimming easier but what trends to happen is it shrinks when it drys out and this will crack the skim. again this is only my opinion oh and in the guide i wrote you i said to rub the wall with a devil float when it had set to provide key but when working with sand and cement you will need to rub it up when it is very firm, once it has set it will be very hard to make a key in it.

ya clueless mate and a cowboy im a proper plasterer i can float rooms our to a square skim dot n dab render tyrolean dash floor screed rough cast the lot son ill learn u 1 day

haha your the one that was asking how to put coving up you silly little boy, dont you remember how stupid you made your self look last time when you were the best plasterer in the world

 

[mark1980]

Hi Kirk

Thanks for taking the time to post that guide.
I'll use 6mm ply cut outs and bed these approx 12 - 15mm off wall and infill with sand & cement backing.

Should this be built up with 2 s&c coats and how long do I leave, before skimming onto this?

I'll let you know how it turns out!

if it were me i would do it in too coats, scratch coat (let this dry and shrink then damp it down)
lay screeds and then top coat and let this dry out and shrink then damp this down before skimming.

NOTE. this is how i would do it with sand and cement, there are more ways that might be better or faster but this is just the way i would do it, some plasterers like to skim the sand and cement once it has set but not dried out as ther will not be much suction which will make skimming easier but what trends to happen is it shrinks when it drys out and this will crack the skim. again this is only my opinion oh and in the guide i wrote you i said to rub the wall with a devil float when it had set to provide key but when working with sand and cement you will need to rub it up when it is very firm, once it has set it will be very hard to make a key in it.

ya clueless mate and a cowboy im a proper plasterer i can float rooms our to a square skim dot n dab render tyrolean dash floor screed rough cast the lot son ill learn u 1 day

haha your the one that was asking how to put coving up you silly little boy, dont you remember how stupid you made your self look last time when you were the best plasterer in the world

i am the best son number 1 so shut ya fish lips

 

[kirk johnstone]

do you want me to beat you up?

 

[PhilPlaster]

You took the time out to help someone that came on here Kirk and asked a question. Plus it wasn't just bullet points.
My hat off to you mate.

 

[nickelarse]

Hi Kirk

Thanks for taking the time to post that guide.
I'll use 6mm ply cut outs and bed these approx 12 - 15mm off wall and infill with sand & cement backing.

Should this be built up with 2 s&c coats and how long do I leave, before skimming onto this?

I'll let you know how it turns out!

if it were me i would do it in too coats, scratch coat (let this dry and shrink then damp it down)
lay screeds and then top coat and let this dry out and shrink then damp this down before skimming.

NOTE. this is how i would do it with sand and cement, there are more ways that might be better or faster but this is just the way i would do it, some plasterers like to skim the sand and cement once it has set but not dried out as ther will not be much suction which will make skimming easier but what trends to happen is it shrinks when it drys out and this will crack the skim. again this is only my opinion oh and in the guide i wrote you i said to rub the wall with a devil float when it had set to provide key but when working with sand and cement you will need to rub it up when it is very firm, once it has set it will be very hard to make a key in it.

along with letting screeds go firm before u float a wall, this is another thing i dont get. why would u want to float a wall by scratching first? ie 2 coats?

 

[rockhardsolidplastering]

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha jesus christ almighty it just shows you when you think you ve met the biggest numpty in the world you aint theres always another

 

[kebab king]

Well done Kirk, hat off to you mate.

 

[kirk johnstone]

Hi Kirk

Thanks for taking the time to post that guide.
I'll use 6mm ply cut outs and bed these approx 12 - 15mm off wall and infill with sand & cement backing.

Should this be built up with 2 s&c coats and how long do I leave, before skimming onto this?

I'll let you know how it turns out!

if it were me i would do it in too coats, scratch coat (let this dry and shrink then damp it down)
lay screeds and then top coat and let this dry out and shrink then damp this down before skimming.

NOTE. this is how i would do it with sand and cement, there are more ways that might be better or faster but this is just the way i would do it, some plasterers like to skim the sand and cement once it has set but not dried out as ther will not be much suction which will make skimming easier but what trends to happen is it shrinks when it drys out and this will crack the skim. again this is only my opinion oh and in the guide i wrote you i said to rub the wall with a devil float when it had set to provide key but when working with sand and cement you will need to rub it up when it is very firm, once it has set it will be very hard to make a key in it.

along with letting screeds go firm before u float a wall, this is another thing i dont get. why would u want to float a wall by scratching first? ie 2 coats?

well he said that he needed to come out to 15mm so i think it would be best to do this in two coats also if you use a scratch coat you will get even suction, there is many ways to do alot of the aspects of plastering mate and this is just one hope this helps mate