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level1plasterer

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Hi guys just wanted to ask you a question about rendering, my old render was all the way to the ground! so I have cut it above the damp proof course,
and now I just want confirmation of the following
1. that i should render below dpc first, 3:1 scratch coat, then finishing coat 4:1 and then I leave a gap the size of the bellcast bead.
2. I then place a PVC bellcast bead above the dpc and then render the gap between the existing render and the bead is this correct? and do I put the PVC bead on with screws and plugs into the block
3. Do I need to make sure all the old render is chipped of with an sds hammer so it's all the way back to the block or can I have it up and down like it is as long as the render bead is flat and secure. Thanks for your help in advance guys

here are some photos guys, the plan is to use the sds hammer to clear the block so it is flat, so the scratch and final coat, bond well.

hope these help


 
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have you found out where the dpc is? is it in the corse at the top of the air bricks? or is it where you have cut the tyrolean ?
 
I think fifty mm gap between the dpc and the plinth is acceptable,screw your bell basest along the line, nice and level ,sbr the area t o be plastered on top of it,the plinth bit ,you could fix a stop bead fifty mm under the dpc and render that too, I would sbr beforehand too..
 
the dpc is in the cement below the air brick i have just cut above the air brick as the bellcast bead is quite big and i didnt want to have to cut the render above the dpc a few times to let the bead fit, since this morning i have removed any excess cement on the blocks and it is now looking much better,
could you tell me if i should render from the ground, to just below the dpc first (or does this defeat the object of removing defective render) and then fit the bellcast bead and then render above? from above the bead to the existing render, furthermore could you clarify because the existing render has tyrolene finish should i just normal render now and later finish with tyrolene all the way around thanks.
if we decide to only put one bellcast bead above the dpc what are our options for below the dpc, could we just paint it or could we render upto just below the dpc
 
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johniosaif said:
I think fifty mm gap between the dpc and the plinth is acceptable,screw your bell basest along the line, nice and level ,sbr the area t o be plastered on top of it,the plinth bit ,you could fix a stop bead fifty mm under the dpc and render that too, I would sbr beforehand too..
Click to expand...

could you explain what the plinth is? sorry for the dumb questions , so i am going to drill 6mm holes at each mark on the bead and then screw the bead onto the wall above the dpc which is in the cement course below the air brick. so i was going to clear the cement course and attached to the block above it nice and level. thankyou that is a good idea about fixing a second stop bead below the dpc 50mm
 
if the brickwork plinth is in good condition then i would just paint it with a black bitumen paint.
i would render the bellcast and spray the tyrolean as soon as the bellcast has pulled in.
are you able to match the colour of the paint on the tyrolean? if not you may end up painting the whole external!
 
malc said:
if the brickwork plinth is in good condition then i would just paint it with a black bitumen paint.
i would render the bellcast and spray the tyrolean as soon as the bellcast has pulled in.
are you able to match the colour of the paint on the tyrolean? if not you may end up painting the whole external!
Click to expand...
Did you not see the photos Malcolm?
 
level1plasterer said:
ThAnks for the easy explanation, so it's skirting basically made of cement. So my block at the moment is bare shall I stick to painting it with black bitumen
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What has the surveyor specified, I think you can paint it with bitumen once you do not pass the fifty mm gap. Needs a good clean, you could render it leaving the gap.
 
malc said:
if the brickwork plinth is in good condition then i would just paint it with a black bitumen paint.
i would render the bellcast and spray the tyrolean as soon as the bellcast has pulled in.
are you able to match the colour of the paint on the tyrolean? if not you may end up painting the whole external!
Click to expand...

Great so I will paint the block with black bitumen once I have wire brushed it clean, then I will mount the bellcast bead with spirit level above dpc cement course, then I will render above the bead with two coats scratch and final (can I get away with ten mm in one coat) or will it all fall off. Next step is dry float it and then sponge it when nearly dry.once dried use Tyrol flicker to coat all bottom added render, go to bandq get outdoor paint match on external colour paint if not right paint whole wall and tyrolene bits where loose by removing old and spraying new
 
johniosaif said:
What has the surveyor specified, I think you can paint it with bitumen once you do not pass the fifty mm gap. Needs a good clean, you could render it leaving the gap.
Click to expand...
Surveyor specified "remove all defective render" when asked for more details said it should have a bellcast bead and not be rendered to ground all way round house as it is(was). So now I have removed the render to well above the dpc the gap is over 50mm from the ground to the dpc it's probably more like 100mm does this rule out the bitumen I tell u what I will get measuring tape out and take some photos tomorrow then u can advise what you think is best, guys I really appreciate your time and help thanks
 
Do as he says till it passes, then come back, I would for now , fit the bell cast ,finish as advised above, clean the bottom and leave it alone, then get him back and ask from this point. Best of luck...
 
spunky said:
Who asked for a 50mn gap between the bellcast and the plinth?
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A surveyor on a job of ours, they would not pass it otherwise, that's a minimum , it does not make sense to me either, I understand the dpc should not be breached but I expected a bell cast would solve this, the surveyor prefers plinth not to be rendered At all.odd if its ugly background, ok if its neat brickwork.
 
Yeah would look shite on conkers!, a good tip I heard of here was render to the bellcast then mastic the joint at the back on the underside of the bead then render the plinth
 
spunky said:
Yeah would look shite on conkers!, a good tip I heard of here was render to the bellcast then mastic the joint at the back on the underside of the bead then render the plinth
Click to expand...
Yes I heard that too but you need a surveyor to draw it up as proof of it working , our word means nothing, the fifty mm gap was brought up by the people who designed the build, I agree with how it would look..
 
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