metal studs, fixing to upper & lower channels

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kerniki

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what do you use?

first time putting up some metal stud walls & was curious as to what to use to fix the studs to the channels seeing as it has to be reasonable flush for plasterboard to fix to and the self drilling screws i've used in the past have only been the round head variety, is there a special type of self drilling screw or something?? or do you just use the normal plasterboard screws that are sold for metal fixing & just use them metal > metal
metal studs, fixing to upper & lower channels


cheers for any help
 
As long as the top and bottom rail are fixed securely you won't need to fix screws through the uprights. Once you screw through the boards the uprights have no lateral movement :RpS_thumbup:
 
ferk the not fixing them method :eek: there's no way i'd rely on plasterboard to stop lateral movement, these walls are 50mm thick & being used to line / insulate a stone built building so are one sided, i guess if clad both sides i might try but even that i'd question.

thx for the screw & crimping suggestion Brian, i'll look into it....
 
kerniki said:
ferk the not fixing them method :eek: there's no way i'd rely on plasterboard to stop lateral movement, these walls are 50mm thick & being used to line / insulate a stone built building so are one sided, i guess if clad both sides i might try but even that i'd question.

thx for the screw & crimping suggestion Brian, i'll look into it....
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Been on a job where the spec was not to fix the studs so when there was movement it could move, also make sure you stagger both sides of the boards to give the wall strength.
 
If your only boarding one side, I would put a batten or stud across the length of the wall about 1/2 way up, and fix that to the stone wall at least every 3ft so you take the flex out the wall, also for extra strength don't hang the boards vertically, brick bond them horizontally.

Also set your studs at 400 centres
 
BrianS said:
Doing it that way, make sure you board one side before the sparks and plumbers come in an do they're worst
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Fair comment Brian :RpS_thumbup:

kerniki said:
ferk the not fixing them method :eek: there's no way i'd rely on plasterboard to stop lateral movement, these walls are 50mm thick & being used to line / insulate a stone built building so are one sided, i guess if clad both sides i might try but even that i'd question.

thx for the screw & crimping suggestion Brian, i'll look into it....
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You wouldn't be - as long as you screw through the board into the rail/stud junction. It's only the screw thread that is nipping it together mate, same as if you screw before boarding :RpS_wink:
 
ah ok, thats not how it sounded first off, going through the plasterboard, stud & channel makes more sense :) i'm going to our local diy store tomorrow and they seem to stock the edma crimper so think i'll get one as i have a fair bit to do, converted my Makita 750 to a 550 so hoping to use that for fixing boards, they do plaster > metal for autofeed I take it? I've only used if for decking so far...
 
kerniki said:
ferk the not fixing them method :eek: there's no way i'd rely on plasterboard to stop lateral movement, these walls are 50mm thick & being used to line / insulate a stone built building so are one sided, i guess if clad both sides i might try but even that i'd question.

thx for the screw & crimping suggestion Brian, i'll look into it....
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If you ever do jumbo stud, x metres tall and upwards with a deflection head, get used to it, cos stud and track aren't fixed together, purposely.
Last one I did was only 6 metres tall and about 15metres long with a a 35mm deflection head
 
Crimpers are expensive also on long runs a lot of boards are a tad small or bigger so board can creep which is agg if they re crimped, my son does this for a living and nothing else and never fixes studs to channel or head track all floating and fixed through the board.
 
Why would you pre fix the studs? Like flynny al and Andy have said You're going to screw the top corners anyway which will go all the way through and if for some reason somethings out of level/square you can move the studs to suit as you go
 
Only have to crimp/screw studs if your not boarding one side straight away, otherwise sparks and plumbers will come along, move studs, put fixings between studs not in position, then when you come to board, you can't put the studs where they need to be

Spent 12yrs just putting up metal stud partitions on the big house bashing sites, if I hadn't crimped them, they would of been all over the place, including being chucked out the window, stacked in the corner,by plumbers and sparks
 
Fair enough mate all our work is office, comercial stuff so one side is always boarded first before the idiots turn up.
 
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