Mono question
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southernmonkey
Private Member
Either rendered over damp blocks or applied to thin
plasterjfe
Private Member
no because the drying out process has alot to do with how the finished colour will look so the blocks that hold different levels of damp than the mortar joints will affect the process and leave a colour issue (sometimes) like the lads say its more likely on to thin a coverage, even suction is what you need there
simplybesty
Private Member
3 weeks ago would be right in the cold spell so they shouldnt even be doing it.
richardbrown
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funny that I saw 2 new build houses today that were ghosting but the mono was wet cause it was pissisng down .....looks fine in the dry
a.d.plastering
New Member
its defenetly been put on 2 thin :-0
goody
Private Member
10mm beads?? Getting bit tired of mono these days....it really needs painting as anything that changes colour when wet is gonna get soiled. it's a good system if painted with nano gear. mono is tough as old boots and can be laid on in less than perfect conditions and just choose a fine day to paint the whole house afterwards. Anybody know the cheapest mono available to keep costs down if you were to spec paint?? Not ecorend thoug
.............thinking about it, a scratched basecoat in one coat then painted would prob do yeah??
.............thinking about it, a scratched basecoat in one coat then painted would prob do yeah??
plasterjfe
Private Member
use a polymer base goody (summit like parmurex) finish it the same and let em pait it, done that before
simplybesty
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10mm beads?? Getting bit tired of mono these days....it really needs painting as anything that changes colour when wet is gonna get soiled. it's a good system if painted with nano gear. mono is tough as old boots and can be laid on in less than perfect conditions and just choose a fine day to paint the whole house afterwards. Anybody know the cheapest mono available to keep costs down if you were to spec paint?? Not ecorend thoug
If your going to do that Darren then I would spray cpi general render, about £3.60 a bag. scrap back and paint.
goody
Private Member
does cpi scrape well then? could you spray cpi the same as parex and shave back in one go? have used a bit of that gear now but never scraped it, ive only ever scraped the bagged basecoats like sas float, primo baserend in one coat for topping with acrylic etc. They do look lush when freshly scraped and all dark but look a bit sheit when dry
simplybesty
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yes mate, it scraps nice,
plasterjfe
Private Member
Agreed.
as does parmurex etc it looks a finer texture than monocolour also I recon
goody
Private Member
anybody got any pics of the said painted scratched basecoat? hmmm what would scratched basecoat with a good nano paint come in at per/m over normal mono?? the basecoat's cheaper(just) but i suppose you could load up on this as there's no colour issues(grey). The paint cost and labour to apply would be on top of course.......but this could be made in part with the advantages of getting on in less than perfect weather(without the risk of blockwork staining etc showing up or the odd rained on bit bringing a bit of limebloom on the drips etc) as it all gets painted uniform on one fine day. Any thoughts bechgyn??
simplybesty
Private Member
also , if your scrapping it you can spray it in one coat.
plasterjfe
Private Member
you wanna render to receive paint yeah? instead of paying for monocolour buy straight render like parmurex as i prefer or cpi as simps is recommended and just finish it of the same like mono (or smooth, up to you) then paint over
plasterjfe
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well its pref innit merl love. I think it looks ok people have asked for it so they get what they want suppose
plasterjfe
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well merl you did sound shitty and ive told danny of you big bully.
they could always give it a try an if no happy chuck th sponge float over it to smooth it off again
they could always give it a try an if no happy chuck th sponge float over it to smooth it off again
goody
Private Member
Basically I'm going off mono because it gets dirty too quickly. Adding paint on top solves the maintenance issue but the added cost might be prohibitive for most. Just thinking of ways to offer the same but at a reduced price hence the use of a grey base coat to save money but still achieve a coloured scratched finish that will stay looking new.
Saying that though the most attractive thing IMO with mono is the stone quality of it which is lost when painted. Maybe something as simple as a clear sealer is all it needs. You'd even see where you'd been as the painted areas would turn dark helping you avoid misses until it dries. Next time it rains it wouldn't go dark and subsequently stay clean?
Saying that though the most attractive thing IMO with mono is the stone quality of it which is lost when painted. Maybe something as simple as a clear sealer is all it needs. You'd even see where you'd been as the painted areas would turn dark helping you avoid misses until it dries. Next time it rains it wouldn't go dark and subsequently stay clean?
goody
Private Member
It's the fact that it gets wet and encourages algae and mildew unlike something that stays dry. Being flat and cream in colour unlike dash etc just highlights the dirt. Fined down sand & cement unpainted gets dirty quickly too so imagine if that was naturally ivory in colour too it would suffer the same issues. It's the paint that makes the difference
simplybesty
Private Member
i think the paint plus laour would cost a lot more and then theres the drying time before you can paint.
ignore merlin, he's a grumpy b*****d at best of times. :RpS_laugh:
ignore merlin, he's a grumpy b*****d at best of times. :RpS_laugh:
merlin
Private Member
yeah ,one coat of paint too, done ashlar as well ,looks very poor now!
Render Systems
Private Member
i always put lanko latex into first pass this stops any ghosting
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