Chris W said:so if you scratch at 3:1...
what do you float out at? ???
Chris W said:if you use less cement but more waterproofer on a damp job is it more likely to be less or more waterproof? ALL DEPENDS MATE, LABEL USUALLY STATE'S MIX RATIO
what does actually happen if you put old mix back in the mixer? CONTAMINATES THE MIX AND MAKES IT WEAKER
if you use a 4:1 scratch coat and a 3:1 float coat which one will fall off first? PROBABLY NETHER AS LONG AS YOU KEY IT PROPERLY... WAVY DEEP SCRATCHES
what happens if you use soft sand for a scratch coat and sharp sand for a float coat? NOT MUCH AS-LONG AS ITS WELL KEYED, SHARP SAND COMPACTS BETTER SO IT GIVES YOU A STRONGER MORE SOLID FINISH
what happens if you put render on 30mm thick in one go? ALL SAND AND CEMENT SHRINKS WHEN IT DRIES OUT, WITH THINNER COATS THERE IS LESS CHANCE OF SHRINKAGE CRACKS
why do damp companies say you shouldnt paint a newly plastered wall with silk paint even though its had 'waterproofer' in it and its been allowed to dry for 3 weeks? PROBABLY JUST AN EXTRA PRECAUTION INCASE THER IS ANY MORE MOISTURE TO COME OUT OF THE WALL, ASS SILK PAINT IS WATERPROOF THE MOISTURE LEAVING THE WALL MIGHT CAUSE IT TO BUBBLE OFF, PERSONALLY I DONT LIKE TO SEE ANY FRESH PLASTER PAINTED WITH SILK AS IT SEEMS TO SIT LIKE A SKIN ON THE FINISH RATHER THAN SOAKING IN
whats the difference between retarder and waterproofer? RETARDER GOES IN THE MIX AND SLOWS THE SET DOWN, WATERPROOFER WONT SLOW IT DOWN BUT IF PUT IN THE SCRATCH COAT WILL SLOW DOWN THE SUCTION GIVING YOU MORE TIME TO WORK THE TOP COAT
whats the difference between waterproofer from jewsons and waterproofer from say, sovereign chemicals or triton? NOT MUCH
what happens if you add frostproofer to a mix? IT WONT FREEZE, ITS LIKE ANTIFREEZE IN YOUR CAR
is it possible to skim render the same day? YEP BUT WHEN RENDER DRIES IT SLIGHTLY SHRINKS SO GOOD CHANCE SKIM WILL CRACK ALL OVER
does render still stay 'green' for a while even if you use orange sand? YES
carlos said:Thank you church.
Chris I agree with what your saying but your answering a question I have'nt asked.
I just want to know what I should be doing when I render in the future regardless to
what I have done in the past.
spunky said:what i i dont get is why some people say you dont need waterproofer s/c is waterproof anyway or is until its painted with a good masonry paint ???............and if it is why does it suck the life out of skim if you leave it a week?
spongebob said:Kirk just out of intrest would you render the outside of a house with your 3;1 or just inside before skimming ?
kirk johnstone said:spongebob said:Kirk just out of intrest would you render the outside of a house with your 3;1 or just inside before skimming ?
both matekirk if ouside on thermos what would you use then smarty pants
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pwi said:Kirk not having a go mate but if you even considered puting a 3x1 over thermos or faced brick or common brick you will have probs the whole point of rendering is that it should get weaker now a concrete block you may get away with 3x1 maybe but thermos are about 7x1 maybe more .what a lot of guys don't understand is that you can't just throw any old mix on the wall you have to establish what it is your going on to then judge from there .I only say this to help you try make the correct decision before you throw 3x1 in the mixer again not having ago just tryin to help
pwi said:100 percent but that's the joints what if you go over an old week faced brick and your mix is now stronger than the brick its self ,I've gone to see a lot of jobs where clients say the render is (french word)ed when you start to chop of there is lumps of brick coming away .and just for interest a thermo block is almost 75 percent air inch depth joints and 3x1 aint going to hold that so somtimes weaker mix does help
pwi said:We do loads of thermos out side mostley extensions as they are good for insulaton purposes. And we also use dri wall on them to and I can assure you if you tried to take it of you would take a chunck of block with it ,any way kirk I'm not going to go on about it
essexandy said:Kirk every time you put plasticiser in your mix you are putting air in the sand & cement.
Board adhesive onto blocks doesn't cover the whole wall so it tensile strength won't cause any problems unlike when strong render goes onto soft bricks and causes the problem described by pwi.
I know you've looked at my website Kirk, some of those banded renders are on thermalite/celcon blocks, some not far from me have been done for 15 years now and haven't got a single crack on them, first coat 6:1 topcoat 9:2:1 8)