Monorex as a scratch coat

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Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Imagine you have a wall to do in Monorex at 15mm thick and it can be done on microgobetis. Two passes with mesh embedded. The wall is big so you prefer to do 1 pass, embed mesh spray 2-3mm on top and scratch then some other day put on the second pass at say min 7mm minimum finished thickness would this work.

It would be the whole wall as I understand about different density's giving different drying out colours.
 

owls

Private Member
I've done it once or twice, when we've been rained on and abandoned it half way through, if its a stand alone panel you might be ok but next to another there might be a shade issue once dried as you say, you could always put a cup full of lanko to stabalize it, in your first pass.
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
I've done it once or twice, when we've been rained on and abandoned it half way through, if its a stand alone panel you might be ok but next to another there might be a shade issue once dried as you say, you could always put a cup full of lanko to stabalize it, in your first pass.

Thanks for that Owls. It is a long wall which I can break into 3 with expansion beads so I may yet be able to do in one go.

There is a price issue on this job, they want a cheaper option so I am thinking of ways to avoid the labour time of hand applying rend-aid or C+G although C+G is sprayable it is minty at £11 + vat. Monorex as scratch will be cheaper.

C+G Is Envirowalls base coat but nice gear and polymer modified. Like soft rubber to rub though as a flat render.
 

owls

Private Member
isn't there price costraints on every job :rolleyes)
depends on the substrate I guess ,but instead of rend aid etc, add lanko to your first pass of monorex at 5mm to something like 80/20 water or so,
then apply a straight 10mm of monorex. that will give you plenty to avoid any ghosting, monorex is around 9 quid a bag from somewhere near you,I aint adverting them on here so pm me if you want.
I did a project last year at copt hewick hall near Ripon, on garden walls, it was over a 1000 linear metre I did the above and saved a fortune not backing it off first.
 
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Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
isn't there price costraints on every job :rolleyes)
depends on the substrate I guess ,but instead of rend aid etc, add lanko to your first pass of monorex at 5mm to something like 80/20 water or so,
then apply a straight 10mm of monorex. that will give you plenty to avoid any ghosting, monorex is around 9 quid a bag from somewhere near you,I aint adverting them on here so pm me if you want.
I did a project last year at copt hewick hall near Ripon, on garden walls, it was over a 1000 linear metre I did the above and saved a fortune not backing it off first.

Thanks Owls. The problem with adding the Lanko is putting it through the water pump as discussed recently. My pump is the AV1000 with a pressure switch fitted. Maybe if the water barrel is on the top lift and there is enough head pressure?
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
Rigs do you even need a prep ? What's the substrate.
Can't you just spray your Rex in two passes in one day ?
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Rigs do you even need a prep ? What's the substrate.
Can't you just spray your Rex in two passes in one day ?

Some parts are block some common brick some Marshallite stone. A 60's house with various extensions done over time.
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
Monorex can be used as a scratch coat. I think it even says on the bag.

Adhesion should be fine on commons.
Anything like Accrington, Cheshire red, farmhouse, staff blues or engineering brick I would stay with pre rend
 

xyzplasterer

New Member
When you say scratch coat, do you scratch it with a comb or use a serrated rule?

and do you need to dampen it or anything if you top it after leaving a week for example?
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
When you say scratch coat, do you scratch it with a comb or use a serrated rule?

and do you need to dampen it or anything if you top it after leaving a week for example?

Scratched with a comb.

i would think it is already waterproofed so wetting down would not be needed.
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
It hangs reasonably well without wetting as long as there is a decent coat going g on. Wetting it gently might help. Don't soak it tho.
 

owls

Private Member
get your first pass flat, then your reducing your chances of getting any halos when you cut back.
 

Jrend

Active Member
Mix it in a bucket first then put it through the ritmo with the water turned off then you wont have the problem of latex going through the water pump.

Thanks Owls. The problem with adding the Lanko is putting it through the water pump as discussed recently. My pump is the AV1000 with a pressure switch fitted. Maybe if the water barrel is on the top lift and there is enough head pressure?
 
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