Hi I'm relatively new to multi-finish just wants some good tips on smoothing it out better. Also what is best way to sand / prep multi-finish for painting? Additional Info: Solid Victorian Wall. I would also love to know how to do corners and little gaps with multi-finish too. Thanks.
Multi-Finish Smoothing Tips
- Thread starter PlasterV
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Ashleyscoob
Active Member
Get a plasterer in
Minh
Member
Flatten with light pressure keeping the trowel angle about an inch or so from the wall. This will allow you to scrape off any excess and produce a flat surface. One would normally assume that the angle should be no more than a finger width from the wall, but for diy-ers, you are not going to be able to lay the plaster on evenly to begin with, therefore a slightly open trowel with light pressure will help you to take off the excess.
There's no need to sand after the plaster has dried. Simply dilute your paint with 20% water: this will increase the working time and prevent it from drying out too quickly when it touches the bare plaster. Don't bother using a plaster primer/sealer.
For corners you need to use an angle bead. The typical type is a 3mm bead and after you've secured it in position, lay on your first coat almost flush with the metal edge. The first coat will pull in slightly and you lay the second coat flush with the bead. For small gaps you should use a midget trowel (normally 3" by 8") or a margin trowel which can be bought in several different widths.
Watch as many video's as you can. Good luck
There's no need to sand after the plaster has dried. Simply dilute your paint with 20% water: this will increase the working time and prevent it from drying out too quickly when it touches the bare plaster. Don't bother using a plaster primer/sealer.
For corners you need to use an angle bead. The typical type is a 3mm bead and after you've secured it in position, lay on your first coat almost flush with the metal edge. The first coat will pull in slightly and you lay the second coat flush with the bead. For small gaps you should use a midget trowel (normally 3" by 8") or a margin trowel which can be bought in several different widths.
Watch as many video's as you can. Good luck
Mike814
Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxWfXKEFGhI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZUfoLIVrJ8
Try these youtube vids. They may help
johniosaif
Private Member
A Darby is for flattening a floating coat, never use them my self, basically a straight edge with handles
Thanks! Just wondering that's all! Seems a useful bit of kit
johniosaif
Private Member
Some like them some don't, they can banana on you a bit, a straight edge is what I prefer ,
johniosaif
Private Member
For skimming, you could use a pipe trowel , problem is getting pva behind, best to,take off or get it taken off as if it goes wrong it can be a big problem,
raggles
Private Member
They are great tools once you get the hang of them which don't take long.
i didn't read all the posts derrrrr
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we only use a darby when we float ceilings.
a lot of plasterers did float carlite and now hardwall with them. you rule off, then rule in with a featheredge. with a darby, or h section you just rule in.
BobbyJack
Well-Known Member
used a derby for first time this week when rendering internally. It was ok, just different. As for the radiator you have choices. One of which wouldnt be leaving it on (not if you want it to look good anyway).
If the pipes are coming out of the loor and are poly (plastic) then just lift the rad off its bracket and lie it down flat on its front. Taking care not to damege the rad or the pipes. If the pipes are copper then turn off your rad at the valves at both ends then undo the nut on either end too. have a water catcher ready as there will be no water coming out of the pipes but your radiator will be full and will empty. Top tip if your doing this on your own, once valves are undone put your finger over just one of the valves and the water wont run out.
All this can be difficult on your own and is a lot easier with two people
If the pipes are coming out of the loor and are poly (plastic) then just lift the rad off its bracket and lie it down flat on its front. Taking care not to damege the rad or the pipes. If the pipes are copper then turn off your rad at the valves at both ends then undo the nut on either end too. have a water catcher ready as there will be no water coming out of the pipes but your radiator will be full and will empty. Top tip if your doing this on your own, once valves are undone put your finger over just one of the valves and the water wont run out.
All this can be difficult on your own and is a lot easier with two people
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